1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

@Mr.bee got a honda wheel with a tire on it from the junkyard and they drilled a hole in the tire, because it was too old for them to legally sell the tire. Luckily he just wanted the wheel.

 

I still use my 22 year old spare. I got around the slow leak by buying a compressor from HF.

 

Dude, is this thing running yet or what?!

 

I had no choice when this happened, and as you'll see, I was riding on only 4 lug nuts. If you scroll down a couple replies from that post, you'll see the original tire when it finally dried, in all its cracked up glory. (I drove home @ 25mph, thankfully it was the rear wheel and home was 3mi away)

But like @KNABORES, I'm an OCD MFer, and I took a second to spray everything down with Brakleen while I was in there. Tag to @KTM_AJ421 because ... well, a lot of us have been there at some point.

 

I did have to put everything back together and drive 2 feet forward to get the stud in a spot to put it in because at the spot it ended up the stud was directly behind the brake cylinder

experience comes from mistakes right?

 

Murphy's Law applies here...

 

my 18 yr old spare looks just like yours except it’s covered in asphalt from when the po must have driven through a newly paved road. That shit is everywhere, the fender liners all of the control arms I’ve been chiseling that stuff for months. At least the frame and everything was spotless. The guys at discount tire and the dealership asked me if I would sell my truck. No way man haha

 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C5FJunFLbsn/?igsh=MWg5aDQ5bmJqOXBpMg==

 

That part didn't fix my AC so I called someone out. The condenser wont run because all the refrigerant leaked out. They will have to come back and do a leak down test to find the leak. Depending on the location, could be looking at anywhere from $3k to a whole new system. It's an 8 year old unit so it's a hard call whether or not it makes sense to replace a coil for $3k or the entire unit. He said we could leave the furnace since they tend to last longer. Looking at over $10k to replace it the inside and outside units.

Brutal timing as we're in the middle of our master bath remodel. I have a feeling we may have to cancel our Moab trip depending on the cost.

 

Damn that sucks bud

 

yup - you ruined how I think.
Well no, not how I think - more how I speak. Water heaters are just old & dowdy to me now.

 

I always wore 2 pair of socks in my boots. First pair to wick away moisture, 2nd pair for padding/comfort.
Also I'd run minimum of 2 pair of boots so they have at least 1 day off between wearings.
Magnum used to be my go to boot brand, but I don't think they're what they used to be since the pandemic.

 

Haha, nope. In my excuse, I live really far away from the truck. We close on a house with a 2-car garage next week. Plan is to tow it to my new garage this summer and do things right or fly you to San Antonio so you can do it right.

 

I know it's normal, but I hate seeing contractors drill pans into the studs, they make overhanging retention clips to hold the lip of the basin in, and they'll sit flush behind the backer board, but ... whatever. It's what everyone does, and I disagree with it, @shifty` isn't a contractor, so ...

If they're doing a tiled-in inset box on the back wall as it appears you'll be getting, make sure they (A) use negative slope on the shelf area, so water doesn't puddle at the back it and (B) completely tape/seal any seams in the backer board and (C) ideally, completely cover the taped/seal backer with a couple coats of a product like RedGard to waterproof it. This (RedGard specifically) is just added insurance for you, the homeowner, so you don't have really fucking expensive repairs later. This is one of those times when you want to spend the extra money now to avoid paying in money later.

If you plan to flip this in 5 years, I'd say "forgetaboutit", but if you intend to be there in 10 ... spend the extra couple hundo on a couple coats of some stuff like RedGard to do this right. And honestly, now the hole is in the pan from the bolt heads, if you brush it over with RedGard or similar waterproofing, it should be fine as long as this isn't upstairs, thus prone to settling that can shift the fastener and break the waterproof seal.

Also, make sure they pop in heavy-mil waterproof barrier over that insulation, and secure the barrier behind the edge of the basin lip. Even if they're putting hardybacker up. Even if the hardybacker is covered in 3 coats of RedGard. Fuzzy substrate like fiberglass combined with humidity is black mold waiting to happen. It's fine if they simply staple it in on the vertical edges. Just having a moisture barrier over the insulation is plenty.

/soapbox-rant

(This is why I don't like letting people work on my house ... contractors only give a fuck if THEY are the ones that have to fix shit in 10 years....)

 

This one is interesting to me. Side curtains, red with intact clear coat. But look at that rear bumper, what is that? Even has step inserts on the corners.

Wish they'd explain the salvage title - it kinda matters.

 

Pop the line off the distributor/points, purge the gas tank and lines, pour some Seafoam high-mile into the carb bowl and turn it over for 4-5 seconds, then let it sit overnight. Wake up the next morning, put 5gal tank of gas in it and teh remainder of the Seafoam, reattach the distro cable, and fire it up. Let it run for 5-10 minutes. You should be good to go. I'll be surprised if it doesn't fire right up.

Be careful putting ethanol gas in it if the truck is gonna sit for long periods of time.

 

My answer is always - Bored Farmer.
They got the spacing a little wrong - going to have to try again next year, but I'd bet with a different pattern.

 

If they explained the salvage title, a wise person probably wouldn't buy it. The clearcoat is intact b/c it's a full repaint, and they're lipsticking the pig. Who knows what's under all that. Could be a rollover.

I love the bumper, and I'd be tempted to by it if I knew what it was. The fact it's working with factory tow receiver and receptacle is tempting.

 

Dude I was looking for feedback on the AC, not the remodel. This guy is a pro and has gone above and beyond what most would do. He's been awesome to work with. Wedi waterproofing will be going up today in the shower. He's doing stuff for us like replace the electrical switches without us asking or charging extra. He has a ton of really positive reviews online. It's just him and his wife doing most of the work.

Also, I judge a guy by his work truck. Both is truck and trailer are in great shape. All the tools in his trailer are neatly organized.

 

So used tissues during allergy season are company resources? Where does one get the no DNA testing certificate - H.R.?
One needs to know if they'll be adjusting your insurance co-pay based on what they find after testing the used tissue resource.

 

I think I see rust on the bed bolts. Wasn't expecting that assuming the truck for sale in CO is a CO truck - but that's bad logic.
Fortunately, it's far away, keeps me from having to seriously consider it with all that faux wood & leather.
IIRC, out of state rebuilt title means extra hassle & inspections to register it in CT (Central Tennesse).

 

That's cool, as long as he's taking care of it. Even pros take shortcuts, so I'm tossing out some stuff to watch out for...

On the HVAC, don't be surprised if they tell you the leak is in the evap coil. BITD when coils were all copper, they'd last for goddamn ever. Nowadays, with aluminum in everything, it eventually perforates, and leaks out. When they pump dye in it, they should look in the coil housing that's attached under/over/beside the air handler, don't be surprised if they find dye spatter in there. Hope it's not the case though because replacing evap coil around here in ATL is $2k-3k endeavor and typically used for an upsell. (edit: Of a whole new air handler/full system)

Our house just rolled over year 21. We finally decided to HVAC all three levels with two units, one setup w/dual-zone dampers for the main floor and basement, a dedicated unit for upstairs bedrooms since it tends to run hotter up there. $18k for everything, including the logic board for the damper system. Was not fun, but went with bulletproof equipment that should last 15-20 years with minimal service.

 

So that box isn't for a large screen tv in the shower? First thing I thought.

 

While scouring the internet trying to find that, I ran across this. I've been strongly thinking about rolling back to Limited non-chromeness lately ... if I'd have realized I could get into something at this price point, shipped, I'd have probably done it.

Sadly, replacement plastics cost almost as much as the bumper, it's almost $100 just for a replacement OEM licensee plate insert, side cover pieces are only $30ish

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That's what I'm afraid of. Would you spend $3-5k to repair an 8 year old unit or bite the bullet and replace it? Best case, it's a leak in one of the copper lines. That will cost me around $1,300 to repair, and recharge. The refrigerant alone is $420.

 

You’d put an aftermarket bumper on your truck? Yikes!

 

Schoedinger's Spare.