Looking for dyno results for TRD air intake

I haven't been able to find dyno results for the TRD air intake. I was wondering if anyone has a comparison dyno from the stock air box, unmodded, to the TRD air intake. A dyno comparison of all three would be nice.

I have read a lot of threads that say the SABM is the best way to go and that most other aftermarket intakes cause you to lose power. I researched K&N and they boast a gain of about 9 HP and 14 ft/lbs of torque. My problem is that I live in California. A factory part like the TRD air intake would not raise any eyebrows but lord have mercy on you if they catch you with anything that isn't CARB-compliant. Needless to say, I am a little hesitant to go with the K&N intake so I am looking for some dyno results.

 

Purely cosmetic.

 

Just do a drop in air filter

 

The stock box is already a cold air intake. You don't gain anything changing it, even to the TRD box.

Also, sounds like you need to move or band together to change the stupidity in CA.

 

I have been wanting to move out of this overbearing state for a long time.

 

aFe posts dyno results for their cold air intakes. They're a good company.

 

I think dyno results that show a small difference are complete BS. The test setups aren't accurate enough to show a true scientific repeatable change. I have a friend that was a lead engineer at one of the big exhaust companies and he said they would claim the power improvement of an exhaust with whatever dyno run (once) gave the highest value, and just as often the runs would make less power. But one run said a 9hp increase so let's claim that even though it isn't repeatable!

And let's be real, a power difference that small isn't noticeable. Biggest change would be how the intake noise sounds so it SOUNDS FASTER. I wouldn't base any stock replacement intake purchase on anything except looks.

 

aFe provides all of the ambient conditions during the tests in their dynos: time, elevation, humidity, temp, fuel, gearing, etc…they control for just about every variable you can.
Combustion is air + fuel + spark.
There’s no doubt that more air and cooler (more dense) air aids in more efficient combustion.

 

Skip the airbox mods and racing filters, no good for the long haul.

 

With one exception. The TRD velocity stack/ air flow accelerator changes the sound in a subtle but pleasing way, is dirt cheap, and you can keep factory filtration

 

This is the only air intake that will affect a dyno

 

1900 or Harrop?

I’m planning for a Harrop soon. Definitely intent on feeding it more, colder air too.

 

Harrop. 2650
1900's and all Magnuson's are upside down.

or maybe...since the Harrop is Australian...mine is upside down.


ponderous.

 

Gold intakes work lol

 

Do you know if you went to a 4.5 inch intake would it increase boost or would that just be purely the pulley size ?

 

You'd gain slightly but not much. I'm moving from a 4.5" to 5" and also from the 84mm rcf to 103mm LS throttle body. I'm expecting to gain some.

 

do you know if the magnuson tsv2650 kit comes with a 4.5 inch ? I noticed on that kit it does come with a airbox but I can’t tell if it’s any bigger then the stock airbox from the factory.

yeah I was looking at that RCF TB but I didn’t like the fact you had to hallow out that snout.

 

The intake tube is bigger by ~0.5", but it's not to make more power but to keep the MAF sensor within it's voltage range.

Performance per dollar a pulley can't be beat. That's not to say other stuff doesn't have its place, but I would argue are more of supporting modifications as opposed to purely chasing power like the pulley is for.

 

And I don't believe now you need to port the inlet of the 2650 to match better.

 

oh okay. So I could probably move up to that RCF throttle body without having to modify?

 

Yes, you will need a throttle body spacer from @snivilous and why not throw a pulley on it also.

 

Prospeed has a spacer. Not worth it for me to machine one when someone else offers one

 

Is there's now available for the new maggy 2650?

 

can you go to a 76mm without adjusting the injectors for that blower ? I was thinking I would just adjust pulley and the tb.

 

so idk because on the website it just shows a 1900.

 

I don't know if you saw it or not but you've got some coolant crusties there you gotta take care of.

 

I'd assume it's the same spacer since they both use the tundra bolt pattern and both have a 90mm intake size.

I'm tagging @carn_dogg a lot since him and I went through this exact same thing a few weeks ago. The stock injectors were running out at 5000rpm, so yes I would say injectors are needed with the 76mm (and subsequently a tune to make the injectors work). The 76mm gave him a ~50% increase in boost so the truck is making a lot more power. That's with a stock throttle body. Magnuson kit with the 76mm and 650cc injectors and he's at 12psi.

 

that’s crazy! 5 pounds of boost just swapping injectors and a pulley… that’s hawt.

 

good eye.

It hasn’t gotten any worse since I originally had the darn thing installed

yes, I’m lazy

 

is that just a gasket leaking or why is coolant coming out of that area ?