Project Farm oil testing

I know he's no professional but it's interesting to see the wear test results.

https://youtu.be/xtSwaF2evTU?si=dca_ynEe43yDx6_r

 

He does better science that most "real scientists".
He asks a question, designs an experiment/test, attempts to control variables, admits when variables are not controlled, attempts to control any personal bias, discloses any monetary sources, publishes his complete procedures, repeats some experiments/tests to account for new information or new products (when requested by viewers).
Consider that the repeatability of all experiments/studies in "professional" sciences publications is less than 50% making a literal coin flip more dependable than what is published in the journals.

 

Agreed. His tests are why I switched oil to Costco's Kirkland brand. The performance is comparable to bigger name brand motor oils with a much more affordable cost.

 

I just thought of something in this video that imI really question. He cooks the oils at 400 degrees. Why? Our engines don’t run at 400. Doesn’t that cooking possibly destroy the viscosity additives in the thin oil

 

I believe it's mostly to accelerate the "aging" of the oil and the oil does see temps like that around the piston rings.

 

When I need a specific tool for something, I usually go to his vids and look and compare to similar tools. Main reason I have a mix of colorful tools all over my garage.

 

Ours don't but some air cooled engines certainly do (motorcycles, aircraft, etc.).

Dan

 

Even if this were true, all the oils he tests are subjected to the same criteria. So, the effect (400 deg cook) is equal as far as comparisons between the oils is concerned.

 

One of my favorite videos is him running a lawnmower on 100% Seafoam

 

This guy is awesome. I love his content

 

Project Farm - OEM OW-20 Oils vs Mobil 1

(Toyota, Honda, AcDelco, Motorcraft, Mopar)

Surprising result for Toyota Oil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k60C6WYyvtU

 

Every soul that preaches about how awesome Toyota oil is needs to watch that.

And convince me that what I just watched is not what I just watched

I thought Toyota had far more molybdenum

guess not

 

That's what a service advisor tried to tell me the Toyota factory "break in oil" had a lot of...and why it should be left in until 10k miles...has anyone here sent a sample of their factory fill oil to Blackstone for testing?

 

yeah, I have never used Toyota Oil myself.
I assume my 2018 Tundra had Toyota oil from the factory.
My dealer back when it was under warranty, and they did the oil changes told me they use Shell.
So the dealers use what they want.
I now use Mobil on both my Toyotas, my 993 uses Castrol.
The Subaru dealer that just did the last oil change on my wifes Outback still under warranty uses Castrol.
I do use OEM oils on my Honda and Yamaha outboards and ATV.

 

Project Farm and The Motor Oil Geek have convinced me the best oil for the $ off the shelf is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum...yes Amsoil is a hair better but 2x the $. In the real world frequent changes are more important than the absolute best test results...still disappointed that Toyota oil is probably no better than Supertech or Kirkland. What interests me is 5w20 in the low viscosity Project Farm Pennzoil shootout has nearly the same film strength as 5w30 with 0w16 and 0w20 trailing by a good measure. I have 1 more freebie at Toyota and about 2000 miles on recent dealer oil change...tempted to short change them with PUP.

 

There are more than a few on bobistheoilguy site

yes they generally have higher moly.

anyone that recommends 10k intervals is …. Well….not working with the same information set that I am

and don’t start quoting the 1million mile tundra. He was all hwy. all day. Everyday

Mobil 1 and Kirklands both start breaking down around 5k. This is per blackstone

look, you can ride both of those oils all the way down to a 1 tbn. But why?


After 5k, Mobil 1 and Kirkland are both at ~4.5 tbn. So I change it

and if yall get a blackstone, please get a tbn test. It tells you how much life the oil has left

toyota 5.7’s are generally easy on oil, so there is barely a reason to use “super” oils. You know who you are.

 

Agreed on PUP

I can only find it on Amazon.

nobody carries it in stock around here

 

I ordered 3 5 quart bottles for $80 of 5w30 PUP from Amazon last year...it's gone up...Advance Auto in my area NJ stocks PUP at $40 for 5 quarts, $43 with a decent filter but you need 7 quarts for the 3.5tt

 

Walmart has 5qt jugs of PUP for $29 on the shelf.

 

Lucky you in my area you can get Pennzoil Platinum for $27 but no Ultra unless you order it in

 

Platinum is only $24 most of the time here.

 

What about elapsed time...did blackstone test this ? I use my truck for utility so I don't get near the mileage limits. Its not my daily driver. I remember a project farm test on Oil age (I will need to dig for it) but his findings were modern synthetic oils do not lose their properties when not used.

my 993 takes 10+ ...... 8^(

 

NJ is higher due to "northeast tax" lol...think about this as far as time in the engine for say a year...transmission fluid is also an oil...every manufacturer now says its "lifetime no changes needed under normal conditions" but severe service every 30k...if it only lasted a couple of years there would be dead cars everywhere...bottom line it's not so much time as conditions...if all you do is go 2 miles to work or store you will build up moisture, acids and fuel from not fully warming up often enough or a lot of towing in hilly areas getting really hot under load-so you need short changes..if you take 100 mile highway cruises lightly loaded all the time you can stretch intervals as that's generally easy on oil.

 

which one? There were Five "million mile tundras" if I recall, Two 4.7's. One 4.6. Two 5.7's - the OG 4.7 V8 million mile tundra guy Hotshotting Louisiana oil refineries has 900k on his replacement 5.7 and should hit a million this fall.

Either way of course you need lots of highway to hit a million miles. Anyway I agree with all your points. I've used PUP and M1 - all were great except when I used in turbocharged applications where consumption developed

 

I was 10 feet away from him at the Matt’s recovery off road games and didn’t get to say hi to him.

Love his Channel.

 

He heats to over 400 degrees to simulate the Noac? Volatility test which is over 500 degrees but standard coffee pot style or griddle hotplates can't get the oil to that temp. Oil up in the piston ring area is exposed to temperatures well above that, some burned off and the less the better...the reason we are seeing rings stuck from extended oil changes is even the best synthetics will build up deposits if not changed before the additive package deteriorates, increasing the rate of deposit formation...oil engineers agree that lower viscosity increases power up to the point that it compromises ring seal...what a lot of people don't realize is oil loses viscosity from shear, heat, and contaminants...0w20 can quickly become closer to 0w10...5w30...to 5w20...interesting to note that 5w20 is almost as good at wear protection as 5w30 and 0w16 holds its own for awhile due to extremely robust additive package.