2022 Tundra Suplemental Transmission Cooler?

There's already one there, or at least an attempt lol. If you look at the diagram, part # 32910 circled is the OEM cooler. I can't put my hands on one or even a picture, but based on what I see in my shop I can tell you it's not very big. Part # 32971 circled is the bypass valve/thermostat. There's not going to be a direct "bolt-on" cooler. To properly install an aftermarket cooler, you would need to bypass the whole system. Basically you would have to catch the input and output coming off the transmission and run new lines to an aftermarket cooler installed behind the grille. If you try and just bypass the cooler itself, you still have the thermostatic valve to contend with.

 

See posts 20 & 61, I've also provided a diagram for you. So by your statement, someone could say; engineers has given a tolerance for antifreeze and it's boiling point is between 225-300 degrees Fahrenheit (depending on how much water is mixed with it). So someone could infer, it's safe for my engine water temperature to run 225-300 degrees. Common sense isn't so common anymore, and while I'm not directing that statement at you, others could make an inference that it's safe to run their transmission at those temperatures. I have nothing to gain on these forums, I don't advertise my shop, offer to sell any services here nor do I care to, it's not my market (at least for another few years once these transmissions go out of warranty). I'm simply giving advice based upon years of experience and knowledge in automotive repair and more specifically transmission repair and rebuilding to help other fellow enthusiasts make their investment last longer.

 

exactly what we did on my mom's juke. Piggybacked off that cooler/warmer beehive junk and ran 2 coolers and kept the CVT happy. Still let the coolant warm up the fluid but cooled it before going back in....easily covered during winter months if so desired...no harm, no foul

 

So you purchased a 24 Tundra knowing it didn’t have a dedicated air to oil transmission cooler and they are experiencing similar transmission temps as the 2nd generation 2019-2021 models. Is it your intentions to add an air to oil cooler? Are you seeing premature failures of 2019-21 Tundras and recent years of Fords in your shop? Ford is doing the same thing even with there 3/4 ton trucks.
Please don’t get me wrong; I am also only trying to get accurate technical information to determine myself if I need to add a cooler to my 21.

 

??? If 32910 has an "input" and an "outlet" would the addition of a Hayden/TruCool btnw the two transfer points (inlet/outlet) (mounted in front of the radiator) work? Similar to what is done on the Gen3Taco?

 

Gen 3 has two coolers. One oil to coolant located in the traditional lower radiator tank spot, and then the second oil to coolant mentioned above. Adding even a medium sized oil to air unit in series with the other two would probably do wonders. If possible, mount it off to the side like the 07 - 10 trucks.

 

Will look into the 07-10 - anything similar to the Gen3Taco? Which was series application. Simple and very effective.

 

Gen 3 Tacos are similar, they have the oil to water in the radiator tank, and the oil to air mounted in front of the AC/radiator. Oil air was dropped for later Taco models.

 

Yep - my Gen3 Taco has the oem external tow package cooler - I added the Hayden in Series to the OEM oil / air. Hoping a solution for the Gen3Tundra which even with tow package does not have ATF (oil) to air cooler - by adding an oil to air-cool Hayden off the oil / radiator (water) cooler feed. Thoughts?

 

Yes, add an oil to air, should be straight forward.

 

As long as my truck is under warranty I'm not going to tinker with anything mechanical. I've watched and learned how OEM's will void a warranty claim if they have any smidgen that an installed part connected to a system could "interfere" with something regardless of design flaw, defect, or even TSB. You can count on it that once the warranty is over I will be adding my own cooler! The AJA0E & AJA0F 10 speed transmissions are still a 1st generation design and currently no technical resources are available through ATRA or ATSG, but Toyota and Honda transmissions are the least of what I see in my shops, but that doesn't mean they are bullet proof. The biggest thing that concerns me with this new generation of 10 speeds is the fact that Toyota is still using the same WS fluid from when it came out with 6 speed transmissions. Ford & GM are using an ultra low viscosity fluid in their 10 speeds. When you add more gears, there are more drums and clutches which generate more heat. The AJA0E & AJA0F are different than the Ford/GM 10 speeds which were a joint design venture between those 2 OEM's. The Ford 10 speed has been in use since 2017 so there has been time to see what's happening and failing on those. In the past 2 years I have definitely seen an influx of the Fords, mainly the trucks and SUV's with failures. Most of them overheated. I can tell you that 90% of the transmissions that I rebuild or even when installing a remanufactured unit, I add an external cooler. Some remanufacturers require proof of cooler replacement for their warranty! I recommend external coolers because they keep the transmission cooler which prolongs the life of the transmission. My shops are in Arizona and I have transmission rebuilds in vehicles that have survived years of 115 degree plus summers with no heat related failures. Unless you live in Alaska or where there is an extended time of below freezing temperatures, there's not really a "too cold" temperature for transmissions. Once the transmission temperature reaches 75-80 degrees it's operating efficiently. I have a high performance restomod that I occasionally take out to the drag strip, even then my transmission temperatures never get over 170 degrees with repeated passes when it's 90 degrees out. Driving to work when it's 110 degrees out in stop and go traffic, same thing; never gets over 170 degrees.

 

Sometimes the OEM's will use one of the "coolers" as a "warmer", to get the fluid up to operating temperature faster. This is mainly for colder climates, which makes sense with using a water cooled thermostatic valve opposed to the US OEM's which utilize an thermostatic valve based on ATF temperature. Either way, you are correct that adding an air cooled cooler will only help.

 

Even if there's not a true "bolt on" solution, it's not that difficult to add. Just make sure you are using a stacked plate or plate and fin design cooler, they are super efficient. Stay away from the tube and fin design.

 

Thank you for the great information. The Toyota WS transmission is a real mystery it seems. Toyota says it is good for 280 degrees but no where can I find it is synthetic. However, Aisin who makes the 6 speed in the 2007 through 2021 Tundras, sells an Aisin WS branded transmission fluid for their transmissions that states it is full synthetic. Seems odd to me that Toyota would formulate a totally different fluid than the fluid offered and recommended by the actual transmission manufacturer.

 

Toyota WS and Aisin WS are different. The biggest difference being that Toyota WS is not synthetic whereas Aisin is. They are both Low Viscosity, but Toyota claims that their WS is designed to match the friction coefficients in the clutches and torque converter. I think some of these companies just prefer to scare the consumer into only purchasing their products. I only stock 2 universal types of bulk ATF in my shops and the rest I buy as needed from the dealer or one of my suppliers. Most vehicles that we do a transmission service on we will only replace with the OEM fluid. If we are doing a rebuild or using a reman unit, then I use an equivalent if available. I don't pay attention to the temperature ratings on the fluid, because I can tell you from experience that repeated spikes in temps over 225 degrees are going to start causing breakdown and damage. If you think rear end gear oil smells putrid, you've not experienced burnt transmission fluid! Most important consideration in fluid is the viscosity and of course some use additives/detergents.

 

WS fluid has a base oil that is group iii mineral oil. The upper limit of temperature for maintaining good flow, minimizing cavitation in pumping systems, and viscosity for film strength, is somewhere between 250-300F. Depends on the base oil manufacturer...

The 19-21 trucks had nothing to control temperature rate-of-rise or to keep oil temps below a certain level. This is why it is good to add a cooler to those trucks. The AB60F is a bullet proof transmission. That there are not piles of dead ab60f's in the 19,20,21 trucks is a testament. But damn...those transmission temps are not comforting.

The 3rd gen actually has an "in tank" oil to water cooler. There is at least something to control temps. If you are towing and hitting something close to 250F I'd start to look for enhanced cooling measures.

 

I found this one after a quick Google search, does it look like it would actually fit and work? Link below says Steering Cooler but website description says Transmission Cooler.

https://www.proimporttuners.com/par...nd-power-steering-cooler-cooler-with-fan.html

 

I would not recommend or use that one. It is a tube and fin cooler, the best ones are plate and fin or stacked plate coolers. Something like this

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...SZ8g4ZkX8GonFsd9xVUcYmOf9daNQCbhoCluAQAvD_BwE

 

Agreed. Hayden is what I put in my SC Taco - no supplemental fan added and it did the trick. Just need to investigate where to place it in series with existing system. FYI and IMO - buy from your local auto parts store - they can get any model. My first experience was from an online seller. The product was defective (TruCool) and once you start this process you cannot afford to sit and wait for an online sale location to act. Go local and if it is bad you at least don't have to deal with a long return and replace process.

 

What year did Toyota change from the independent air to oil transmission cooler to the one integrated in the AC condenser? Seems like I have read that the ones with the cooler in the condenser had higher temps as well.

 

Answered my own question. 2011 the cooler went to the AC condenser. And guess what? There are many concerns shown with those models running temps similar to the 2019-2021 models. Even discussions about external coolers being added. Now playing devils advocate, assuming the majority of 2011 through 2018 owners did not add additional coolers and we do not have any documentation of massive failures, doesn’t that mean Toyota is right that the higher temps are acceptable for their transmission?

 

big time


See Example: Toyota LF transfer case fluid lol

 

You are very shrewd Captain. Also don't forget the idea that the cooler was "standard" (if I recall) only applied to the 5.7 motor. Many 4.6's were sold for around a decade with the same setup as the 19-21's - puck only. I believe on Sequoia's with the same drivetrains, the factory cooler was even less prevalent.

 

I wouldn't assume that Toyota is right. Remember it's a cost analysis gamble on the OEM's part. As long as their product can survive the warranty period, it's all parts and service revenue after that. Here's 2 examples to show you what I'm talking about:
Nissan CVT transmissions are one of the most commonly replaced transmissions in my line of work. They are complete garbage! We see them starting to fail as low as 70k miles and most don't ever make it past 115k miles. Nissan has used their CVT transmissions in their cars and light SUV's since 2008 with these high failure rates, yet they continue to produce them, why? All OEM's are required by EPA/CAFE standards to have standardized avg MPG rating across all the vehicles they sell in the US. Nissan can achieve these standards by using the CVT transmission. When the warranty is up after 36k miles, what do they care if the transmission fails?

One of the most popular GM transmissions, the 4L60 has a bad reputation for neutralizing out as well as other problems. If GM would have spent another $30 on better quality materials in their parts, those transmissions wouldn't have near amount the issues that they have. However, when you add $30 of cost to hundreds of thousands of units produced annually, it adds up to millions of dollars. Save millions on parts cost means bigger profits and bonuses. Again, after the OE warranty is up the consumer is on the hook for service and repairs.

At this point, the safer assumption to make is that some of Toyota's gamble on the older stuff is paying off. However the 10 speed is still very new to Toyota in these 3rd gens and who knows if their gamble is going to cost them (under warranty) or you (out of warranty). While I do see less Toyota transmissions fail, doesn't mean that they don't ever. I live in one of the hottest states, we often get 3-4 months of continuous summer temps well over 100 degrees, and heat is the biggest enemy to a transmission. You may never have a failure, but you tell me which is the safer bet; to spend a couple hundred dollars on a cooler now or spend nothing now and potentially spend upwards of $7k-$9k when your truck is out of warranty and you have to replace or rebuild the transmission?

 

So what do you think of this option as an additional external oil/air transmission cooler? Derale D13403, 19 row stacked/plate transmission cooler, -6an inlets, Class V.

Only thing I am not sure of are the connections - thread to barb and proper hose OD/ID size. TIA.

 

The hose size can always be overcome with adaptors. I generally try to avoid barbed connections because depending on the transmission the pressures can get over 150 psi. I know the oem's use clamps on some fittings but I just don't trust clamps at higher pressures. I take the better safe than sorry approach

 

It's actually a dual purpose cooler, it does help get the transmission up to temperature faster, (which really only needs to be in very cold climates) but also acts as a secondary cooler. Some of the remanufacturer's require that small cooler to be replaced or they will not honor their warranty. That's an interesting design on the thermostatic bypass valve. I'll have to get my hands on one, I generally either remove them or replace the internals when we do rebuild or install a reman unit. A lot of them tend to have high failure rates causing the transmission fluid to never reach the main cooler.

 

It looks similar to the "thermostat" on the AE80F in the 2016+ Land Cruiser. The one on the LC is electric though, where as I dont see a connnector on this one.

 

Genuine Cooling Systems working on a mod yet?