5VZ-FE V6 long crank when hot diagnostic video

Ivan at Pine Hollow goes through the diag. Mine is exhibiting some trouble on hot restarts, so I appreciated the procedure and equipment recommendations. No association, other than being a subscriber...

 

Did it solve your issue?

 

Collected the gauge and test fitting adapter, but haven't done it yet. The Toyota procedure is to remove the timing service cover and install the adapter there, test, and remove when done.

 

Got around to a few things on the truck today.

Fuel pressure: There's not enough room behind the timing belt backing cover plate for a straight banjo fitting/test port from my kit (I can now understand why Toyota has a service tool for this). I teed the main plastic line near the brake booster (before the regulator). I got a steady 44 PSI under all driving conditions. It held pressure while I spent 10 minutes in the AP store. FP looks fine to me.

Swapped in some plugs and air filter. Plugs looks pretty well done to me.
https://imgur.com/qrk2izQ
The ones in top of the pic are the drivers side. They look more eroded - don't understand why on a wasted spark/shared coil setup?
I had seen an extended/magnetic socket recommended (I've never dealt with deep heads) - what a great tip that was.

Checked the timing belt, looks perfect to me.
https://imgur.com/lGrsGyV
Appears to have been done twice in 2012?!?
https://imgur.com/vjIoFIq

Cleaned the MAF - about time!
https://imgur.com/9o1F4D4

And the throttle body.
https://imgur.com/TTp8SOK

It's still exhibiting a long crank on hot restarts (like if you stall it). If the accelerator pedal is depressed, it starts immediately.
It sure seems like there should be a little more lower end power (again stalling on takeoffs). Could be my retraining period for stick shift is the issue, or maybe I'm expecting too much from this sewing machine motor (seeing as my other truck's got a tuned DMax)

 

Have you tried cleaning the throttle body?

 

I think he was saying he cleaned the TB in his last pic. The caption above the pic is a bit ambiguous though. I think it tees off the caption above the pic before it.

So the two things I'd say here is this, and I'm spitballing:

1. Heatsoak can be detrimental to resistors; if your truck hsa a fuel pump resistor, I'd probably want to see what happens if I bypass it and start while hot, but honestly, I can't recall if the FP is in low-pressure (i.e. thru the resistor) mode when starting or in high pressure (direct voltage) mode, the fuel pump relay kicks it between both modes.
2. Just because the fuel pump is putting out solid PSI and holding it doesn't mean the fuel line isn't depressurizing after a trip, and thus slow start; HOWEVER, you'd always have slow start when cold because it'd definitely have time.

Those two points are why I'd be eyeballing an electrical-based issue (like the FP resistor). I can't think of anything else that's a resistor in the system (there may be, the last related V6 I had was in our Highlander) that may also be impacted.

I have this nagging feeling it's electrical though. Either ignition or otherwise. One potential way to test this would be with ether. If you shoot some ether into the TB while hot, when it would normally slow-crank, and it fires right up, it's a fuel issue. If not, you're probably turning over but not getting spark, and would need to dig into why.

/Random-ass-thoughts

 

Oops...missed that.

 

It will do this if I stall it immediately after cold starting and idling for under a minute (I've got a short steep driveway, and the top at the road is probably the steepest part, so I'm either stalling or roasting my clutch - especially with the boat in tow). The motor is far from warmed up at this point. Since it restarts immediately if I give it fuel rule out electrical? I ran it on the scanner yesterday - zero misfires and fuel trims looks right around zero. Injector issues would probably product misfires?

 

You could get misfires from any number of things. Clogged injector, intake gasket leak, bad spark, there's a myriad of stuff.

Given the fuel pump shouldn't actually be ON unless you (A) have the key in START position or (B) crank position sensor tells the ECM the engine is running, I dunno about that.

The last symptom is really curious, when are you stepping on the gas pedal to get it to start instantly? Before turning the key, while turning the key to START position, or ??

Stupid question but have you done the throttle re-calibration/re-learn process? Just for shits and giggles, it'll only cost you a little time. https://www.tundras.com/threads/thr...nd-relearning-psa-how-to.121328/#post-3441129

 

Not getting misfires

Fuel pumps not staying on with key off. Data: the system is holding pressure/not bleeding/leaking down immediately

Cold engine start: depress clutch, turn key, engine starts within a revolution or two
Cold engine started, run for 10-60 seconds, shut off attempt to restart: depress clutch, turn key, engine spins for 5+ seconds without catching. Hitting the accelerator at any moment starts it.

I'll give it a try.
Thanks!

Edit: Just did the relearn - no immediate change (didn't drive it though, just idled in the driveway)

 

If you get spark before it fires its a fuel problem, probably pump. If you dont have spark its an ignition problem the tps bleeds into. Sorry, cant see pics. Tightening the throttle linkage might fix things, but dont forget to disconnect the battery to let it relearn.

 

Right, but you asked, "Injector issues would probably product misfires?" so I answered that question.

Yeah, had my doubts. I don't think I realized you had the V6, totally glossed over that, and didn't realize you had a manual either. Guess I should look at vehicle info more often eh.

Can't help but think it's something electronic. Also coming up short what it could be.