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How much to cut for no rubbing at full turn?

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by HiccupLynn, Mar 4, 2024.

  1. Mar 4, 2024 at 4:03 PM
    #1
    HiccupLynn

    HiccupLynn [OP] New Member

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    I am running -44 with a 6 inch lift on my 19 tundra. Curious how much everyone had to cut in order to have no rubbing at full turn. Did you all do a body mount chop, cab mount chop? How much did we cut.
     
  2. Mar 4, 2024 at 4:50 PM
    #2
    b6graham

    b6graham New Member

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    The odds of finding many people here with a -44 are pretty small
     
  3. Mar 4, 2024 at 10:28 PM
    #3
    Saltyhero13

    Saltyhero13 Throbbing Member

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    To get better advice and help from folks they will need to know your tire width and tire height. You can check out custom offset's search to see if someone has your set up, they usually have a description of what they did to fit their setup.

    https://www.customwheeloffset.com/

    To give you an idea folks can fit 35s with ~0 to +25 offset and ~3inch lift. The negative offset (pushes the tire out away from the center of the truck) and really wide tires cause rubbing issues.

    You can try to get UCA with some Caster to push the wheel forward away from the body mount. Some people have luck shimming the bumper or in your case you may need to do a viper cut.

    I would try searching here for -44 see what comes up too. I think some of the popular ICONs are -44.
     
    HiccupLynn[OP] likes this.
  4. Mar 5, 2024 at 5:02 AM
    #4
    Slag_Dynamics

    Slag_Dynamics Cut. Weld. Repeat.

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    I’m running 0-Offset with 37’s and I cut mine pretty much flush with the cab mount bolt.

    I would recommend removing material a little at a time and checking your rub. It will most likely rub worse at full lock in reverse, so that’s where I would check.

    Here is a generic photo of about the location I had to cut mine to. They also sell complete relocation kits.

    upload_2024-3-5_6-0-11.jpg
     
    HiccupLynn[OP] and BlueRibbon4x4 like this.
  5. Mar 5, 2024 at 6:45 AM
    #5
    HiccupLynn

    HiccupLynn [OP] New Member

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    I appreciate the info. The tires are 35x12.5. I’m not sure I wanna do the whole cab mount relocation since it will be a daily driver and doing that kind of modification is technically for off road use only but I will definitely take it into consideration. Your before pic was helpful for sure!
     
  6. Mar 5, 2024 at 7:18 AM
    #6
    Slag_Dynamics

    Slag_Dynamics Cut. Weld. Repeat.

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    As @Saltyhero13 said, getting your caster maxed out will give you some additional clearance there as well.

    I’d recommend adjustable upper control arms for the ability to fine tune camber with the LCA’s maxed out though.

    Also, for what it’s worth, the cab mount relocation isn’t just for “off road use”. It may be marketed as such to limit liability, but done professionally it’s really the ultimate way to remedy this issue.

    Several guys on this forum run them without issue. I believe @azTony has his done and it came out super clean.
     
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  7. Mar 5, 2024 at 3:38 PM
    #7
    Saltyhero13

    Saltyhero13 Throbbing Member

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    To minimize cutting I recommend posting pictures of the touch points when your wheel turned all the way left and right.

    Honestly you'll have an easier time with 0 to +18 offset wheels I think +35s is the lowest I've seen but they had a skeletonized offroad bumper with more wheel clearance.

    Folks with ~3in lifts can fit your tires or slightly narrower with minimal modifications. The poke is the issue and the tire width makes it worse.

    This article may give you some more ideas:
    https://www.coastaloffroad.com/clearing-37-tires-on-a-toyota-tundra-at-any-ride-height/

    If you are trying to save money the viper cut mode can help (and looks good enough IMO):
    https://www.tundras.com/threads/viper-cut-mod.113228/

    To echo @Slag_Dynamics there is a company that sells a body mount/cab mount relocation kit that comes with a base plate. The base plate is welded to the frame and the new mount gets welded to that. Kits that don't have this are prone to failure. This base plate method is much stronger than the factory set up.
    Drt Fab is the one I would go with if you decide to relocate instead of chop. Even with the relocation you'll probably need to hammer down the pinch weld.
     
  8. Mar 5, 2024 at 3:39 PM
    #8
    coTony

    coTony member since sept, 2017 and a BUNCH of messages

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    Yes mine went in just fine, had them in before the 37's arrived so they never felt any metal since they have been on from the body mount, provides a lot of clearance
     
  9. Mar 5, 2024 at 3:55 PM
    #9
    Ryuu

    Ryuu Hwat!?

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    a few
    only cutting I had done was the BMC, I do run an aftermarket bumper though and suspension setup I have allows more caster to get the tires away from the cab.
    I'm running 37x12.50r17 on 17x8.5 -10 offset wheels, but because of my setup I'm effectively at what would be about -74 offset.

    when I was stock width, I ran adjustable heim joint uniball upper control arms though to keep the tire further up but I was only at +5 offset then. had the BMC then, only issue I had then was rubbing the swaybar at full lock, but no issues with rubbing on the cab.
     
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