What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Now if I could just figure out who is OEM for rear shoes. Not Advics apparently and I'll likely have to buy em to find out what's in the box.

Oh well...with 3mm on the shoes could keep running them for a bit, but with this sale for just $66 can just swap em and be good for another 200K miles.

Do ya'll just replace the c-clip for the shoes or buy a full aftermarket hardware kit with springs too? My adjusters seems to be in fine shape.

 

Learn from others: Don’t use aftermarket adjusters, refresh the OEM if possible, but yours are fine so no worry there.

How many miles on hardware? I would check ops on the adjuster, cylinder, springs and if it all appears fine, reinstall. Note: I don’t love working in drums and readjusting can be finicky, see the ‘rear brake adjustment’ sticky, and if you need to hear war stories ask @BrakeManglerVol

 

Ah good I can go another 60k before I attempt to split my drums in half to inspect my rear brakes.

 

I hit my adjusters with a really thin file to sorta sharpen the teeth, dunno if it helped, but it worked as a placebo.

 

Thanks @shifty`.

@247K miles.

Yeah I feel good about rear shoe, bell-crank, parking brake, and proportioning valve adjustments. Definitely sticking with OEM adjusters and mine will just get some good TLC and Silglyde and continue use. Will pick up the disposable C-clip, but unless the springs are known to snap at this many miles, or the cylinders are prone to leak soon, seems like just running the original cylinders, springs and hold down cups/pins might be adequate since everything seems fine, no rust, etc. Could rebuild the cylinders but they're working well too.

In fact, maybe I'm swapping shoes early with 3mm still left on them, but if pulling the shoes to clean and grease the adjuster after about 250k miles, it seems not expensive with the 25% sale for new shoes and drum turns (probably $100 total) while doing the labor ... to have the rears in tip top shape and protect the front rotors just swapped on.

 

Right? While the rear shoes are known to last almost forever, they might not last as long if had been meticulously adjusted so the fronts aren't doing all the stopping. Might want to just open up, wash out, and at least measure and adjust them. That photo is after washing with brake cleaner. Likely will have a 1/2 cup of brake dust in there that isn't helping.

 

Don't forget to lube the contact points for the moving bits

 

https://www.reddit.com/r/discordVideos/comments/1avvqvf/dang_shes_grown_up_now/?rdt=54721

 

Yep, three contact points on the backing plate and the bottom pivot point per shoe as well as the contacts of the adjuster with the shoes. Also be sure to put the parking brake cable back in the right spot under the guide.

(This is picture of 1st gen Tacoma but picture worth a thousand words and same routing of the cable on best gen Tundra)

 

Today I complete the removal of my door handle

 

That's not the way the removal procedure is prescribed in the FSM. Corner of shame for you sir.

 

Please forgive me. I have sinned.

Installed Moog steering rack bellows. They have to be better than the non-existent OE bellows, right?




Most of the grime on these bellows is from a former engine oil leak, not a rack leak.

I know there was recently some debate about these. Figured I would give the Moog bellows a try since it only takes about 30 minutes to change them out. Moog provides zip ties to secure the bellows to the rack and tie rod I reused the OE clamp on the tie rod and used a hose clamp on the rack.

 

Mooog. Psh

 

Moog is okay for that. I may or may not have done mine with Moog

 

I thought the consensus on Moog bellows was they're garbage and rip way easier than OEM?

 

I'll let you know in due time. These things were under $20, only take about a 1/2 hour to R&R and won't ka-chow your spindle if/when they fail.

 

The 4.0 V6 is a great motor. I'd take a SC'ed 4.0 over a SC'ed 4.7.

 

My S-pen is broke, otherwise I'd make one. Just pretend it says "FishNinja" instead on bmf4069.

 

In typical fashion, everything went tits up today. Oh well. I got my new amps in. Sounds quite a bit better with 100w to the fronts and an actual 1000w to the subs. I didn't get pics except one:



Wow man. And those are "professionals" that did that. But yeah, it made it a lot cleaner and clearer up front, and the subs hit harder and don't shut off from the amp going into protect. It also cured the random thumps and pops!

I went to 3 different muffler shops to try and get a new aftermarket muffler. Nothing. My Friday list got moved to tomorrow I guess.

 

Here you go.

 

Dude. Ferrule those shits. What in the hell is wrong with people!?

 

Do what I did, dissconect the muffler from the factory resonator, cut the flange piece off at the rear of the muffler, buy a step up and some pipe at autozone or where ever, get a 2.5" straight through muffler, weld together, tack hangers back on and do a pre axle dump. Drones like a mother but meh, sound good as all hell

 

Been there done that. Fix is pretty easy and not terribly expensive.

 

That'll piss ya off

20A mini for the fogs

 

Mine look just like that, with the bottom half missing. I also have some Moogs waiting to be installed -
MOOG K90437 hahahaha glad im not the only one

 

My grommet was tight, and hard, and brittle. I DAMN near lost the whole thing down in there.
Practice up on one of these first....