Make Your 12v and 110 Outlets Stay On all the time

I wonder just how simple it would be to constantly keep my 12 and 110 outlets on.
I keep a fridge/freezer in my truck, which has an automatic turnoff. But I am not sure if this is even possible on this new Tundra with the Hybrid. Before I go and ask my dealer to do this, what do you all say? Is there an easy way for me to do this?
If you are interested in the Fridge, here is the link.

https://www.vevor.com/car-refrigera...-for-outdoor-camping-travel-rv-p_010617002072

I appreciate any help you can provide.
Ray

 

The dealer won't be able to do that, you're looking at adding a direct wire from the 12v battery under your rear seat and hopefully the fridge has a low voltage cut off so you can still start the truck after it runs the battery down. The hybrid battery is 288v so it won't interface with the 12v system that runs the small 100/400watt inverter that runs the 120v AC plug in the cab and bed. As of right now there are no options to run anything off the 288v Ni-MH architecture of the hybrid battery. Sure seems like an opportunity to provide such a system for the right supplier is out there, but would be best not to mess with 288v DC power.....there are a lot of dumb people out there and you can't fix stupid. Its a 1.87 kwh battery so not a ton of power stored in it in the first place, but that would run that fridge for 2-3 days if you could find a DC-DC converter to get the 288v battery to get you to 12v to run a fridge. Running an inverter off that 288v (if you could find one) would probably get you 1-2 days run time maybe...

 

Oh for context...say a 12 v Lithium Phosphate 100 amp hour battery would run that fridge for about a day to day and a half from 100% down to 0%. You probably have about 3 to 10 hours run time before it would hit low voltage and shut off for the 12v battery currently in the truck from the factory. If you're looking for any kind of run time you need a stand alone battery preferably with a little solar to go with it.

 

I much appreciate the information. I figured the big battery didn't play well with the little battery. The 12V direct wire is an option, as the fridge has a low-volt shutoff. I'll have to get used to the on-off button on the dash. Again, thanks for confirming my suspicions.

 

Not sure what on/off button you're referring to on the dash. Is it the button for the 100/400 inverter? That only works with the truck running. 400watts in park and 100watts in drive at 120V. If you want to keep the fridge running at all when the truck is off you're only looking at a direct 12v wire to the starting battery. Keep in mind the starting battery is only going to get you maybe half a day run time for the fridge on 12v and hopefully the fridge cut off lines up with leaving enough juice in the battery to start the truck. Before you venture off into the woods definitely test running the fridge till it shuts off and try and start your truck in the driveway.

 

Ty, yes, the switch/button on the dashboard turns on the outlet in the truck's bed, the outlet in the rear seat, and the 12V plug on the top of the dashboard. They are all tied together. They will only function after two conditions have been met. The truck must be running, and the button needs to be activated or pushed to the on position. When the truck is turned off, all three outlets are off. This is where I have a small problem. It is not a big problem, but I would like to have my fridge/freezer on during the night. I agree with you that the solution is to run a 12V line to the battery, which I plan on doing. Apologies for not explaining this better. I am used to having cigarette light plugs running all the time—old-school stuff. Thanks again, Ray.

 

Thanks, Ryan; then the 12V plug is just wired separately but is still only activated when the truck is running.

 

100/400W at 120V is kind of a joke. That won't even run a typical coffee maker, toaster, or hair dryer, let alone power tools. I can't envision many uses for it, other than charging small batteries, perhaps.

 

Oh my first CD player in a car was a walkmen (later upgraded to one with skip protection) with a cigarette adapter and cassette tape adapter. The old stuff worked and still does (something like below). As Ryan said yep that 12v socket is on when the truck is on.

 

Then, as mentioned by both you and Ty, a direct 12V line to the vehicle's 12V battery is the only solution.