A couple questions

1. Does anyone out there know the part number for black lug nuts for a 3rd gen Tundra? I have the blackout package and don't like the chrome.

2. I would like to put on "affordable" tow hooks on the front and back of my truck without having to remove the air dam or cut metal, any suggestions?

3. I've seen pictures of the toyota console safe but I understand that console vault also makes one, any idea which is the better design and more secure?

4. I hate the cupholder design as there isn't a barrier between the two and my coffee cup falls over into the next cup space and sloshes the black liquid all over. Is there a way to fix this issue?

Thanks to those that have the answers!

 

Lugs: PT076-60200-02 (pack of 6). There is another part # for individual lugs @ $9/lug if you want to spend more.

 

there are a bunch of Amazon / etsy divider pieces like this one that would probably help



https://cupgrip.com/products/cup-gr...NWfxvCZPnO9ajXRVT_o2TXEktOtwjEZxoCL6UQAvD_BwE

 

Very helpful, Thank you!

 

I bought the same brand off the etsy store and they do not fit. They must have sent me the wrong ones.

 

Welcome from PA!

 

Oh bummer

 

I got mine from this site. They are different sizes depending on trim level.
https://cupgrip.com/

 

I reached out to them on both Etsy and the website you provided. Hopefully we can get them replaced. We are a two 3rd gen family.

 

Interested in info about the console safe!

 

I just bought the Console Vault. I haven't installed yet but will share pics once I do. What decided it for me was the positive reviews for the Console Vault and how it is oriented in the console. The OEM safe looks like it will partially block the slide tray opening where the Console Vault doesn't. Console Vault is giving $50 off right now if you sign up to their website. With that, the cost between the two are very similar.

 

Did you opt for the barrel lock or one of the combo locks?

 

I added the barrel lock. It cost $49 more but I'm glad I did it because it feels substantial.

 

how far does it stick up? Do you think it will create any problems moving things in and out of your console? Thanks

 

The lock sticks up just under an inch. I don't anticipate any issues with it hitting the console lid. Also, once the safe is unlocked the lid has a spring and will just pop open. Not sure the OEM one does that.

 

Affordable is very subjective. Right now not many options for bolt on. AFE makes front ones for about $150 pair, but IMO if you go off roading they're likely going to get hooked on something. Plus depending on recovery angle, I could see straps or chains doing a lot of damage to the bumper cover. If you wanted affordable for the rear you could always do a trailer hitch recovery point. Not that ideal either. The only other bolt on with little or no modification is the NYTOP ones. You can trim your plastic valance cover using their template or for additional cost order their metal valance already precut for the hooks. They also offer rear hooks that bolt to the frame. So far the best bolt on option I have seen but a little more expensive. Here's a video that shows the installation process for the NYTOPs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SGx0qKnAoQ

 

looks like they have it solid on the crash bar, but how is the crash bar mounted, is it going to take that much outward pulling in a recovery situation? I think its meant to fold inward easily

Im guessing the auto folding down aero fin thingy has to be removed for this as well?

 

Further to my previous message, here are pics of the Console Vault installed. I included picture that shows how it doesn't block the sliding console access. The safe is well constructed and was an easy install.

 

Ooooooooo I like this... adding to my wish list !!!!

 

Got mine from Locker Down

 

I am considering that same model from Lock'er Down. How responsive is the digital keypad? How hard do you need to push and if you have big fat fingers would it be a problem? Also, with that keypad, is there also a key slot or none at all?

 

The instructions on their website state "Remove the 4 bolts and the L bracket that connect the bumper crash bar to the frame rails on each side." This replaces that OEM bracket and is mounted directly to the frame rail. These also act as a bracket for the crash bar. This requires no modification or removal of the deployable air dam.

 

Pretty easy on the push, I don’t have big fat fingers, don’t think it would be hard to do. No key slot

 

People on this forum know almost everything about Tundras!!!