1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Yeah, I’ve been considering moving to a gold ano’d bolt around the perimeter. Or shifting to black like FGV for a proper visual inch. But in general, I don’t hate the bolts. And I’ll take anything extra that gives at least some level of protection to the wheel itself.

Translation, I think: The whole point of custom wheels is to change up the look. If you don’t like it, don’t buy it, or stay stock. Just because I stroke with two hands at the same time doesn’t mean you need to bail on your one-hand jam.

It may be your opinion, but your statement is also false.

The faux beadlock serves a function, and is replaceable on purpose on certain wheels (I can’t say all, I’m not sure if it’s replaceable on malldozer wheels), hence the bolts, which means the bolts serve a purpose also if the ring is removable/replaceable on your chosen wheel.

That fauxlock serves as a rash guard. It sits proud of the rim and wheel, and will take damage from anything that would otherwise make contact with the lip of the wheel - curbs, rocks while crawling, trail debris, whatever. If you’re paying $300-500/wheel, wouldn’t you like the peace of mind to know there’s some nerfage there so, in the vent something stupid does happen, your fauxlock takes a hit, and saves your rim or wheel gots from getting a gnarly battle scar or worse damage?

I believe crawler folks call this a “rock ring” versus fauxlock/brolock/etc. And if you really wanted to go custom, there are companies (not just Method, on my wheels) who make replacement rock rings in every color of the rainbow.

If you don’t like it, don’t buy it. But don’t claim it has no purpose, just because you don’t like the way it looks.

 

I never thought of it this way. Mine have some damage from the previous owner. I still have to look at those scratches. So whether or not it scratches the internal part, or the outside, it's still unsightly. I guess it protected the more critical part? A minor advantage I guess.

 

That lip also helps protect your valve stems, the 4R trail wheels also have a recess that sort of protects the stem as well. I’ve def been on a trail and my wheels got sucked into a rock, kinda had to roll thru it……

 

I just changed mine out also to all black

 

Lookin fresh

 

If yours are scratched, you can reach out to the guys at SCS, I’m sure they can get you a replacement. I’ve seen some pretty gnarly pics online of pristine wheels with mangled rings, and those wheels wouldn’t be driveable or pristine if those fauxlock rings hadn’t been there.

 

For me, wheels are cosmetic. Updating your wheels is no different than updating your kitchen counters. It’s all about what looks good for the time. Society’s tastes change with time.
Like when everyone’s house had hardwood floors and then carpet was invented. People rushed out to cover their beautiful hardwood floors with carpet because that’s what society deemed looked good at the time.
Take a look at a tri five Chevy that was restored and updated in the 80s. Ugly as fuck now. But back in the 80s, it looked good. It’s all about peoples tastes and what is popular at that time.
I run my starfish wheels and I run my chrome bumpers because they are period correct for my vehicle. Some will say that it looks ugly, but it’s how it was designed to look when it was manufactured. OEM will never go out of style. We may look back when 2050 rolls around and think, those trucks they updated back in 2020 look ugly because something else will come along and take the place of black trim and gold wheels. And while everyone else is spending money to update their truck to look like what is popular for the time, OEM will still look good because it is period correct for the vehicle.

 

My gold centers looked good for the 1980s. But I’ll be damned if I ever do one of those garbage geometric shapes or splash paint styles that was popular in the 80s. I think a nice muted-gold or brass wheel looks f’n awesome on vehicles. I don’t think most people think it “looks good for the time”, especially if you’re Pucks’ wife.

 

The counters in my kitchen are period specific, from the 50s, a light peach color tile with “drain board” counter that all slopes into the light pink sink. Mama hates all the grout lines that get dirty

 

So, back to my cluster. I’m betting the light bulb thread might have more info. I’ll have to order up the tiny bulbs for gear indicator. I have the big ones for green parking light illumination. And I have some smaller ones in green as swell. But it looks like possibly 4 or more sizes. I’m betting there is an official list somewhere. Rough part is it’s hard to know what sizes I’ve bought since they aren’t labeled and I bought long ago.

I also realized last night that only a small number are green. Most are white. I believe I have green, white and amber but not in all sizes. So I’m probably buying some new ones in addition to the drive indicator.

For the background it looks like the bulb holders are color coded green and there are three big ones and one medium sized one. Then the rest are white and show colors based on filters in the cluster?

For polarity I wonder if replacing in groups is best or just swap every bulb first then test and take notes and then swap? To test turn key to ignition which covers all the error lights, turn parking lights on for background, move the shifter for drive indicator and stalk for turns / hazards, fog and high beam? Don’t touch the low fuel light as that should stay halogen?

Last, while the cluster is out, I could attempt to tap the VSS wire for my pioneer which complains about that not being connected. If I can figure out which one that is.

Kind of a lot going on. But I could just go with the changes I’ve already done which was a swap of Lo to D, no bulb for Lo cause the old D was clearly burned, and LED background lights (4). But I might try amber or white instead of green to see how I like that.

thanks for all the help so far. I misunderstood the quantity and complexity of bulb swapping before from casual reading of posts.

 

Correct

 

Simple and effective

 

Ceramic coat the wheels. Holy hell it makes it easy to clean.

 

Second this. It looks very good in person. Everyone wants this OEM+ look, but your truck is straight OEM.

I’m definitely on the other end of this, but I’m making a big effort to be “period correct” as well. Changing out basically everything, but doing my best to not take away from the nostalgic look of these trucks.

 

Did someone say beadlocks?

 

I've wanted a set of these since i was 13.

 

5 blocks of al-loo-min-i-um, some cad work, little CNC. I really think @shifty` needs to design a custom set of rims.

 

Wonder if some JB Weld, little sanding, little black paint wouldn't make those bolts go away.

edit - wait, those nuts open? The lock is removable? I thought the whole "faux" critique was that they didn't actually come off????

 

Still meh compared to FJ or 4Runner wheels

 

LOL - i have a freestanding sink. sits on a metal cabinet. porcelain sink with drain board on both sides of it. Probably 1930's. Like rims, I haven't seen anything new that's more functional. Best part on the sink - no grout lines. I gotta stand on "Mama's" side on the grout lines @FrenchToasty - grout lines are the one reason I'd redo a counter.

 

This helped me with the small ones

 

Probably within 5 years we will redo the kitchen/counters. We have solid wood cabinets that I like, a relatively newer gas cooktop(the oven stand alone is super foreign to me)
So if anything I’d maybe strip all the cabinets and doors and then try to save the lowers and do some kind of top with a big ass sink

 

Do like Bathfitters, just toss a counter skin over the period correct, caulk at the sink & you'll have time to take the pirates on an adventure!

 

For the sink portion? That’s a good idea for the meantime!

 

All this wheel talk reminds me I wheely need to get off my ass and go get my new tires mounted on my new wheels. Lol.

 

I started off trying to keep the OEM look of my FGT. But I’ve fallen off that wagon. Specifically with bumpers. I’m a fan of steel bumpers. I am at the point with the bed and shell that I may go flatbed there. Because it’s such a useful box and the Oem bed is ok but not awesome while the shell is as good as it gets but still not waterproof at all and not all that awesome. And I think RC looks ok w aftermarket flatbed.

 

a-loo-min-um

 

Any chance you remember if we have all 3 of these sizes? I guess I need to measure and count? Probably worth making that a stickie but I guess it varies a little by year and trim?

 

This looks like something @Mr.bee would bid upon…

https://www.estatesales.net/MA/Beverly/01915/3951159?picture=159768317

 

Saturday update. 21 days without any alcohol alcohol. I’ve lost another 1.5 pounds. I’m currently at 205.6 from 231.5. This morning I had to tighten my belt a notch Good things