What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

2 trucks. So you can haul parts from one in the other. The ultimate way would be to have identical matching trucks so you could fix the vin on one, and only have to have one insurance policy.

 

Before and after quite a bit of elbow grease and rubbing compound ... but could use another round. Looks like volcanic crush thrown over snowy/icy roads embedded in the paint. Ideas on how to clean this out of matte black wheels more easily?

 

What year are you thinking? Got a 72 FJ40. Some years have more features saving some mods like adding Saginaw or discs.

 

@metalpete I have an old Kenwood KDC-X599 Excelon and a Kenwood KDC-BT365U available. They were installed in my DC and my brothers Passat respectively. Worked when removed from either vehicle and replaced with touchscreen double din units, a Kenwood in my DC and an Alpine in the Passat.

 

Not messed up. Just the foam cushion on the door side of the driver seat was not up to par from 24 years of getting in and out. Also had a few small 1/4” or so tears in the fabric. The replacement one has a bit more girth to it. The seat frame and track assembly is still good. It would not be difficult to swap the seat cushion from one to another.

 

Don’t know enough about them to consider existing options but roughly the power train & Mall Crawler.

 

Mother's Powerball, maybe?

 

Maybe an iron remover may help with that?

I’d also try to see if I could get a dremel and attach a small brissle brush to the end Ann’s go to town with a degreaser or some other sort of cleansing agent.

 

In truth, any buffing / polishing compound would suffice. It'd bring the shine back too.

 

Main problem is those wheels are matte. Surface finish affects ability of wheels to stay clean. Matte finish is more porous and less resistant to dirt, grime and water. Glossier finishes are less porous and will resist getting dirty and clean up easier when they do. You could clean them up really well and hit em with some gloss to make them easier to clean in the future.

 

Iron remover then agitate see what ya get. It's hard to tell in the 2nd picture but it looks like the matte finish came off from polishing? at that point try to get the rest of the black off and polish to a satisfactory finish or recoat and then put a protective coating of some sort on to help preserve.

 

Lesson learned. Not going back to that location again manager was a prick and flat out just trying to save his store rep and any bonus he may get Imo. Perfectly circular scratches after a balance.... Their insurance paid for it anyway.

 

If your wheels get that bad during the winter it might be advantageous to get steelies and inexpensive tires to get you through the winter. Either that or drive another sacrificial vehicle if you have one.

 

I'm not sure that I could have matched this any better. I'm going to do one more coat. Por-15 is a great product and the Rust-Oleum Truck Bed coating on top gets it done. I did two coats of primer on top of the POR.








Does anyone think I'll regret this edge trim? If it traps dirt it could make the issue worse.

 

I’ve got edge trim on my doors and they don’t last very long before they start to get gooey and come off. They’re good if you need to park on a non level surface and worry about your door hitting someone else’s and scraping it.

 

Where are you planning on putting the edge trim?
Also the trim I got/used has metal teeth impregnated and that’s what actually grabs onto the metal to hold

my rear fenders at the bumper is starting to fall off, but it’s at a weird curve below the light, I should be able to just push it back up/on

 

If you wanna get crazy you maybe even put a small bead of clear silicone sealant before putting that on. It’ll keep moister and dirt and shit out 100% wipe away any excess and it should t even look like it’s there.

I use this on my kayaks for anywhere I drill holes and I’ve never had a leak

 

Only the part where it rubs the fender. Still going to put something on top too. For the same reason.

 

Yep, that's me! I get a lot of flak for being a guy that still buys cds, but guess who's gonna have the tunes when shit goes full "Mad Max"?!

@artsr2002 I appreciate it, sir, but those are basically what I just took out of my truck.

This is more what I have. In fact, I wish this was on sale when I bought the other!

https://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_75490_Kenwood_DDX5707S.aspx

 

It's better than nothing especially since it's not at the bottom where water can drain as well and pool up. If you can easily replace it would be good too!

 

@The Black Mamba

Was it you that said he needed a lock cylinder for your gas door? I had this backorder show up yesterday, well after I bought another.

 

Can those lock cylinders be ordered keyed to a specific key code? If not can they easily be re-keyed?

 

I credit @KNABORES for this idea..

Still working on fitment.

 

That is a great question. I don't think so, since they send the keys with the cylinder, seems pretty specific.

I have a separate key for my ignition, doors, and gas door lol.

 

What did you use to get the old adhesive off? I’m having trouble with mine and this is what I’m left with currently

 

Wd40, it may take a few applications of rubbing it in/off with a microfiber towel or something

 

Eraserwheel works great, but don't by the generic ones on scAmazon. Otherwise, every LAPS carries sticker & label remover sprays, don't let it run in behind the trim, it's held on by adhesive too.

 

I do. What I also done have is the clip for the back of the cylinder that attaches it to the door.

Yes. The cylinder can be removed and the tumblers adjusted or even removed for a different key or even no key

 

Nice, think it was @Festerw that suggested the peel and stick tile if your going that direction.