AMP research power running boards?

Yeah, one of the Rhino assemblies was very close to one of these, but I think on the passenger side. Interesting, yes, they could be there for the mfg process... or maybe just for handling in the supply chain. But strange that AMP says it isn't super common to have this issue, but they have seen it a number of times.

I am leaning towards cutting it. But I need to have a look at the passenger side to see what if any interference there is. If there is a problem like this over there, maybe in a tighter spot, I'll punt. But I believe it will just be this one since this kit has only 2 motors and the idlers won't be a problem... and the "brace" or whatever on the rear should not be an issue since that motor will be facing towards the rear and not the front.

 

Just went under again and it looks like I am OK on the passenger side. So, I'll likely cut that one on the driver's side off tomorrow. Or maybe just half of it. I need to check to see if I have a good sharp reciprocating saw blade.... or make a trip to Lowes.

 

It's pretty hard steel, I was going to try and mount my rock lights to those and dulled out 2 good new drill bits trying to get pilot holes started. If you have an angle grinder you could use a cut off wheel as well

 

That was my first thought to use the grinder. But it might be a cleaner cut with a recip saw, if it will cut it. Then grind down the edges. Either way, or both. things are awful beefy for having no use, at least no apparent use on my truck.

 

I believe we have an answer from the other thread... these are probably protection at the doors from side impacts. Losing a few inches won't hurt, and people don't fit back there on a DC anyway.

 

Or maybe not since there is a report in the other thread of a 2024 that doesn't have these stubs at all. So, I guess the mystery continues...

Meanwhile, I am going to fit the rear AMP linkage without the motor installed and then hold the motor up to the stub to see where it needs to be cut. I have both corded and cordless grinders with diamond metal cutting blades that should cut this easily... except it may be impossible to get the top. Might have to use the reciprocating saw to finish. Or just punt and go to a shop where they have a cutting torch which would make short work of this.

 

AMPs are in and they work great. Absolutely zero issues on the first power up. I had to cut those rear stubs on the frame of my DC to install the motor brackets. Bit of a PITA, for sure. But the ergonomics of the steps are so much better I can't even tell you. Mine rest at 8" off the pavement whilst the Rhinos were 12 1/2". Stepping in is as natural as can be... as is stepping out. They also have that slight delay that lets you shut one door and then open the other without cycling. They are also quieter than the Rhinos. In any case, the Rhinos are a decent product if you can work with their ergos. I just couldn't. I forgot that the AMPs don't come with an override switch, so I need to get one. Not sure how it connects as there are no spare wires or sockets??

 

Very nice. I can’t wait to install them on my truck, but now have to wait for the diff fix.

the switch has a harness that plugs into the control unit. You remove some pins from the small socket. Here’s the instructions.

 

But the controller does not have an unoccupied socket. It has 2 sockets and both are filled.

 

My controller already has that smaller 8-pin plug in place, but it isn't fully populated. So, I will assume... although your posted directions don't say... that the installer will have to run the switch wires and then insert them into that existing connector. I hope they supply the little Molex pin tool... not sure where mine is. In any case the switch is out of stock at RT. I'll have a look elsewhere. But it is a shame that the main harness didn't include those wires along with the trigger wires that you bring up under the driver's seat. <SMH>

 

Just did my go rhinos, seem solid and good construction. I don’t necessarily like the magnets, but you don’t really notice them and it is a stand alone system which I do like. Height is not an issue. Did the wescott spacer and put 35” bfg’s and my 5,2” wife has no problem getting in now

 

I like the Rhinos mechanically but the problem for me is that they put me up so high I couldn't get low enough my legs under the steering wheel.

Here is another view of the amps for comparison:

 

The switch kit includes the wire harness with the pins installed on the end that goes to the controller, bare wires on the switch end and crimp connectors that fasten on the wires and plug onto the switch. I received a newer version of the instructions with the kit dated 08.04.20 which says, “Locate White connector (smaller connector)and unplug from controller. Remove pin plug from location 5, 6, &7. Insert green wire into pin 7, white wire into pin 5, black wire into pin 6. Once pin in engaged pull lightly on wire to verify engagement.”
“Route harness into the cab…drill hole for switch using a step drill…crimp supplied connectors onto switch wires…green to top terminal on switch, black to middle terminal and white to bottom terminal”
Sorry for the confusion. Didn’t realize the instructions on their web page are older version than those I received with the switch. And since you have the controller with two connectors, order the switch without the controller since you already have it.

 

That's what I figured it had to be and posted that earlier... it's just that I didn't see that in any of the instructions which show a harness with a whole new plug and called it Plug and Play. I guess you can say plugging in 3 Molex pins is sort of Plug and Play. LOL. I know, some of the older AMPs would need the new controller and that new plug. They aren't very good at having specific instructions.

 

Hey Chuck, one tip for the AMP installation... the short conical head stainless bolts that attach the braces to the rear motor linkages in my kit required a security torx bit, you know, with the little pin in the center. Nothing in the installation directions about this and I'm not sure why since there are no other security features anywhere else.... but if you don't have that bit you might get stuck. A 90 degree security torx key would also work in lieu of a bit. IIRC, I believe it is a T25, but don't hold me to that. Or you could just go to the hardware store and get a similar normal torx bolt or whatever.

 

The other thing I plan to do when I get a switch is what I usually do with these aux switches, solder the wires to the switch terminals, cover those connections with shrink tube, then make a short pigtail for a Molex connector. So, if you install the switch in the kick or other panel that might need to come off now and then, it is a simple matter of unplugging the Molex. If you keep those push on connectors, you'll sometimes find yourself having to go back to the reference to remember which color goes where. Or some mech at the dealer will have the same issue and mess it up. The Molex goes together only one way so no worries with that.

$12 Molex Connector Lot, 5 Matched Sets, (3-Circuits) w/18-24 AWG .093" Pins, Free Hanging

Molex Connector Lot, 5 Matched Sets, (3-Circuits) w/18-24 AWG .093" Pins, Free Hanging: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

Good idea. I’ll do that while I wait for the steps to come available and to get my truck back from getting the rear diff replaced and changing the shocks / struts to TRD OR. Thanks for all of your help!

 

Too bad about the diff. Hope the new one is perfect. Good move on OR suspension. I like mine a lot.

I am waiting for Real Truck to get the switches back in stock. I have found them elsewhere but they all want ~$20 shipping, which is ridiculous. For instance Amazon price is $83 shipped when the switch cost is $59.99 + shipping at the other etailers.

 

Just glad I took her into the dealer about the whining from the diff. My son’s ‘22 SR5 TRD OR is quiet and smooth, so I knew it wasn’t normal. His Tundra has been good except for the recalls. Service seems to be good and customer oriented. Same dealer where my son bought.

I got my switch from Realtruck when I ordered my original AMP Extreme steps. They refunded my $$ for steps and switch when I returned the steps but told me to “destroy” the switch. Glad I kept it. I have the T25 bit and a security 90° wrench that is close to the T25. I’ll just have to check the bolt size when it arrives. Thanks for the heads up. This support bracket thing is new - I’ve used AMP steps on 3 other trucks and never had this many issues, one was a Gen 2. (This is my 3rd Tundra. I had a Gen1, Gen2 and now a Gen3).

 

The support brackets are actually easy to install. Just bolt up the brackets to the motors and snug up just enough so they will hold position with a little friction, then swing them up to the body and drill through the holes in the brackets where they make contact. Drop the bolts down from above and then thread on the nuts from below. They designed them so they hit the floor in places that are easily accessible once you pull the storage bin surround, which takes only a minute or 2. Then tighten it all down.

I am surprised about the issues, too, especially with my frame. It's like AMP didn't really do a detailed physical mock-up on a double cab and just assumed it was the same as a Crew Cab... except for cutting the boards down.

 

5/16" drill bit

 

@ChucklesToy, I went under quickly today to check and snug up bolts and those security torx bolts for the braces are T27, not T25. It is a 1/4x20 bolt, and the nut takes a 7/16" wrench or socket... 11mm should also work. No big deal but maybe this info saves you an extra up and down and trip to the toolbox. I know my old body appreciates every one of those saved. LOL. Sad, but true.

 

Yes it will save my knees.

 

Just installed the AMP research extreme boards and cannot get them to work. As soon as I put the fuse in, the passenger front motor raised. Nothing else. Noe that side is in a bind. Opening and closing doors do nothing on either side. Driver side just stays down. I have checked the wires and cant find anything. Any ideas?

 

You might try unplugging the OBD2 connector and then plugging it back in. Then maybe give the AMP controller some time to "think" and rest itself. But IDK, mine worked immediately after inserting the fuse. And again a couple days later I installed the pass through OBD2 harness to reconnect my ScanGage 2 and the AMP steps worked immediately when I plugged it back in.

Maybe post a picture of your posi-tapped wires in the kick panel so we can check if they are the correct ones. And it is possible that one or both of those may not be making contact. Try redoing them, maybe?

Also, I believe we did have one instance here where a member had to get a new OBD2 connector sent out from AMP, but I don't recall what his symptoms were.

 

I have redone the blue and white wire multiple times. Now all my lights on the dash are on. I'm not sure the AMP controller works.

Are the 2 purple wires supposed to be HOT feeding the OBD@ connector? Something is seriously messed up.

 

IDK what logic they have programmed the controller for, but I suspect those wires would show either +12v or ground to the AMP controller depending on the state of the front doors, open or shut. But if so, I wouldn't know which way it is set up.

 

Both of the purple wires that come from the controller are HOT and I dont think they should be either. Now all the alarms on my truck are going crazy when I start it and I have zero use for the steps. Guess I will have to take everything off before I go to dealer if I cant figure this out. This sucks.

 

Unplug the AMP connector and then try disconnecting the truck battery for a bit. Maybe that will correct the problems with the truck.

 

Disconnected battery and corrected some of the alarms but not all. I really think there is something wrong with the Controller. Besides the 2 purple wires being hot, there is no ground coming from the controller for the LED. If anyone has an actual wire schematic, that would be very helpful.