AMP research power running boards?

That would make sense about the patent. Lately it seems like there are a lot more power steps on the market

 

Hey guys I just installed amp boards on my dad’s 24 tundra and then on my 17 tundra. Both within 10 days. Both installs went well and the boards work great. I recommend amp boards for two reasons. They have been around for a long time and no magnets. The boards for the 24 tundra are more robust and I like how they mount better than mine. Both were plug and play but did have to tap two wires for the 24 tundra. If anyone has any questions let me know I’d be happy to help out.

 

what AMP model did you install on the ‘24 Tundra? What model is the ‘24 Tundra? The AMP steps I bought were the “Extreme” which have 2 motors on each side listed as for 2022 - 2023, and ny Tundra is a ‘24 Limited Crewmax.

By the way, both AMP Research and Go Rhino are Realtruck brands.

 

Thanks for your feedback. It’s good to know about the reviews. I couldn’t find much about them. I might try them once I refund is processed by Realtruck for the AMP steps that are in my garage.

 

So the truck is a sr5. The boards were the standard boards one motor each side. Not the extreme or the xl. Honestly I’m not 100 percent sure the exact model as my mom ordered them I just installed them. But like I said one motor each side and not the xl version

 

Thanks for this contact info. I am going to call them next week with some questions. First will be if they are going to have a non-PnP version in the future since the PnP is anything but. It cracks me up how their advert says that the PnP makes it so you don't have to tap individual door trigger wires... but then it requires that you mess around under the kick panel and electrical panel plugs to tap the same number of wires there. It would actually be far easier and neater to tap door trigger wires in the looms under the door sill plates as the non-PnP versions for the older models. That is what I would prefer, even if I have to wait. I'll let you know what I find out.

 

Seems like you have figured out how to get them to work when the doors open. I can't for the life of me figure that part out. Can you share where you wired the 2 purple wires and the white and blue wires?

 

I'm sorry but I could not tell you. I had them installed at the local Campway.

 

Can you share where you wired the 2 purple wires and the white and blue wires? I have a 24 Platinum Hybrid and looking at the provided OBD port adapter, the pins don't line up with where the Tundra's wires are on the OBDII port. I don't mind wiring them in directly, but want to make sure they're wired into the right place the first time.

 

Well, this turned out to not be very helpful. I called and asked whether a non-PNP version was in the works and they had no clue. The folks you get on this line really don't have any detailed technical knowledge at all.

I have to question Amp's design choices for the steps for our trucks. What is the point of claiming they are PnP when full PnP is not possible since you still have to tap the rear door trigger wires... and in a very inconvenient place, which is another issue (Why not tap them under the door sill?) It's like they want to sell that PnP feature and make more $ off of it... and then sell those PnP OBD bypass cables. I mean if you are already tapping the two rear door trigger wires why not just also tap the two for the front and do away with all that "PnP" rigamarole and extra hardware and cost?

 

What would this look like installed? I don't want a splitter hanging under my dash and hitting me in the legs, looking all ghetto...there's gotta be something this can be hard wired into to do the same thing, like tapping the courtesy light wire or something similar.

 

This has me thinking about the Rhino's, but I'm wondering why they're not programmed to retract only when all four doors are closed. That makes sense to me...

 

I believe they operate by side, not all 4. Saves a lot of extra cycles on the passenger side when the driver is solo.

And it also seems to me that these could be triggered from the door pin switch wires. In fact, I believe that that is what Amp is doing for the rears, even though they have you tapping them in the harness under the dash. It also seems like you could pull the pin switches and look at the wires and find the ones that show ground with doors open. Then locate those same wires in the looms under the door sill plates and just tap those. That might even work for the Rhinos since the magnetic switches just connect to ground.

 

This was helpful during my install. I just finished installing on my 2024 Limited Crewmax non hybrid. Works perfectly with all doors.

 

Which model number did you install? Did it connect OBD connector plus blue/white wires that you had to tap? How did you order them (web site and year Tundra on order)?

 

76338-01A is the model number I installed. I have a 2024 Limited crew max and yes I tapped the blue and white wire plus plugged in the ODB connector. It has been running flawlessly since install. Instructions worked well but I almost tapped the wrong harness. I had to really study the pic in the instructions and saw it was the harness tucked away in the corner and not the first one I saw when removing the kick panel.

I bought it from MJ motorsports in Hawaii.

 

Thank you. Really glad it worked out for you. Mine is also a 2024 Limited Crew which is not listed on the AMP Research/Real Trucks web page. I was advised that it was the same as

$16 2022-2023 Cup Holder Divider and Hide for 2022+ Toyota Tundra, Anti-Tipping Insert (Matt Black)

2022-2023, and ordered the Extreme which has dual motors on each side and is lower. Unfortunately, the harness that came did not have the blue/white wires and after calling AMP support, I was discouraged from even proceeding. Returned the AMPs and installed the Go Rhino. While the installation of the Go Rhino worked, the steps do not extend as low as expected and there is no delay when opening the doors. The harness is actually very tight and maybe even too short in some places. So with your success, I am contemplating going back to the AMP steps. Your details have been helpful.

 

Yeah, we have discussed this a lot in several threads. The Rhinos are pretty good... except in the ergonomics, which is what really counts. They just sit too high and close to the truck body. So, Short people have a too big step up and down, whilst long legged people have to contort themselves to get past the steering wheel and then fall down into the seat. They are essentially like fixed steps in function except that they hide away for a clean look. Honestly, at 6'1" with long leg bones I can get in and out of my truck easier without the Rhinos deployed than with them. So, I am switching to the standard AMP powersteps that sit about 3" to 4 " lower by all reports here, which should be about perfect. Mine are coming Thursday and weather permitting I'll pop them on Friday.

 

Great! Please keep me posted on your results. Did you order the same model (76338-01A) listed here and for a 2023 Tundra? Where did you order them from? Realtrucks' web site says this model is still on backorder. Due to the reasons you named, I have to put a 4" block step in place before my wife can even use the Go Rhino step to get in. In my previous Tundra, the AMP step was enough (she's short and had back surgery). Fingers crossed that it works for you!

 

Here are some pics of that helps anyone.

 

I got them from RealTruck, but the supply seems to come and go. They must be selling a ton of them. So, you just need to keep checking. If you order from them PM Santana here on the forum PM system first to get a good deal. I am not sure if you followed all that other discussion with the photos and measurements with the folks that have the Amp standard Powersteps but they come down about 3 1/2" lower than the Rhinos.

This is the link to the standard (not XL or extreme)

2023 Toyota Tundra AMP Research PowerStep | RealTruck

 

Is your Tundra stock? Are those the standard Powersteps? If so, how high does the top of the board sit from the pavement? Would be nice to have another data point from what we have already discussed.

 

FedEx came early and the weather is good so I might get these AMPs on today. One difference from the Rhinos is that there is some pre-assembly required since the mounting brackets are not integral with the linkages... and the motors are not pre-installed to the linkages. No big deal, just a difference.

The other somewhat puzzling difference for us double cab guys is that they say to cut down the 85" boards to 75" for the DC. Whereas the Rhino E1s and all the Rhino fixed boards come in 87" for Crew Cab and 80" for DC. I am going to line it up and see what makes sense. The 80" Rhinos pretty much fill the gap between the front and rear wheel wells whereas as the AMPs at 75" will leave a gap or gaps. I might first cut them to 80" and see how that works. The only possible reason I can think of for the shorter boards for DC is the overhang which they say to set at 16". It could be that if that overhang was greater and a design weight fat guy stepped right on the end of the step, it might be at risk for bending. But IDK... and I don't see that ever happening.

 

Thanks! yes, I've been following all of the discussions of measurements. Got the message back about the discount. Now just waiting for inventory again. Every time I use the Go Rhino steps, I get inpatient to change to AMPs

 

I know. They pissed me off every single time I used them, so I ended up just turning them off. I am going to try to return the Rhinos tomorrow. It's been only 2 weeks and they are simply unsatisfactory for me. But I'll have to ship them back in the AMP box.

 

LOL... started the installation and after 5 minutes I am dead in the water. Got the drivers side front idler on then went to install the drivers side rear assembly that has the motor and it won't fit. The AMP linkages with the motors are not side specific, i.e. they are identical. So, the motor housing faces forward on the drivers side and to the rear on the passenger side. Which should not be a problem except on the drivers side there is some sort of brace that blocks the motor so the mounting bracket will not reach the body. LOL. I suspect Crew Cabs will not have that problem as the AMP bracket assembly will sit ~ 8" top the rear so will clear that brace.

 

So, I am on the AMP customer non-service line for 30 minutes already... High volume of calls, your wait is over an hour, then over 45 minutes, then over 30 minutes, then over 5 minutes, now back to over 45 minutes. LOL. Bottom line these steps DO NOT fit the Double Cab. It's like they did not actually try one, just looked at the dimensional differences and concluded that the Crew Cab model would fit if the boards were cut down. But no. They need to have side specific motor linkages with the motor on the drivers side towards the rear of the truck. Otherwise there is NO WAY this will fit.

 

Got the callback from AMP and he confirmed that they are seeing this issue with the brace now and again and not just on DC, and he confirmed if you have that brace the AMP kit won't fit. So, I am getting an RMA and sending all this back. Unbelievable.

This goes back to some of their design decisions... BAD design decisions. First, not having side specific motor drive linkages. If the motor were on the other side of the drivers unit it would fit. Then orienting the motor casing vertically where it would guarantee to interfere with anything that might be in the way... if it was rotated 90 degrees it would fit.

He said there were some engineering efforts to address this and other issues they have found but they have no idea if or when a fix will be available. Heck, it took them 3 years to get the steps out at all in the first place, so I am not holding my breath. I guess having power steps was not meant to be for me.

Before you order the AMPs, even if you have a Crew Cab, take a look at the area under the drivers side rear door. See my photo above, and if you have the brace above that hole on the right, forget about the AMPs.

 

So, it's all boxed up but I haven't called to get the RMA yet... I had another thought. I may just cut off a piece of that "brace" in the photo above to make clearance for the AMP motor. There are a few of these things that just cantilever out from the frame in various places. They are not connected to anything or seem to serve any purpose except maybe to bolt something on... but what I can't imagine. Anyway, I am gonna sleep on it and maybe tomorrow I'll get out my angle grinder and have at it.

The AMP tech said that Toyota had been throwing them some curve balls like maybe some of these frames were originally made for the hybrid or pro or whatever and they used them on some random gas trucks. Or something like that. But in this case these stubs have zero purpose.

 

I have a 24 SR5 Crew Cab and I have those same stubs on my frame. My Rough Country boards came with dual motors and they aren't in the way. The sealed module is very close to one of those stubs on the passenger side but clears and makes good protection of the wire harness. My thought is that those stubs are either for OEM accessories or used in the assembly process to hold the frame in place. It's not likely that you will need to use them for anything so if it were my truck I'd cut off what was in the way and use the AMPs. You've already come this far with research and figuring out they sit lower like you need.