What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Nice! Levitating Tundras

 

Damn son, drove it 'til the wheels fell off!

 

Oh shit, those aren't the HF jackstands known for failure and killing/maiming people are they?

​

 

Livin on the edge like Noah, put those tires under the truck!!!

 

I want to know if you have to remove any skids to do it. Iirc you have the same skids I do, minus one or two.

 

Dont you tell me how to live my life, youre not my dad

But seriously I was putting it back together had to run up to the HF for some extra long vice grips. Those chineesium bullshit abosorbers owner 5 put in the truck a fucking knackered. Dude really should be shot on the pure principle of the amount of shit he half assed and or just did plain wrong.

 

Theyre PFM baby

 

Aaaaaaaand were back. Had to put the truck back together to go this shit from the HF. The rams in the absorbers just kept spinning. Well not no more you wore out chineese shit. Daddy will not be denied

 

I went to a shop for this last alignment and one the employees tried to tell me that my cams were more than likely seized, simply because of the age of the truck. Told him that they aren't seized, as I've had multiple alignments in the last year and this time it's because of new tires...

Seemed like the guy was trying to "okay, buddy-retard" me, so I told him that if they're having problems just tell me and I'll come help. It's like, I get it, none of us actually want to work for a living, but we have to. Why not just try to do your best?

The gentleman I bought the spindles from was telling me how easy it is to do the lower bushings, too, but I still think I'd rather pay the convenience fee of installing a new assembly.

 

I love people who know more than (we) the peoole who generally turn their own wrenches. Not saying we know everything, but I used to get this with my 03 GLI. Feeling lazy, take it to the dealership for an oil change. Well our scanners are telling us X Y and Z are also wrong with you car so you'll need all of this... Orrr could it be because of the stand alone management, or the GIANT FUCKING TURBO CHARGER STRAPPED TO THE BACK THE ENGINE I PUT ON IT......

 

Got my new LED pods in. Decided to just replace both on the driver side since desert armor sent me two new pods for the one malfunctioning pod. One of the passenger side pods has moisture, it'll likely be the next to go. At least now I have a spare. Maybe they'll send me two for one again next time and I can put the old working pods on my other truck. If not, I'll make a chase light out of the spare pod.

Trying to figure out the best way to get this backup camera wire thru the rubber port under the driver seat. It was easy on my other truck, because the wire was much thinner. This wire has loom around it.
Any suggestions? Should I just knife slit the rubber open? I gotta be careful for the main harness that goes thru there

 

I guess we're all working on our trucks today. I'm taking advantage of nice weather.

When I picked this bumper in 2020 I thought BFF had an advantage here because there is no huge gap like Coastal. I was wrong. The constant rubbing on the fender caused the powder coat to fail and start rusting. I removed my bumper today thinking I would only have to do minor touch up on both sides. WRONG.



@shifty` was right about powder coating. Even in places it looked fine, as soon as I hit it with the pressure washer it flaked away to reveal it's been rusting underneath the powder coat layer. Pretty significantly too. So fuck me.

I thought I would only be fixing this area.




Instead I find this.












Now I have to decide next steps. I guess I'll have to take it to get sandblasted. Or try to do it myself. Then decide how I'm going to paint it myself.

 

Exactly. I'm not ase certified by any means, but just being on the other side of the counter doesn't automatically qualify you either.

Damn, @FirstGenVol sorry to see that.

If it makes you feel any better @shifty` was right about backing off the nut on my rear shocks. Loosened them up a bit and the ride is much better.

 

Changed my oil and filter in the balmy 38F degree weather. Noticed a small 2” puddle and wondered how I spilled since I was pretty meticulous about it.

Put the container 1/2 filled with oil in my 1/2 bath. (Drips on floor are easily wiped up and prying neighbors don’t get to see me storing used oil).

Then I realized in one area of the bottom of the plastic container, it ate through much of the plastic internally that it was flimsy in one corner where I scrapped it on the ground and got a pinhole leak. Fuck me. I thought these things last forever. Guess not.

 

Why don’t they make them in aluminum, or do they? The selection must be poor if they do.

 

I went through 2 sets of NFab step bars getting warrantied for finish failure before they just refunded my money but they also offer the Lifetime Warranty on the finish.

If you've got a shop nearby that does a hot tank paint stripping see how much they'll charge to strip and coat it.

Maybe add some rubber weatherstripping on the fender corner when you reinstall.

 

No bumper and zip tied fog lights. I feel like @Mr.bee



Side note. I should have bought a subcompact impact sooner. It's so much easier to work with. I just wish it had a detent pin anvil.

 

I'm not familiar with this. What type of coating would they apply?

 

If I were you. Paint it with steel it and. Neutralize all the rust first.

 

I did both

 

Hey hey hey, my jack stands are 6 tonners by big red from the local Rurally bling, my Daytona floor jack on the other hand....

 

I think I would drill drain holes anywhere water might accumulate and sit.

 

Have four 6 ton MVP Superlifts (T-6906WM) for like two decades now IIRC.

 

Honestly most of the places it's rusting are on a slope. I'm starting to think this was just a shitty powder coating job. The P.C. on my skid plates are holding up great.

 

Anyone try the alignment themselves? Was going to after recent shock upgrade but don't currently have a level surface ... and shop checked it and was still within specs.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-to-do-an-alignment-at-home.136/

 

So do you all cross rotate regularly or just front to back?

 

Are the Akebonos semi-met? Maybe there's a good reason for side bevel cuts but seems like cost cutting and less stopping surface? Especially noted this on some of the Toy ceramics too in the past. But the recent AZ200s (Advics) had full pad width.

 

Do a toe set with tape measure. Between 1/16"-1/8" toe in total is good. 1/16" is about where you want to be, but a touch more is ok.

See that happen on tacos, 4runners, etc. Even in a non-rusty area.

 

HF has blasting tools

Blasting gun with bucket
https://hftools.com/app37025

Hood
https://hftools.com/app62378

Gloves (or used welders)
https://hftools.com/app04468

 

As long as its just an alignment and not camber, 4 2x4s and a square will get you there