3rd Gen non JBL sound system Upgrade Info

If you end up not using an amp that has built in pre-outs, then you would just tap an extra pair (left and right) of speaker wires to your front speakers and run that set of high level to the sub amp, assuming you get a sub amp that accepts high level inputs.

 

So, the amp itself has a low pass that separates the preamp sub output. If that is so, it seems that a 5-channel amp could do the same thing, low pass out the bass and send it internally to the sub amp section without needing anything connected to the sub inputs. Maybe not al l5-channel amps but surely some of them.

 

the JL Audio just has a low voltage pre-output, it is not crossed over (low pass) and is full frequency. The sub amp crossover would then be used to filter out the mid and high frequencies. There probably are some 5 channel amps that only require 4 sets of inputs high level, low level, or both and will internally sum the inputs for the sub woofer. Once you think you have figured out what you want to use, let me know and I can look at it and let you know the best way to connect everything. I have never used a 5 channel amp for any of my personal vehicles, just due to preferences, mine mainly due to the need for more power on the sub output than the 5 channel amp would produce.

 

I have a 5-channel amp installed. Like most 5-channel amps you can feed it the traditional 4 line or high level inputs and it sums a 5th signal for the subwoofer. Most all have crossovers and subsonic filters or bass boost.

The problem I had with feeding high-level input from the OEM headunit to the amp was noise. I don't know if it was the amp incapable of processing the high-level correctly or just too much voltage from the OEM headunit for it to handle, but there was a noticeable static hiss noise. After installing a converter and utilizing line-level inputs that issue has been resolved.

So try the high-level first and see if the amp puts out clean sound. Then you can always install a converter if it doesn't.

 

From your photos, I see you have the blue remote turn on wire to both amps. Did you add an aftermarket head unit that provides that, or did you just tap a +12v switched circuit somewhere? Where? I suppose you could find one easily enough under the driver's kick panel... or in the passenger side fuse box.

 

Remote trigger pulled from the head unit. I used a harness from * https://autoharnesshouse.com/ * that sent power and remote to my Audiocontrol LC7-I and that in turn used as a remote to go to the amps.

 

Where did you mount the LC7?

Harness Dr lists only GMC and Chevy. No products for Toyota??

 

sorry you are correct, harness Dr I used on my old truck. It’s from here:
https://autoharnesshouse.com/

I emailed them with what I was looking for and they squared me away with the 28pin harness.

LC7 is under driver seat but I’m likely to relocate it back where I have my JY Power and battery isolator on the passenger side back cabin

 

Makes sense. I also see that TT also has a harness for that. Should make it easy. After Max, Krissymatt and your input I am leaning towards doing a pretty beefy JL Audio 5-channel and a LC5i pro. Although Crutchfield has a nice smaller and cheaper Kenwood Excelon that would probably be plenty for me. I'd mount the LC5 in the back near the amp with the remote bass control on the console.

Kenwood Excelon X802-5 X Series 5-channel car amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield

 

I am trying to make sense of this... It looks like you have the subwoofer pushed back beyond the back wall. The subwoofer is 18.5" in that long dimension and the entire front to rear span of the bin is not much more than that or even that much at all... and there is a ramp in the front part that would keep the sub from fitting vertically if pushed up front.

Is this this sub? I was excited to find one that fit so well but I don't want to hack up the panel.

Audison Prima 10 in. Dual 4 4 ohm Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure: APBX10DS (classiccarstereos.com)

 

So, I am narrowing down my plans and like this amp. I'd first try without a line level converter by directly using the speaker high level inputs. And it comes with a sub remote control that connects up with a phone plug. But this raises that same question we discussed a bit earlier. Does this amp internally sum the and A and B inputs and then send the signal internally to the sub amp, or would I still need to tap them externally and plug into the sub inputs? It looks to me like the switch labeled "input selector" might be what I am talking about. If it is in "A&B" this should happen internally, correct? Then you'd use "Sub" only if you were bringing it in from a pre-amp source. Does that make sense?

Kenwood Excelon XR901-5 Reference Series 5-channel car amplifier — 60 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield

 

This amp only accepts low level (RCA) inputs. There is a switch on it to internally sum A/B channels for the subwoofer so you'd just need front and rear inputs. In order to make this work, you'd need a line level converter.

If you are looking for something that has speaker level inputs, then these are in the same price and power range:
JL Audio RD900/5- you would also need to buy (2) of these to use speaker level input- JL Audio XD-CLRAIC2-SW
Infinity Reference 7005A or JBL Club A5055 (same amp just different brand logo- both owned by Harman Intl)
MTX JackHammer JH7005- you would also need to buy (2) speaker level to RCA converters as well-

$12 Rockford Fosgate RFiF2SW Speaker Line to Female RCA Adapter

Rockford Fosgate RFiF2SW

Edit- I just found the owners manual for the Kenwood, and it says you can use a pair of speaker to RCA converters as well. It wasn't initially indicated like the others

 

This KW does take speaker level inputs. Just need 4 of those plugs that convert the speaker wires from the harness to RCA jacks.

 

OK, I went to the user manual and it that is indeed what this switch does. In AB it internally sums the signals from the 4 channel line level inputs and provides the input for the sub internally, so no external connection required.

 

Yeah, I edited my post after looking through the owners manual

 

I am getting close. I just need to go measure my space again and pick one of the subwoofers I listed in this other thread. One of them is the same 10" Audison that Krissymatt has. I'd mount whichever one I pick in the other orientation (transversely long dimension) and it should fit in that center shallow section of the storage bin. I still need to double check all the measurements to confirm, and mock up a cardboard model. Honestly, the hardest part of this job will be figuring out how to get all the panels off. I hate that part. I am kind of leaning towards this one: JL Audio CS110LG-TW3 Sealed PowerWedge™ enclosure with one 10" TW3 subwoofer at Crutchfield. It is about the same form factor as a tool set I usually carry there.

subwoofer enclosure | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Getting the panels off are easy with the right tools, buy yourself some extra panel clips on Amazon before you start. Some are bound to get broken- Murphy's Law lol

 

The problem is knowing where the clips are, which direction to pull or pry, and how hard to pry. I have some clips from my old Tacoma somewhere that may be the same. Of course, the second time it would be easy... except there won't be a second time. LOL.

 

There's some decent You Tube videos showing how to disassemble things if you get stuck. Remember, where there are seams in the panels or where color changes, one panel is overlaid on the other. Those are generally the ones you have to pry a little harder on. Sometimes they aren't held together with the white clips but interlocked.

 

It's all good until you force it and break the slot in the panel or body that holds the clip. :-(

 

Yeah bro. just cut out that back part of the bin. I cut a little bit too much, and it kinda bothers my OCD, but its under the seat and never seen. There's like another 7-8 inches of space behind the bin that is just empty. IDK how else you get a sub in the truck and save some of the underseat storage.

 

I think that 6.25" depth dimension with the grill is gonna be an extra tight fit.

 

Yeah, tight but should be OK. It looks like 7" total depth except at the front where it ramps up. And the double cab rear is too small to put fat humans in so nothing to crush it. I'll mock it up before I order anything. Yours is essentially the same depth.

As for other options, TeeTee and others make a purpose built enclosure that removes and replaces those rear plastic panels, single or dual 10". They have CM version but not yet for DC. Not sure that I want to go that crazy.

I have the 17' harnesses and remote power turn on harness coming. Worth the $ not to have to cobble something together.

 

7-8 inches back there? Heck, maybe I could just mount that JL Audio shallow sub or similar behind the panels facing forward. That would be even cleaner and not impact storage. Assuming I can get those damn panels off. LOL.

 

It's not a cuboid shape behind the seat. Plus there is all kinds of bracketry and such to work around. If you fold your seat forward you'll notice how the panels taper in depth as they rise from the floor to the back window. DoubleCab might have more space because of no roll down window, but I don't assume that its enough to squeeze a sub in there.

The area I'm talking about on the floor where there is 7-8", is directly behind the bin on a CrewMax. I would guess that the height is 6-6.25" for this area.

You can look at that goofy ass Taco box and see how they tried to maximize volume, but its a huge challenge because of all the complex angles and the depth challenges due to the tapering shape of the back wall. Even with shallow subs, their magnets + thickness of box material + excursion area for the cone = a tough fit behind the rear seat in a tundra. On another post, someone did a calc on their box dimensions and determined there's no way they have the needed volume for two 10s, much less a single 10.

This will all become clear to you once you remove that backseat and then pop the trim panels off and see for yourself.

 

@raylo you are going to be very limited on choices for prefab period. You're either going to have to give up space under the back seat or go with something behind the seat. The big issue behind the seat is that the angle is so sharp you have a very limited amount of depth to fit a sub. Like @KrissyMattAlpha noted there are also brackets and other shapes that have to be reckoned with. Same goes for under the seat. The thing with the pre-fab boxes that go behind the back seat is you have to remove the trim panels to wedge and fit the box in place then you have exposed metal of the truck visible because the trim has been removed. Not really a clean look IMO. Plus you are limited to subs that have 3" of depth or less. @KrissyMattAlpha has maximized space by cutting out the back part of the under seat storage to fit their pre-fab box. If you want to save space under the seat, this is really your only option. Right now I have my old JL Audio Stealthbox from my Tacoma just sitting in my underseat storage bin, and it takes up half of the bin on the driver side. I'm eventually going to build my own custom box for a single Hertz 12" shallow depth sub to go in my storage bin which will take up the whole bin, but I figure if I would have bought a Hybrid, I wouldn't have been able to use that space anyway.

 

What it might come down to is if we sacrifice some of that underseat storage space and really need more, we can get a SwingCase for the bed. I had one in my Tacoma and it worked out great. You can even do one on each side if you need more storage.

 

When I had my Tacoma, I only used the underseat storage for ratchet straps and med kit. When going camping or shooting out in the desert I just piled everything on the back seat and floorboards and in the bed. One thing I really miss from the Tacoma was the small built in storage cubby on the passenger side in the bed. I used that to hold all my dirty and dusty straps that I used often. I have a soft cover on my bed so if I need to transport gear that doesn't exceed my bed height at least I can keep it secure and out of sight and dry. There's still some space behind the rear passenger set for smaller things as well.

 

Thank you for the feedback. Thanks to your input I was able to upgrade all the doors. Question I have is about the dash speakers. You mentioned they are 3" speakers. Thing is there really isn't a whole lot of speakers available in that size. Mostly I see the 3.5". What brand did you go with for the 3"? Again thank you for taking the time to write this up!

 

you can fit 3.5s, some may just require you to mount in a bracket to fit properly. I went with focal 165 F3Es on mine