What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I start mine tomorrow, I work Tuesday to Saturday.

 

Got it! At least one anyway.

 

But I did 7 out of 8 things today, #7 got done last week. Also I cleaned the MAF sensor, did a test drive, no more System Bank One to low CEL. Well see how long that lasts. If not were gonna start replacing vacuume lines

 

Peanut butter and glue, never fails

 

Really liked the cheap seat heaters that I added to my Ferd so me Tundie got a set too. Threw them in today before going to work for a little overtime.




Forgot to throw the link in.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CP9SSDFH?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

You can swap the hinge from the new door onto the old door if you still have it. Just have to bend the tabs out, then you still have the paint matched door without having to deal with painting the new one. That's the route I went after someone else recommended it (I forget who)

 

wait 2 miles.

 

I think you may need to excuse yourself and ummm handle that

 

Did it poop on the cheese?

 

When trying to articulate you're just more likely to hit the wheel wells and there may be some body flex, that's it. But no, a suspension lift kit doesn't change whether you'll hit the top of the wheel wells or not.

With a suspension lift you are changing the static ride height and the range of motion, or the ratio of down-travel to up-travel. If you crank up your ride height a bunch, you'll limit the amount of down-travel available, but at full up-travel the tire will still go to the same place in the wheel well.

Most aftermarket shocks do have a little bit of extra travel, but that just allows you to go to a slightly higher ride height from what stock would provide, while keeping the same ratio of down-travel to up-travel.

Spacing your bump-stops with bigger tires will prevent you from hitting the top of the wheel wells, but then you're limiting the amount of up-travel you have. Combine that with cranking the ride height and you're really limiting the shock's usability range.

Stock ride height with 33's will rub much sooner than 3" ride height lift and 33's, but lifting doesn't prevent you from rubbing at all.

More of a choosing the right wheel or wheel spacer issue than a suspension thing. Also remember, the space between the UBJ/spindle and tire does not change while the suspension moves.

Here's a very useful video:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/33VewJFda1Q

 

Thanks. Looks like someone found some here that worked well
https://www.tundras.com/posts/3327673/
But they don't seem to have them for AC now.
https://www.millsupply.com/auto-body-rust-repair-panels/toyota/tundra/

 

I picked up some used gear today, too!

I'm just keeping the knuckles, so if anyone wants/needs stock ucas and abs sensors from an 05, hit me up.

 

It was open for so long I think that's what finally gave up, but I still have the other pcs so I'll check it out! Good idea.

 

another useful video: 4 tips to ACTUALLY fit tires on Toyota IFS. 33’s no BMC

https://youtu.be/LAYGdcKSA3o?si=EOJjq6sd-Wv5QoTF

 

Hold onto those damn sensors, they cost a fortune. If you plan to toss 'em, I'll cover the ride.

Pestilence.

 

Noice!

 

Replaced my intake manifold gaskets. AGAIN. Ironman is back up to sub-par again. Of course my serpentine belt started squeaking. Took about 3 hours going slow and taking pics. I had to pull the manifold 3 times cause my stupid ass dropped a bolt into the valley. TWICE. I was thinking of doing a detailed write up if y'all wanted.

 

I forgot one more variable, spring rate. I think I mentioned preload.
Anyways I feel like we're saying the same thing for the most part. I'm just not that good at explaining stuff haha

 

You could probably recite it from memory, sorry you been to hell and back @bmf4069

 

Yeah, never failed with PB. This is one of those multi traps where they can keep going in but not out, one time in an old car I set one and forgot to check for a couple days, when I did check there was one greasy deranged looking mouse in the corner and two or three half eaten bodies around it, it had the taste so I let it go ;-)

 

I don't have a need for them, but definitely won't toss em. I made the mistake of throwing away other parts before.

Fool me once shame on me, fool me twice can't get fooled again.

 

Changing spring rate or adjusting preload does not allow you to clear bigger tires either.

Preload and the equipped springs determine your ride height. What preload measures, is the amount of spring that is still compressed at full extension of your shock. Kings for example use 14" springs. If you want to determine the preload, jack a tire off the ground and measure how long the spring is. 14" minus your measurement results in your preload amount.

Tundras have a motion ratio of around 2.0, meaning for every inch of preload that should lift the truck by two inches. If you don't get the desired ride height from whatever preload you set at (for 5100s, this is the perch settings), then you need to change the spring rate and get heavier springs.

 

Shouldn't that be expessed the other way around? 1.5 or 2:1 ratio. I got about 3/8-1/2" of lift with a 1/4" leveling spacer.

 

I split the intake open too. Gross. I really, really wanted to put it in the dishwasher, but I just wanted to get it running again. After looking at my injectors, I think it's time to give Keith a call. So I'll get to pull the intake again. I think I'm going for the "removed intake manifold the most" record at this point.






















Look at how rough the ports are!

 

Might be time for the plastic manifold too.

 

I've been thinking about it. I haven't done enough research on it yet. God that would make it easier to pull out though.

 

The good news is that you won't have to pull the manifold to do the injectors.