BMC in Portland

Which shop is the most experienced with Toyota BMCs in or near Portland? Not looking for your typical Overland shop with amateur welders. Need this done to my 3rd gen and not used to paying anyone to do any work on my vehicles, except when it comes to welding. Pics of their work and welds would help if you have it.

 

I’ve got a couple people that could help. Chris at total offroad in Tigard (formally know as 4whp) or Nick in Vancouver. Chris has welded a few things on my rig and needless to say I use it.
https://www.instagram.com/adventurefab?igsh=MXZ3eXFrcGt6NXVwNA==

 

I was just going to suggest you to the OP.

 

Thanks for the tips. I'll give TO a call and maybe get on their books since they're close to me. I'll take any other names in the interim if people have any.

 

Is this for the horn chop?

I'm get ready to do mine this weekend or next. Depending on how long it takes, I'd be willing to help with yours if it's not too complicated.

I did all the panhard bar relocation brackets and body mount relocation brackets on my GX470 and it was pretty simple so I expect this will be similar.

I don't weld professionally but I've been doing it for about 20 years. My neighbor does however weld professionally so anything tricky, I just call him over.

 

Body mount chop bit different than the horn on your year.

 

That's what I thought, but the OP said he had a 3rd gen, which is what I have and will be chopping. I haven't read anything about guys doing a BMC on the 3rd gen though, hense the clarification. I'm new to the 3rd Gen world though so it may be something guys are doing and I just hadn't heard.

Either way, once I do mine and know what's involved, I can offer free assistance.

 

I haven't had it done yet but I plan on sticking with 35's until I long travel. I'm just seeing who my options are for the BMC when I need it. I barely rub the felt liner on tight right turns but I didn't really cut or pin that back much since I've been lazy. And once I get motivated enough to spend a day to install the suspension kit I've had sitting in the garage, it'll be a non-issue.

 

Long travel you say.. Let me know if you have questions on that front. Im in Beaverton. There's a few things in general you'll need to account for when going this direction and this applies cross both platforms.

 

Appreciated! Long travel isn't new to me as I've gone through a couple different kits and shock packages when I had my FJ Cruiser. I had a Wicked Creations rear 3-link kit about to go on as well, which I ended up selling to a guy up in Washington after I decided to sell the FJ to get the Tundra. That being said, I'm all ears if you have any good pro-tips for long traveling the Tundra platform, especially the rear since bed cages will be somewhat new to me.

I've seen your truck around and it caught my eye since I first saw it when it had the white glass. We must be nearby. It's a kick-ass truck!

 

Did you have the white FJ? Yea, I'm in progress ridge

 

Yeah, white FJ with glass fenders. I'm across from Mountainside HS.

 

Awesome! Nice to finally meet you. Excited to see yours come together

 

You as well. I'm not known to be very active on forums but I'm sure I'll see you around. Good knowing there's some Tundra expertise close by.

 

Done and done.

There isn't a body mount chop to do in the traditional sense like on an FJ, Tacoma, GX, 4Runner, ect. There's a "horn" for lack of a better term and there's a bracket that's held on by two 12mm bolts that from my research is there to protect the body seam from collapsing during a crash that forces the tire into the wheel well.

Most people that I saw discuss this piece just unbolted it and pulled the fender liner back and it off the horn.

I personally didn't like that route so I pulled the metal bracket, cut 1.25" from the center then welded the top back into the body. 1.25" made it flush with the body mount so no additional cutting would have made any additional clearance and I still have the crash protection (and a factory retaining clip hole for the fender liner, but more clearance).

I then cut the horn off and ground down the the area. I haven't decided if I'm going to fab up and weld on a block off plates or smooth that area to the frame. There appears to be no benefit to the block off plates as there's boxes frame behind it. It would just be a matter of aesthetics.

In total, I gained 2.75" of clearance at the far inner radius of tire travel, and 1.25" of clearance at the wheels apex (when turned towards the cab).








No pictures of the finished product unfortunately. It started pouring and I had to get my tools and welder inside.

 

Thanks for sharing. I already removed the brackets but I have some plates to weld up to the cut steel to clean it up a bit, which is why I'm looking for a good welder. It an easy job for anyone who can weld to weld on a couple 1/8" steel plates but I prefer to have someone with good technique that can MIG some consistent lines.

I have new wheels and larger tires en route so this will be getting done a bit sooner than later.

 

It would definitely be an easy weld job to do. I just don't really see the point since it's welded to the frame and the frame isn't scalloped or relief cut there.

If anything, you'll be cutting something that was factory welded, and machine painted. After prepping it and welding a plate back on that heat is going to radiate and melt/bubble paint. My concern is you won't be able to get the scale and burnt paint off the back (inside of the cut down horn/frame) and that area can't be painted. There's no access. So you risk creating a potential rust collection point so you can have the block off plate, which serves no purpose besides looks.

I have the Wescott block off plates too but I'm definitely not installing those. They're too small and can only be installed if you leave about 1.5" or so inches of the horn. I have access to a CNC plasma cutter and could fab some plates that match the footprint of the horn, and look nice, but I'm struggling to justify the work/rust hazard.

Additionally, I'm finding that the more of Toyotas automated welds I can remove, the better the frame looks!

 

I had it done on my taco at Das Mule in Tualatin and they did a very good job, I'd take my Tundra there in a heartbeat for something like this