2Tall’s Super White Crewmax

Interested in a tune myself. What exactly is needed for it? Do you need a control module or just hook directly to obd

 

The route I went nothing was needed besides time and cash. I met him locally, so he used his personal laptop, OBD interface, and battery charger. Took about an hour because he had to update my truck’s calibration file to the newest one before he could flash the first tune to it. Just look for someone local-ish to you and it’s a simple process.

 

Notice any changes in mileage?

 

Picked this DD hitchmount pod up from @memario1214 at Hotshot Offroad during their recent sale. It’s a super simple and nearly tool-less install. I’ve become a big fan of Diode Dynamics, they are a great middle ground between cheap China options and high end stuff like Baja Designs.

Only things I needed for install. The included zip ties suck, they broke immediately.

The harness is plug and play once you disconnect the harness from the backside of trailer connection. Tied up the harness to some existing holes in the bed sheet metal.

Routed through the hitch and another zip tie securing it to the license plate light harness.

Weatherproof connector for easy removal.

Then it just slides in and snaps in place.

Let there be light!

I need to pick up a locking hitch pin for some extra security, but for now I’m completely satisfied with the install.

 

Finally got around to rotating my tires today, so I replaced the front bump stops while I had to wheels off. Wheeler’s included everything needed except pliers to remove the factory ones.


The wheels got a full scrub down including the backside while they were off. Finished them off with Meguiar’s hybrid ceramic spray wax. Also finally put on the new center caps I got during Black Friday from Method. They’re a little lower profile than the old ones, not flush but much better.


Planned on doing the rear bump stops and an AAL but realized I needed different U-bolts so that’s on hold.

 

How do you like the Maxis Razr tires?

 

No real complaints honestly. They are wearing pretty good, ever so slightly louder hum than the BFG KO2s I had before but substantially better wet road performance. I’ve never had them in any rough off-road conditions but they do well on dirt roads and muddy lots and fields.

 

Thanks. They seem like a newer brand but overall well reviewed.

Price wise they are pretty dang competitive. What lift do you have? Any trimming to get the 295's to fit?

 

The Eibach coilovers lifted the front about 2 inches, so almost level front to rear. The front little flap and some heat gun work on plastic area where it was mounted and it doesn’t run in day to day driving.

 

Good to hear! I'm on Bilstein 6112's and leveled at 1.9" of front lift. Nice to know that the 295's will fit without too much work.

 

Lookin good so far

 

Decided to do a little interior vacuum/detail and install some parts I picked up on EBay. Wrecking yard Limited fake wood dash pieces and some door sill protectors. I know the wood isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but I like how it changed up the interior of the SR5.

 

I actually like the wood with the all black interior. Those door sill protectors look really grippy, perfect for my kids. Do you have factory ones under there or did you not have any door sill protectors from the factory?

 

No factory ones, that’s why I went with those. I had the oem ones on my last tundra and these provide more coverage.

 

I’ve been slacking on keeping this updated so here’s the highlights.

Late October I got around to installing the Wheeler’s Off-road superbumps, add a leaf, and u-bolts. Also added a carrier bearing spacer from Toytec. It came up about 1.5” from before, before with the Eibachs it was .5” higher in the rear. Now it’s pretty close to 2” in the rear. Hopefully it’s just right to help out when towing and hauling.

The ride quality wasn’t greatly affected by the add a leaf, but still haven’t towed anything significant to see how much it helped there. Also had it re-aligned shortly after, had some outer wear on the tires. First shop I used after first installing the front lift just did toe and left the camber way out. Steers and tracks much straighter now. Hopefully the tire wear evens out.

Today I spent the morning installing TRD LED headlights with the help of @iHacker harness. His work is well above oem quality and made it a painless install. Ready to see the difference tonight.


Approaching 50k trouble free miles pretty soon. Probably doing all the fluids at that service. Diffs, T-case, trans and PS drain and fill, plus the usual stuff. Not looking forward to dropping the skids for all that.

 

Looking great! I need to do my belly fluids soon and am not looking forward to taking the cat plates off, its making me procrastinate.

 

I was going to wait closer to 50k miles for the trans cooler and drain/fill, but had some free time this morning and 49,255 is close enough.

I use Max Life in all my vehicles it’s compatible with and no issues. Use whatever flavor tickles your pickle.


Came across this add-on cooler from an Aussie company Wholesale Automatic Transmission. Ordered it from Cruiser Brothers as they’re one of the only US distributors I could find.


Bolts in place using factory threaded holes and a few open holes in the lower part.


Figured out the best routing and used the Dremel to make a hole in the air deflector thing.


Ran the hoses through the core support back to the factory hard lines. The rest of my cooler install was all OEM Toyota parts.


Peaks out slightly behind the grille but not too obvious.


Drained the pan and pumped in a little over 5 quarts but not quite 5.5. Followed all the usual instructions for checking level and got probably 1/8 or less quart out.

I pieced my cooler parts together using OEM parts all the way up to the cooler and hoses between it and the hardliners. I planned to make my own bracket and source my own cooler to save even more money, but I liked the quality of the cooler.

I was regularly seeing temps over 200 on the interstate during the winter. I’ll monitor and see how much the cooler brings it in check. Also sent off a sample to Blackstone for analysis.

 

Finishing up what I can on fluids so I can put the skid plates back on.
-Engine oil and filter
-Cleaned air filter
-Tire rotation and PSI
-Front diff oil change
-T-case oil change


Fill and drain plugs on the front diff came out without much hassle. Oil didn’t look to bad, but decent amount of fuzz on the magnet.


Everything came off fine, nothing super gritty or chunky.


Everything else went along without issue. Just waiting on a gallon of gear oil to get here for the rear diff to finish up 50k fluid change out.

 

I have been looking at transmission coolers and piecing together my own kit. The cooler mounting bracket is the only really item holding me up.

@2Tall Do you think there will be any issues with the condenser and the size of the the cooler? It looks like you just mounted the horn on the backside of the cooler? Overall it looks like a very clean install. I wish that Genuine Cooling would sell just the bracket to the DIY crowd.

Anyone know the downside, if any to painting the cooler black?

 

I don’t see there being a significant difference on the condenser performance. Earlier tundras used a similar setup for a trans cooler and numerous other trucks I’ve owned had coolers mounted ahead of the condenser and radiator.

There is an extra tab where the horn was supposed to mount on the cooler bracket. I just flipped the horn around on the factory bracket and kept it in the same spot sandwiched between the cooler bracket and core support.

I’ve seen people do light coats of black paint on aluminum radiators to kill the bright color. Again not sure of how significant the effects are on cooler efficiency with that but I wouldn’t think it’s too big of a difference to notice.

 

Thanks, this is very helpful. It’s interesting they don’t drill the bracket to mount the cooler with the inlet/outlet on the side to face the passenger side to reduce the bend on the rubber lines.

The setup looks factory like.

 

I used Eastwood radiator spray paint and its very thin and covers well, based on the numbers that other people on the forum have shared, i dont think there is any significant impact to the cooling with the paint on it. It really makes it blend in compared to the bright aluminum.

 

How has the Tuffy Console safe held up? Been eyeballing one...

 

That Max Life compatible with Toyota WS fluid??

 

No issues, and this is second truck I’ve had it installed in. Pretty basic but should keep all but the most dedicated thief out.

Bottle says it is and my internet research found many people using it in Toyotas with no issues. Oil discussion is always a hot topic on automotive forums. I’m in the camp of use decent oil and change it regularly. Not fancy stuff for me but also not getting dollar store brand.

 

Not to go too far off topic - being that it’s an Aisin transmission. I’d be curious to know if they are filled by Aisin with their fluid when built and shipped or if Toyota has them filled with the WS fluid. The Aisin fluid was around $7 a quart last I looked on Rockauto. For most people, I believe ease of availability plays a big factor of getting the fluid from a local auto parts store.

 

Drained and filled the rear diff and couple days ago. Also topped off the front diff since the 2 quarts I had on hand left if slightly below the fill port.


Finished dumping all the used fluids at the parts store and picked up a WIX carbon cabin air filter.


Treated her to a fuel tank of gas to wrap up 50k mile service. On to adding on more miles and mods.

 

Got my Blackstone results back a few days ago. Engine oil was basically the same as the last test I did back at 40k or so.


Trans results were a little more interesting. I rarely tow anything significant, heaviest load was a classic 66 Mustang on a U-Haul trailer once. Maybe the oversized tires most of its life contributed, but definitely glad I did the pan drain and added the cooler. Now I’m considering another pan drain and fill at 60k.

 

Switching up the look for an OEM Plus style. FB marketplace TRD OR wheels and 285/75-18 Toyo AT3s. Tall, skinny tires and less wheel poke. Probably putting stock mud flaps back soon too.

 

Time for an update before I forget some of this stuff. Back in June I found a puddle under my truck I assumed was AC condensation at first. Then I realized it was oil of some sort.


My first thought was engine oil but then realized it was coming from the drivers side.


Then I thought maybe front diff since it was serviced recently. But it wasn’t that either.


Driver front shock blew and puked most of the oil out the top.


A few emails and pics to Eibach and they sent out a replacement shock for the coilover. Swapped over the spring and top hat no issues. I don’t seriously offroad the truck, just fairly well maintained forest roads and pastures. Never any abnormal bottom outs or hits that I believe would’ve caused it. Just happy Eibach stood behind their product and got a replacement sent my way quickly.


Added a third Rocky Mount for my thru axle bike to the front rail with a couple stainless t-slot nuts and Allen heads.