Yellow Box Speedo Calibrator

Did you make this plug n play yet???

 

If @empty_lord hasn't gotten it yet, I wonder if @daveeasa may have the apropos connectors?

I've been thinking about YB'ing my truck as well now I've got 32.2s on it.

 

Anyone have a photo?

 

See reply #1 but don't ask me which connector is in question.

 

So, we are talking about the yellr harness? The one you can buy from them? I have two of those for each of my RC’s

I’m guessing a different connector than the one my trucks use?

 

If I read correctly, I think the harness for the 4AT is potentially different from the 5AT connectors. But I may be misreading. 7 pages of posting. I dread going back through that.

 

And Yellr does not offer the 5AT harness?

 

I wasn't clear on that from prior pages. I'm not sure what @empty_lord was getting at. It looked - from earlier posts - like YB folks were willing to knock something out, but I didn't see where it happened.

I'd like to YB my truck. I'd do it, if I had a weather-resilient, easy way to do it. I would probably want to bag any exposed connector I left unplugged to prevent tarnish and add easy reversibility. I like reversible mods.

 

The connectors on my transmission are waterproof. So the yellr is sealed. No need to bag. I assume the same for you guys and your 5AT. Not like Toyota went backwards on that.

I did have switch print me a box for mounting the yellr but i decided to just route it through the grommet I already trashed for my terrible tailgate lock feed.

 

I mean, you'd need to bag whatever connector you're leaving open because the YB harness is replacing it? Or maybe I'm misunderstanding and the YB is intercepting vs. replacing.

 

It’s a T. Both ends. It modulates the output signal off the input.

 

the issue is the PCB side housing doesnt seem to exist. i just forgot about this project. its honestly something someone with 3d printing skills could probably get made easily

 

As in the Molex connector? And you want both sides there? What for?

Many of these only have wire to board on the male side.

 

The connector on the back of the Speedo

 

This is the one I could use a photo of. Given I don't own an '05 nor do I really understand what you mean about "PCB side housing".

 

id have to pop the cluster out. the 05 cluster is a PCB with the surface mount stepper motors and all that... totally different from the 04 and older trucks.

 

Here's what the back of the '05-'06 cluster looks like, only posting for reference.

@empty_lord are you saying there's no good way to tap/intercept the speedo signal where it comes in back here? Or are you saying someone would need to 3D print a whole new plastic backplate for some reason?

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The connector itself IF you wanted to make a no splice t harness like I do. You can splice in with a wire tap if you wanted

 

Why could you not just do the intercept at the other end of the run? Sorry if this is a stupid question, speed source is different on the 05-06, is there a reason you wouldn’t just use the other end of the source signal?

 

Tapping into the ABS Connector would be even more of a headache. Plus wires like this outside the car around here less to corrosion and odd wiring issues down the line

speed signal is generated at the ABS pump with the computer.

 

I know I’m a couple years late so not expecting a response but what did you do with the red wire

 

Great thread here. I assuming I need the splice harness for my 04 Sequoia. I'm assuming the wire color will be the same. Ill do more digging to find a wiring diagram for my particular year/model. I want to tap behind the gauge cluster will the length they provide be enough?

I need to see if this will work for my 2003 GX. Its off by 5 mph at 70 mph with 32's.

 

Jerry, the read wire is power if I remember correctly. You need to fuse it.

 

Think I might get one of these for my 03, because the speedo is off after going to 4.10's on stock tire size. I need to do more research first and I assume I need to figure out what percentage my speedo is off by.
Much easier when it's because of tires size, since the tire size calculators tell you.
I assume I can just figure out the percentage difference from 3.91 to 4.10, but I'm not certain.

 

A usb gps speedometer is worthwhile. Phone app works too if you have a mount.

 

Yellow Box comes with instructions/math formula on how how to accurately adjust your speedo. You don't need to know the percent difference from 3.91 to 4.10. You just need some sort of GPS speed monitor App, I used WAZE. Then you get the GPS speed and you need to write down what your physical speedometer is reading and do the math via Yellowbox.

 

Adding onto this: If your radio has CarPlay, you can setup any route in GPS and when you go to display the map on the screen, your GPS calculated speed will show up on the screen along with the current posted speed limit.

It's how I keep tabs on my actual speed now I'm running tires 2" over stock.

 

I found my iPhone speed estimate wasn’t quite as good / responsive as the cheapo usb speedometer. Based on radar stations (we have a few near us). The phone apps I’ve used tend to lag a little bit and/or smooth the data.
I also found the math to be less useful because of this than adjusting and road testing, then repeating. Hence a benchmark to compare to was helpful.
And, last, from what I observed, you can match one speed pretty close but that doesn’t necessarily mean you’re quite as close higher/lower than that target speed. So you end up forced to pick the calibration sweet spot speed.

I felt that having very accurate speed below 25 wasn’t terrible valuable, and beyond 75 it seems wasted given I don’t want to guzzle fuel or exceed the posted limit. I think I set mine up to be spot on somewhere around 50. Of course as tires wear down, or with air pressure changes or summers vs winters, you may want to re-tweak.
Hence the value of a $30 reference device.

 

Thinking back on this again for 2005-2006 trucks ...

Looping back on this again, b/c WTF, why not, right?

Is it difficult to de-pin / pop-out the necessary wire out from the 40 pin amp/TE 0.64iii connector on 2005-2006 trucks that supplies the ABs signal to the back of the cluster, and use that as the intercept?

Like this, where you'd de-pin the ABS (brown here) wire from the cluster plug, pop it into a new 1-wire adapter harness, then feed that into the yellobox, pop back into another 1-pin dapter, and re-pin that into the cluster where the original ABS brown wire was?

Or maybe there's a better way where it could be a termination harness so there's just one adapter tee that feeds in/out? I dunno, just thinking. No reason this can't be plug and plau for 2005-2006, right, with a simple de-pin?

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It’s not hard with the special tools to do it. If you depin the speed wire you could easily find a male/female connector that then can be put back into the stock housing