What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

That’s why I keep mine off when I’m not using it. I’ve kicked it a couple times.

 

Nah, I just have Muay Thai shins due to life choices.

 

Good ol Bill… and that damn TN hat

 

You might could say he was doing the "Bill Dance"

 

I know someone who rides with the hitch metal “shelf” or whatever you call it for that reason. It takes the damage instead of his jeep.

edit: I guess it’s called a “cargo carrier”.

 

Keep mine locked in with a locking hitch pin that’s keyed to the truck key. Saved me twice, once a car hit me from behind. They got punched with the ball into their front bumper / grille area and I sustained no damage. The other time I spun out on black ice and ended up backing into a concrete divider at 20mph or so. Hitch took the hit and zero damage to the bumper, tailgate or lights. Did ruin the hitch and dog ear the rear most part of the frame a little. BFH straightened that out.

 

Curt Mounting Bracket for 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector CURT Accessories and Parts C42CR (etrailer.com)

 

Well I'll be dipped. That should come in the Curt wiring harness kit! Dad's bday is in January, now I know what I'm getting him.

 

My boss and good friend is a truck enthusiast as well (he’s a Chevy guy but has much respect for the FGT). We talk trucks all the time. He knows I’m a sucker for the heritage stripes, so he got me a few goodies for Christmas. Figure I added at least 50 hp with these upgrades. I’ve had luck so far with the grille badge, I know a lot of people have had these fall off or fall apart. I’ll keep y’all updated on whether or not it stays on and in one piece.

 

Where did you get the "sticky" material you used to line the bottom of your tray in the center console, just ahead of the cup holders? And, do you like it? Does it keep stuff from sliding around? I'm trying to find something for there, and the inside of the center consoles.

 

Successful install of new timing belt, Aisin water pump, TB tensioner and pulley, TB idler pulley, serpentine belt, belt tensioner pulley, and idler pulley. Used OEM parts for everything. All said and done, I'd say I have 8-9 hours into it. I was very meticulous. Labeled all nuts and bolts on a big piece of cardboard to ensure they all went back in. Only broke one plastic fastener, and sheared the head off of one 10mm bolt on the lower timing belt cover. Not too bad. In fact, this was probably the most headache free major vehicle maintenance I've ever done on a vehicle. Did a large amount of "pre-game" studying. Definitely paid off. It looked like the timing belt was changed not too long ago by the previous owner. I could still see cam marks on the belt. However, they did only that. Glad I was able to change all of the other "accessories" that go along with it. I now have no worries of driving another 90K.

 

Nice

 

My tb was also done a year ago by the prior owner along with water pump and radiator. However I don't know if they did the pulleys and tensioner, makes me nervous.

 

The truck came with it. I had never even thought about it. Looks original?

 

Anybody remember off hand what wrench size the bolts on the driveshaft are? 14mm sounds right but it's been awhile.

 

14mm & a thin blade flathead to pry the back half apart. & mark the shafts.

 

Plus a 24mm iirc to change the carrier bearing

 

I've got all the sizes just only wanted to crawl under there once lol

Last time I'm pretty sure I just smacked it with a deadblow hammer to separate it.

I'm currently drinking beers to prepare for it.

 

All done. About an hour to change the oil and carrier bearing.

Bolts are indeed 14mm, transfer case side can be zipped off with an impact, middle bolts are a tight fit so I used 2 14mm open ends, bearing mounting bolts are also 14 but if the weld nuts break loose those are 15mm and you have to use an open end since they're square nuts.

Whacked both sides with a deadblow and they came apart easily. Also 24mm for the staked nut, reinstalled it's torqued to 133ft-lbs, then loosened, and retorqued to 60.

Didn't take any pics but the bearing in mine was fine but the rubber was trashed. Didn't feel like waiting or paying $200 for the Toyota version so I got Dorman from Napa for about $65.

In all 3.5ish beer pregame job only because the mugs are 20oz

 

You may be back in there sooner than you want. The Spicer is the OEM replacement for $65. All aftermarket alternatives seem to fail really early.

 

No big deal. I'm averaging about 2500 miles a year at this point so it'll be awhile either way.

 

Replaced the key fob case. Previous owner must have broke and super glued the old fob together


Replaced the lower ball joints and bolts with high quality Moog joints and hardware store bolts*. Truck has 275k miles on it and the ball joint recall was done at 50k miles and the LBJs I removed had no play at all.


* calm down. I used the 04006-26134 LBJ recall kit and 90105-12316 bolts for this 2004 double cab

Also replaced the rotors and pads up front with the PowerStop kit. I discovered the passenger side caliper was only held on with one bolt and the pads were held into the caliper with one pin. WTF!?!?!

 

I got the Spicer from Advanced Auto for $70. But it was like 50% off. Regular price was like $120 at Advanced and O'Reilly

 

Bought my Spicer from scAmazon for $65 n change. No issues.

 

@87warrior - assume you replaced the fob case and reused the internals. Based on what you’ve shown us from PO work may want to inspect all standard max items in Shifty’s sticky for new owners of FGTs.

 

@bfunke - Correct. I replaced the fob case and buttons, but reused the circuit board. There has definitely been a lot of shady work done to the truck and I am working my way from front to back making repairs. I have read the new owners sticky so many times I almost have it memorized at this point.

 

Man, you had me in the first half. Well played.

 

Installed Harbor freight knock off Hella horns. With this weekend 25% off coupon $20 out the door. Simple upgrade. No markings for + & -. I used the top post as ground and grounded it to the mounting hardware. Bottom post was used as power. Big improvement over stock horn.

 

I see people with the hella horns all the time online, but they never post a sound clip. What do they sound like? Did the early model Tundra horns suck? I hated the horn on my 99 Tacoma, sounded like a Camry.
My 03 Tacoma, and my Tundras horn sound like trucks.