What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Dang. Your LBJ's are $58 more per side. That's crazy.

 

Skid plate went for $248 shipped for free. If I only had another AC V8 4x4 Tundra that would last another 5 years. Sigh.

 

It's all that extra metal.

 

I’ll second this assessment of infinity products up through the middle of their lineup tinny, hollow and lacking staging and depth. Regretted putting them in the stang. I’ve always like the tone of Polk audio products, the old school Boston Acoustics and MB Quart were nice too. Even the midrange JBL had a good sound. Anymore many of these brands (MB Quart I’m looking at you) have been bought out and cheapened.

 

Audiofrog. Dumb name. Sound good though.

 

My cheap subswoooofers came in. They cheap aight. LOL. But you know what they say, its not the size of the Woofers, its the size of the fight in the Woofers, which when powered by a little NVX mono amp, ain't gonna be much. LOL.

$45 Rockville W8T4-S4 8" Shallow Mount 1000w Peak Car Subwoofer 4-Ohm Sub 250w RMS CEA Rated

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-W8T4-S4-Subwoofer-CEA-2006-Compliant/dp/B019Z3S80Q?crid=5MZ43PNB7HX8&keywords=8+inch+subs&sprefix=8+inch+sub%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-28&th=1

Being that they are in a tiny box with not much juice flowing to them, they may work better with thicker juice flowing into them. Perhaps a little Taramp's action courtesy of.....

$159 Taramps MD 1200.1 Monoblock Amplifier 1 Ohm 1200 Watts Rms 1 Channel Powerful Full Range Car Audio System, Crossover Bass Boost Gain Rca Input Class D

https://www.amazon.com/Taramps-MD12...ix=compact+mono+amplifie,aps,111&sr=1-25&th=1

 

Also I fixed my avatar so you can see his little hands when he scares y'all.


Y'all welcome.

 

I mean, if you want a cheap amp to power your cheap subs, I've got a used one of these Boss monoblock amps at the house you can have. It came on this thing which I got home and cones feel like the voice coils are toast, resistance suggests the voice coils are intact, but the cones themselves move like the coil former isn't sliding up and down on the pole piece correctly, like maybe the coil former is paper and got wet, and is swollen onto the pole? Super weird. I plan to test the amp this afternoon, just had to grab my power supply from work.

$84 BOSS Audio Systems AR1500M Car Amplifier - 1500 Watts Max Power, 2 4 Ohm Stable, Class AB, Monoblock, Mosfet Power Supply, Remote Subwoofer Control

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-AR1500M-Car-Amplifier/dp/B004S55ES6/

 

You know what I just thought of? You sold me that 500/1 JL amp. I can just slide that in to test if my 1000 is making that noise. If it stops and that 1000 is bad, I'm gonna get a Taramps 1300/1. They're actually very highly rated amps. A lot of car stereo youtubers use them.

 

Hell yeah.

And I didn't know about Taramps. Never seen the brand before. I'm pretty limited on my 'Tubing, though, that may be why.

 

Dropped in some universal all weather floormats that my dad recommended. Under $50, had to be trimmed a little. But I love the full length rear coverage in my double cab first gen. Here's a short video I made showing them off:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BubhzA-o_gs

Link: https://amzn.to/41BJL0J

 

Radiator/FanClutch/fanBlade job, turned into Idler pulley and tensioner, turned into Timing Belt inspection.

 

I didn't see anything that flipped my shit on that belt, but I'm not an expert. Is that "mint" sarcasm?
EDIT: I'm fighting this snowballing anymore, but I thought to myself, how much more is it really to just dig in and do it...

 

No, true sincerity. It looks good

 

@jpink and I are both due for a timing belt in the next year or so. I told him we need to man up and figure out how to do it as a team. One truck at a time.

 

With organization & attention to detail, it'll be pretty easy.

has anyone needed to re set the top end? Any wear on the buckets?

 

That would be nice, two sets of eyes on it. I think the Vids can get you %90 there, and if your halfway mech inclined its no problem.
I'll be lucky to put 4k on mine for all of 2023. Now that I've seen it, my plan is to do it summer of 2025, after we move, and I have a fkn garage... and some tables. And all the time with nowhere to go (retired)

 

You guys ever get the bed bolts out?

 

Not yet. I think the plan is for us both to take a day off work and tackle it. I've been attacking the rust on the replacement bed with my Dremel and a wire wheel attachment. Most of the loose scale is gone.

 

Get an illustrated manual if you don’t already have one. Watch the YouTube videos for the visuals and general procedure, but use the manual and follow the steps to keep you organized. A table and lots of cups or ziplock bags and a sharpie for bolt labeling. Everyone on here that has done it usually has a good watch out. @shifty` with the cam sensor wiring, mine would be the radiator hose clamps likely need to be replaced. My factory ones leaked uponce reinstallation. Removing and replacing meant spilling all of the fresh radiator fluid, so I simply slid them back and installed worm drive clamps. Not ideal, but solved my leaking. Have FIPG for the upper water pump neck seal thingy. PHM would recommend Fan clutch / bracket replacement. Probably a good time to do the radiator as well. Have a torque wrench handy. @bmf4069 recommends a good valve cover dishwashing while you’re in there.

 

It ain't clean unless it's been through the dishwasher.

 

I’d add to this, I know you guys have impacts; but “just in case”, the tool is cheap enough. https://www.tundras.com/threads/timing-belt-master-thread-sticky.107240/#post-3361880

pay attention to the thick washer (behind?) the crank pulley since that’s gotten a few people. And crank position wire is to watch out for, but make sure to check the cam position wire in the tower for rubbing since there was an issue/TSB in the earlier years for that condition also.

 

I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree on this. I've been able to get full, rich sound out of all of the Infinitys I've ever owned. I always run them through an EQ, which I can assume most people don't. I have also worked as a sound engineer, so it helps to know which "offensive" frequencies can be mellowed and others that can be enhanced to give nice clarity, staging, and depth. So far I've been impressed with the Primus series. We'll see how they hold up. Even if they don't, I won't be out a whole bunch of dough. I'm not into playing music as loud as possible, but I do appreciate quality sound in my vehicles at normal volume levels.

 

Removed all of the stickers off of the doors that I thought would look cool at the time. Granted, those [HOONIGAN] decals had been on there for 8 years.

I’m considering using the metallic gray from the mirror caps and the center caps and doing a two tone below the body side moldings. Thoughts… Ideas?…

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1712#post-3338629

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1712#post-3338719

 

I think you leave Boobie black.

 

x2.... leave it black

 

So while I have easy access (Radiator and fan pulled) I took a look at mine. After I repaired that crankPS wire, and oil sending wire I split a vac hose and strapped it up.
Was this a "detail" missed while doing a timing belt job? Is it supposed to run through the hole (red arrow)

 

Hehehehe, and what the hell is it wrapped with?!

 

Just wanted to give it some extra protection. This wasn't my fuckery (timing belt job)