Checking oil on a brand new 2023

Off topic - but I just got a lens replacement, still early days, but it seems like it was worth the money.

I had perfect vision that went to hell at 45.

 

I have 20/15 back now according to the optometrist ... but the downside is that it's only there at certain distances.

My eyes are still adjusting and it will be some time before the verdict is in. But I can now read my phone just fine.

 

I also had 20/15 back in the day, but in addition to the usual old age presbyopia I got a touch nearsighted mostly in one eye after 55 or so. This is actually a good thing. I see about 20/30 distance and can get by on some middling close up stuff like reading menus without the readers. But for really close up stuff I need the readers. When I get cataracts I'll have a decision to make as to what vision to shoot for with lens replacement. If you go for that 20/15, you will be SOL for anything inside a meter or so without readers. That would be a real PITA for someone like me who never had to rely with glasses... except sunglasses.

 

I am reading my phone that’s less than a foot from my face perfectly.

the lens I have is supposedly not good for intermediate vision, but honestly I’ve had only small trade offs so far.

I got the panoptix. It was expensive AF but i also go the platinum tundra over the limited for the same amount.

not trying to sell it - I was really nervous about it - but it’s just been a game changer for me and it’s been about 2 weeks.

 

IS it real or memorx . wipe off once reinsert and look at both sides one side will be smeared because it is over 30 inches long so look at other side it should have the correct reading. I agree with all toyota's 3rd gen dipstick sucks and they know it!! wish i could find an aftermarket but to no avail as yet meanwhile i drilled holes deeper and scuffed the middle to see .

 

wish there was an aftermarket dipstick with hashmarks that would fit

 

Worried about the oil level? I would be more worried about getting oil changed at 10K. Dont wait that long I go with 5k

 

Or really good at satire.

 

Why do you say change every 5k, when Mobil 1 Extended Performance Synthetic is guaranteed for 20k miles? The oil just doesn’t break down anymore like it did 20 years ago. What are we preventing by changing every 5k?

 

I drained mine over ~24 hours and refilled with 7.7 qts. It was way too much oil. I've drained a significant amount and I'm still on the high end between min and max.

 

https://youtu.be/TJhFAwFv-O0?si=aOMDhYrfI-0fiAH8

 

lulz!!

 

and there is the out for mobil warranty

 

Post 43's video nails the reason but I will add 1 more.

Coming from 2 Ford Eco boosts and now a Chevy turbo 4cylinder truck, you change the oil at least every 5k miles or less if you tow a great deal because the oil is used to help cool the turbos.

Just like the car car nut says, Toyota's schedule is just good enough to get you through the warranty.

All the high mileage ecoboost owner's did the oil changes at 5k miles.

If you want to go to the 10k miles interval I highly suggest you get your oil tested via Blackstone labs to be sure.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

 

This is a great video. Thanks for sharing. I know how sensitive this topic is. I just was looking for some actual data or tangible evidence that 5k mile oil changes are required. I put 42,000 miles on my Tundra in 18 months. That’s an average of 2,333 miles per month. Sometimes 2k per month sometime 3k per month. Essentially changing it every 4 months, or 3 times per year.

The 2007 4.7L Tundra put 1million miles on it, averaging 125k miles per year, and Victor changed the oil “monthly”. With my extensive highway miles, and using (what I believe to be) the best oil available, I cannot see the need to change my oil every other month, or 6 times per year.

Let’s move on to a more sensible topic… Anyone running 93 octane in their trucks? Because it is direct injection and twin turbo, I only use 93 octane. Every. Single. Fill up. However…. I only change my oil every 10k, with Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0 w 20.

Should i just run 87 octane, like the manual says?

 

This motor was engineered and tuned for 87 octane. The high performance model and add-on that’s coming will require Premium fuel according to the info. (and pics of the Premium Fuel Only tag for the filler bay) *Back on topic, I found that reading the stick on the first pull (rather than wiping and reinserting for a second pull and read) gave a much easier read. And Yes, 7.7qts with a filter change put it at the top of the min/max range which is just fine IMO.

 

What he said. Just checked my oil after the truck sat overnight in the garage and the line was distinct. Very clear and easy to read. I did my oil change and added 7.7 qts and it’s at the top line.

 

Check your owner's manual on octane. With the Ford Eco Boost, they are designed for 87 but you get full HP/TQ with 91 or above plus they recommend higher octane when towing and/or outside temperature is high, 85F (I think). Living in Florida, I always ran 91 or higher when I owned them. The Chevy 2.7L 4 cylinder turbo company provided truck only gets 87 octane per company mandate and it has run just fine in hot temps with it. It never is used for towing.

 

When I brought my 23 1794 home I checked the oil just to be sure...I could only see the oil where it accumulated on the tip of the dipstick. I checked 3 times and it still looked low, this is my first time dealing with a turbo engine. I swear they are using Jet oil in this thing it is so thin. I took it to the dealer and they had 2 techs verify that it was a the correct level. Now that I am 7k in and have had an oil change the oil has darkened enough to see actual level on the stick.

 

Ok, keeping it on topic, here are 4 pictures of my dipstick with 4,500 miles on the oil. First two are cold readings after sitting overnight (each side of the dipstick). Second two pictures are after a wipe and pull.

 

I find the best way to check the oil is do it after the truck has sit overnight and is dead cold. Open the hood and pull the dipstick out and see what the level is. No need to wipe it off, re-insert and then pull and check otherwise the tube will have residual oil in it and mess up the reading. Picture shows oil with 6,500 miles on it (1,500 miles past due on the 5,000 mile OCI).



Also, I don't check the oil until several thousand miles after changing (it doesn't leak or burn oil so no worries there - 2018 bought new).

When I change oil I drain the pan and filter, replace the oil with the amount stated in the manual, start it up to see oil pressure build and check for leaks (there never are any). No need to pull the dipstick until much later.

Dan

 

Cold after sitting in the Gen3 is certainly the way. Too many curves in the dipstick tube that scrape off oil when the stick is pulled and then redeposit it all over the place when it’s reinserted making it tough to get a good read.

 

From a NASCAR lube expert, give some insight to oil test results... and more...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6nWCQ_70J0

 

^ I dumped my oil @1600km (break in period). I’ve done this for every car I’ve owned.

my dealer said NOT to because “special break in oil” and it doesn’t have to be changed for 16000km.

same dealer said comfort+ couldn’t be installed because,of my bumper. DEFA (company who makes comfort+ for Toyota) says otherwise.

I have zero confidence in dealer service.