What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Excellent. Thanks Shifty.

 

Nope, I put a new OEM in.

 

I’ve has really good luck with Ospho. Like really good. I have used it a lot on some old rusty Vespa motor scooter projects, farm equipment, my old trucks, and tools. I haven’t tried it on any super thick rust, but at that point it’s time to section is out anyhow. I always go after the rust with a wire wheel and remove as much as possible. I then spray on the Ospho and let it sit for about 5 minutes, i then spray some more on and give is a scrubbing with a dense short bristled wire brush. Then i’ll keep repeating that cycle for about 20 minutes. Ospho WILL dissolve and remove pretty much all rust when doing it like that. But if you can’t reach the rust with a brush, then it doesn’t actually remove it. It will still turn the rust surface to a phosphate though. I like the the Ospho is thin enough that it can seep into seams and joints.

 

fun fact. that pinch costs ~15hp on a 2gr-fe. toyota does it purely for noise. the v6 especially gets LOUD without it.

 

remember, those front drivers side bolts are sitting on top of the gas tank.

 

Good point. I'll have to look and see if we can safely heat them. We may be cutting them.

 

If you spin the bolt heads counter clockwise, they'll come apart without needing to heat or cut them.

at least thats how bolts work in texas.

 

If you can get muriatic acid as a gel, that would solve the bed bolt problem. I’ve soaked rusted screws in muriatic acid before and it’ll strip off 100% of the rust overnight.

You can buy it in a 1 gal pail for around $95 under the name Tek Gel but you can’t get it in smaller quantities.

 

And it's still running bad? You change the fuel filter already too?

 

Fuck that fuel filter. Never again.

 

@bmf4069 driveway is still under consideration for superfund site status after his last fuel filter change.

 

When I met @bmf4069 earlier this year there was still a hint of gas fumes on his skin.

 

Some even say he's flammable to this very day

 

Looks good. Having a place bend it for you is totally worth the extra price.

I had these cut and bent from an online vendor here in the US for some Cat protection. Made it out of 3/16 steel because I was worried alu would be too easy to cut, seeing as how they're already carrying a a sawzall to get the cats out.

I plan to eventually make an aluminum skid plate with some steel cat guards similar to skid row offroad.

 

1.25 work great. If you go with spidertrax, the 1.5 aren't hub centric and so you'll get shaking

 

That's a cool and simple design.

I don't think we need to make the guard sawzall proof ( a cordless impact would be quicker, quieter and easier than a sawzall) we just need to make it more difficult than it is to go down the street to the next vehicle that doesn't have a cat protector plate.

 

Aluminum can be cut quicker than steel, except if you don’t lubricant the aluminum (or the blade) it will gall up in the blade’s teeth and then it won’t be able to cut any further.

 

Finally removed the wiper cowl and sealed the passenger side and set a canister of damp-rid on the passenger floorboard. I wish I had realized how easy this fix was and done it a year ago. Would've probably saved my A/C blower motor.

 

Hardest part is popping off the cowl w/o breaking any of those damn black fasteners.

 

The passenger wiper gave me a hard time. I think 3 of my plastic fasteners and 2 screws were missing. Likely from the windshield replacement last summer. I found one replacement screw in my random screw/bolt collection.

 

Yeah, lube those fuckers up with antisieze if you didn’t already. And I think I have all the replacement part numbers in the definitive leak thread sticky too. I found my stash again the other day, lost em for a minute. And I noticed I’m missing a couple myself.

 

@FirstGenVol out here grinding on my bed like some sort of weirdo.

My honest guess is the bed liner clogged up some important drainage and made the rust a problem.

 

you could try an induction heater will make em glow red without a open flame

 

Bedliner in general is a bad idea. Capillary action naturally draws water up from below, into the seam of the bolt/hole where it sits until it evaporates, leaving behind any other dissolved elements with it.

That's fine if you live in a hot area where salt never hits the road, or in a hot area where water events are less common. But if you're anywhere else, especially in salt areas, you're basically asking for problems. A couple of different members have posted pics like yours, where the bedliner itself looks fine, but once you cut into it or peel it up, the whole bed was rusting out from under the spray-in liner.

I've posted this caution a few times on this forum and at least one other truck forums. The most common defence is, "Yeah, well the plastic liners rub away the paint!" or "You should see how fast it rusts without the spray-in liner!" Some will default to "But if you use my preferred brand, this doesn't happen! It's all horseshit.

Truth is, if you want to do it right, it'd be ideal to remove the bed bolts and shoot the holes from above and below, then install the bolts.

 

@shifty` so you’re saying I should get your preferred brand of liner installed in the new bed asap.

 

Nope. Not the case. All our trucks are prone to rust underneath and through the bed via the bad design of the supports underneath that are a magnet for accumulating salt/moisture. Untreated, it’ll do exactly what you see. I was fortunate enough that when I got the Noxodul 300 undercoating, I told them to replace the bed bolts and treat them with the anti-seize I provided. That’s why mine come out and yours don’t. Toyota broke a few in the process of removing them so don’t feel alone.

 

I seriously don’t think a torch is going to ignite any fuel vapor if you torch the bolt from inside of the bed and then let it cool (at least near the gas tank). The expansion should help to break the rust bond.

 

I agree I used to do this method when I lived in Maine but when I moved here to Tennessee I was luck enough to get an induction heater which is nicer on a hot humid day or doing exhaust bolts in tight spots