What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

NAPA is who I hit up last time for a tube of Palladium #2. It was a buck more, but it's also compatible with my SPC arms, so I rolled with it.

 

Yay, my grille emblem came in. $18 eBay special.

 

After I went to five different stores I wound up ordering it direct from Valvoline. Free shipping over $50 as I recall, so I had to buy a few qts of gear oil for a future project.

 

Been losing about 5# of air per week in one of the car tires. Finally took it to the tire shop - cracked valve stem. Valve stem is part of the TPMS. Joy.
$75 for a valve stem installed. But cold weather = pay & be done with it. Took 20 minutes at the shop, last time I got air for that tire I ended up waiting in line at the air pump for 15 minutes (2 cars & a slow pump). Worth the price to me to have no Christmas Tree on the dash.

 

Why not buy your own air compressor? I got sick of driving 20 minutes out of my way to find a working one and bought my own. Nobody at the gas stations around here bother to fix them.

 

Worth it. I have a small portable ($99 on sale) to run tools with and a handheld (Ryobi) for on the go tires and stuff.

 

The $75 was inevitable anyway and you at least controlled when it happened. Mine snapped off in the middle of a snow storm when I stopped to air it up.

 

I actually own two.
I realized it was low when I started the car to go to work. Gas along the way was in the plan, so I'll just pop over to the air pump while I'm there. Just didn't work out quite as I'd hoped.
Besides, I'm not going to keep putting air in the tire when it's cold out. Hell, I'm not going to keep putting air in the tire.
No good reason, but I hate checking tires. Since working at the garage of brown - I keep a hammer in the car as an air gauge. "PING" is close enough to 30 PSI for me.

 

Any of the Viair portable compressors on scAmazon are a good buy. Viair is what I typically used for any bag setup I've installed. They generally produce a fair quality product considering the price point.

The only shit part is the gauges are never accurate on those damn pumps. Gotta shut off the pump and hope it settles out accurately..

 

Sad thing is I think I caused this when I was shuffling vehicles. Drove it into/up a hillside to get the truck past it. pretty sure I made contact between teh stem & the hillside, probably damaged when I did that. I'm going to have to carve some parking spots into the hillside so things can pass each other.

 

Yeah, my last charger blew up a battery (or vice versa). It's been pretty good.
Upgraded my RAM a while back. Went to 32G 3400k.

Yeah, I replaced the wiper linkage a fucked it up so they don't really work now. The defroster doesn't work real well either. It's a shitbox.

 

I use those all the time! 3/4" PVC 90s! That's really weird they'd send you those from an auto parts place.

 

Your daughter still love her Sequoia?

 

Those are great write-ups, thanks Shifty. Were you able to get that weed whacker cord to go all the way down from the top to the bottom? I tried it and could only get it barely past the first bend. If I try going from the weep hole in the bottom it gets pretty much nowhere. It seems like the problem might be in the corner next to the weep hole but I can't access that area.

 

Yup, I was able to run mine all the way down, I had about 18-20" of cord down in my door. I was using slightly smaller cord, I think if you were using anything too large it could get jammed.

Maybe it's jam-packed with shit? I'd think about stuffing a towel or three at the base of the window, and see if it was possible to blast anything out with water. Maybe tru going up in reverse?

If you have a lot of crap clogging that corner, I don't see how water can be draining down to the drains.

 

She does, but it needs some love.

 

@shifty` aye yo. When you did your coilovers, is the arrow on top pointing in or out? Destructions don't seem to mention it...

1st thought is out, since that would put the adjustment screw facing out.

 

Actually...I think the arrow just points to the screw and, that's it. Crisis averted!

 

Check this thread and make sure you did yourself right - there is a typo (or was one) in their directions. I don't know if they bothered to fix it yet: https://www.tundras.com/threads/need-quick-clarification-toytec-aluma-boss-coilovers.129942/

 

Instructions weren't in any of the boxes, so I was working off of a online pdf. Looked for videos online and found an adjustment video, from toytec, and it showed the screw facing out. I called toytec and it sounded like I was on the right track, even loosened the top bolts and took a peek at the top...saw a PS...

OR AT LEAST I THOUGHT I DID.

Came back here a little late and noticed the reference of DS...not PS... and that video was of the old version...So, I went full Yosemite Sam, backed it out of the garage, and pulled my wife's car in for the night. I have tomorrow off, too, but MFING-GD IT! tomorrow was just supposed to be for the AAL's.

Oh well. Sometimes, you just end up eating a shit sandwich.

 

Believe me, I went thru the same shit as you. Toytec REALLY needs to do better with their documentation. A simple piece of paper saying "Coilover marked DS goes on DRIVER SIDE" would've saved you a shitload of work, having to do the job twice, and would've saved me about 2-3 hours of trying to dig into things to make sure I'm not missing something, which was longer than it took to install everything! Just drop valid instructions in the box, man. I had to download from their site, only to find... that tells you two different ways to install, both conflicting with each other as you see in that other thread.

I really hope they start dropping instructions in the box, it costs them little of nothing on a product they're selling at $1,200 which is far from chump change. I found several other people online trying to figure this out, it's not just us!!!

Upside: By the time you finish, you'll be a pro with these bastards

 

Man, I tell ya, my heart sank when I saw that picture with DS on top lol. I mean, could I take the top 3 bolts out and try to rotate? Instead of pulling the whole assembly out?

This side took longer because I was also fixing seal on the diff, so just the assembly will probably take me an hour to pull and replace.

Oh and I saw their black Friday deal for the lift! $30 off and free shipping. Free shipping would've been nice...

 

Here's the thing. I'm not sure why they're marking one side versus the other, but I see a few logical reasons...

1. They've pre-adjusted the coilovers to kill the "Tundra Lean", making it perfectly level in front, so if you reverse, you may be sitting 1/2" higher on one side than the other
2. Upper bolt positions may not be correct when the Toytec logo on the spring is facing out, requiring you to spin the lower shock mount excessively, which I've heard arguments against doing over my lifetime
3. ????

I'm guessing #1 is the story. I was expecting to need to tweak, and I very clearly had some lean before based on my "before" numbers, but I was almost dead-nuts level after up front.

 

Interesting. Even with my side being "backwards", everything lined up perfectly. another reason I didn't question it much further. But I agree, turning to line it up doesn't sound ideal.

What makes the most sense now, is that the silver, allen screw (not the phillips/hex screw above it, like I thought), needs to face outward since it loosens the collar....allegedly lol.

 

That wasn't bad at all. Bout 90 minutes to swap and install, pretty sure 20 of those minutes were spent on cotter pins...

To the rear, I go.

 

Well folks, I think that's it for now. Got the u bolts on the passenger side off, and this is what the center bolt looks like...

Guarantee the other side is at least this bad too, so I'm going install the rear shocks and button it up to still enjoy a bit of my day off. Might as well just get new leafs; instead of monkeying around (cutting the bolts out, etc) with the AAL, running into problems, and being in a "must win" situation...and it looks like the overload spring is chipped, too.

 

Wire brush and some penetrating oil might clean that up. But I'm going new HD leafs when it's time, not AAL. My 24 year old ones are tired.

 

Yeah that's what it looks like after a wire brush and some pb blaster lol. Fuckers all chewed up!

 

I put these in when I replaced mine:

https://www.generalspringkc.com/leaf-springs/toyota/tundra/2000-2006/

You can get new shackles too:

https://www.generalspringkc.com/2000-2006-toyota-tundra-rear-leaf-spring-shackle-1/

 

Thanks @bmf4069 , I'll check those out. Sharing the same sentiment as @KNABORES . these things are almost 25 years old. Why not just get a full set?