What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I wouldn't say "more rigid". They were just as soft as OEM, and probably de-lam just like OEM with time and age. But rather than being shark-teeth, they're round-nose. Install is a snap, I posted in instructions for the front pair for my setup, at least. It was as simple as pulling up the center cupholder, removing a couple of screws, dropping out the cup portion, pulling the old and lining up the new insert, then reassemble. I'm not sure about the rears; my rears were mint. And it bothered me to have mismatch front and rears, but when I updated to wood grain, the new woodgrain cupholder assembly came with OEM foams, so ... meh. I think I sent the rears to alb1k with the front cupholder.

 

If tools and/or random car parts aren't sitting on top of the dryer, is it even a garage?

 

I bought mine from this store:
https://www.ebay.com/str/especializedautoparts

 

This was my kitchen table a few years ago:



Not quite a dryer, but I use my appliances for other vehicle things...

 

I got laid off from work last Sunday, Monday came around and I started cutting shit... Another Toyota in town had done this to their OEM bumper, and I liked the look. Cut the holes, mounted and bolted them on, then hit it with some sealant, wired the babies up and bu-blam - I can see out of the back of my truck at night again.



I like how it turned out. It's better than having a couple of cube lights hanging onto my bumper - more clearance. Let's also just say I was puckered up for a little while being that if I overcut the holes on the bumper the entire look would be fucked. Thoughts?

 

Any time I can use the death wheel, it's a win. Nice job. Spray the F outta those holes on the back with Fluid film or something. I already have a hole there from rust

 

Thank u sir. Yea, I also painted this priming/anti rust goop onto where the cuts were made. I replaced this rear bumper about 15 months ago as it was pretty smashed up, and I am not impressed at its ability to rust. The entire inside of the bumper is already all browned out and crumby :/ Might have to have a rear bumper fabbed up now.

 

Your whole truck is rust, and I say that with love.

I think you should come down here and buy this, swap some parts over, and send it. Although the can of black satin rustoleum hidden behind the passenger's side rear seat is, uh, suspicious, the Line-X job was done by a shop in NC, so I'd bet this is a Carolinas-and-south truck. And it's got Ivan Allen stuff on it, although I doubt it's that pkg.

 

Yeah, I take no offense for calling it like it is There are days while driving in to work that I wonder... what's going to be the death of her. But she's pretty tight for now, no creaking, popping, etc... I am pretty amazed at the body integrity left after 23yrs, esp with what I've encountered.
Both diffs and the TC fluid changes showed nary a bit of evil glitter, and the trans drain and fill was really good as well. Thanks for that link/idea. At some point I want to do that, and getting another that similar would sure help $$ wise with parts. Do you see filler in those rear quarters too?

 

Mine's worse. I'm got paper bills, bank and credit card statements, investment statements and whatnot covering 75% of mine.

 

A lightweight Warn 200lb winch to help a backpack hiker climb up a mountain?

 

That looks Harvard as a mf, love it. Where'd you mount the switch for those?

 

New frame stiffeners fabricated by a coworker. He spent 30 years in industrial fabrication so that was a blessing lol

 

Weld in or bolt on? Which method do you prefer?

 

Knowing our trucks he can just tape them on and they'll be rusted to the frame in a year or so.

 

That’s how my LBJ bolts keep from backing out. Rust is nature’s loctite!

 

We all know how to fix rust by now!

 

They’ll be bolted in, have factory locations for rivets marked on them.

Will take them out maybe once a year to apply film behind them.

 

I'm finally adding fog lights to my 2006. I sourced the lights from a 2000 at the local LKQ last week. My front bumper is too dented to install them so I have a new one on the way from Summit. A 2007 Sequoia showed up at LKQ today, but its combination switch has a different part number than the one for the 2006 Tundra. There is a very reasonably priced aftermarket switch for the Tundra that I could buy as well. I'm tempted to grab the Sequoia one and see if it will work, for science.

 

I've got a little 3-switch panel hooked up into where the ashtray is in the cab. One for rear lights, one for one of the sections of my front bumper, and one for the ditch lights I currently don't have hooked in. I drilled and bolted the switch panel onto a couple of L-brackets and slipped them into the screw holes where the ashtray mounts. Out of the way, yet easy to get to

 

The Sequoia has 4 switches and does not fit in a 2006 Tundra you won't be able to use the two switches on the left due to an air vent being right behind the first 2.

 

I grabbed an aftermarket multi switch for my fogs. It's working great. It's very clicky.

XQSMWF Headlight Fog Light Turn Singal Switch Compatible with Toyota Tundra 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Replace 84140-0C050

$15 XQSMWF Headlight Switch Fog Light Turn Singal Switch Compatible with Toyota Tundra 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006# 84140-0C050

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHWMNT6Y

 

Yesterday, I went to town for some grub and errands. When I got back home, I heard some clunking from either mid or ass end of the truck as it flexed over uneven ground going up to the house. Today, I spent some time installing my new mini amp in ye olden Ferd. Afterwards, I crawled under ye olden Tundra and rocked the driveshaft as much as I could. Solid. Checked the trans crossmember, solid. Didn't see anything outright loose and about to fall off. Checked the spare, solid. Hmmm. My tailpipes are angled outward to the ends of the bumper. Slightly kicked the passenger side, solid. Slightly kicked the drivers side, wobble wobble wobble. Me thinks me found a possible clunk source. Had to leave for work so will have the check another day.

What I thought was my Kenwood mini amp dying was in fact just faulty RCA cables. When I installed the new amp, I was messing with the gain and the right front channel cut out again when I bumped the RCA cables. Had to make a Wally World run for some new ones. I now have the Kenwood sitting as my spare backup. LOL.

 

Pics?

 

How about AuxBeam switch panel??
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1419396397/2001-2007-toyota-sequoiatundra-auxbeam-8?gpla=1&gao=1&

 

Pretty sure the most recent round of noises I’m hearing during articulation is due to my extended links. So I took a minute to re-assess. I can clearly see the lower cam is off-kilter and at least one side was probably tweaked down a bit tight, so I backed off both links up top to address a little excess compression I was seeing on the bushings. Then I figured, “ah what the hell, I may as well download the instructions since I got these 2nd hand”.

Needless to say, I definitely didn’t install them per the manufacturer’s intention, and will need to take some time to realign and retorque lower cams at minimum, and probably adjust the bar while I’m in there. Hoping backing off will address some of the articulation noise I’m hearing, but suspect I won’t be back to stock-sounding articulation until I adjust my install. Was pretty certain it was the links and/or bar b/c 90% of the sounds could be tracked to side to side articulation type stuff.

 

@shifty` Which extended links you rocking?

 

SuspensionMaxx SMX-122270T

EDIT: And there must be a good way to hold the lower cam in place, prevent rotation while tightening down. On the driver's side I found sandwiching a 3/4" Buck chisel with its plastic sheath intact in between the LCA and cam held it semi-stationary so you could torque down the nut. On the driver's side, I had to toss an ~16" flathead screwdriver between the cam and the concrete to prevent it from spinning. But it's still not horizontal as the instructions indicate it should be. I'm really surprised SM didn't bother to put a slot or something on the lower cam so you could hold it parallel to the ground while tightening everything down. Installing per the instructions leaves the link pretty damn sloppy.

 

I remember seeing post about a 12$ Amazon flat wrench that fit perfect for these sway bar links. I had to do min like 3x to get it right, I was just wedging stuff so that it didn’t move.

I just read the instructions and def did not follow them correctly

update. Here is the link to the tool, I just bought it.

$10 Capri Tools 14 mm x 15 mm Super-Thin Open End Wrench, Metric, 11850-1415

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791XJ8WC

link to the post about it, post #110
https://www.tundras.com/threads/spi...-bolt-test-1st-gen.111746/page-4#post-3265754

someone need to make a proper YouTube install video for these.