1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Not 189. Not 191.

 

I feel like there’s a Batman movie where Alfred is like, wait; you’ll burn the leaves!!!(making tea) so I always try and let the kettle cool down or prime the cups I’m using to help the water cool down more before I pour on the grounds

 

The recommended temp is between 190 and 200 if I recall.

 

C’mon guys. It’s the roasting of the beans that’s important. Who here knows how to do that and well?

 

195-205 but probably depends who you ask. Even the internet (just checked) has some wild answers.

 

#truthbomb

 

Anything luck with using an aftermarket Clock Spring? Or should I go OEM 300$+

looking on rockauto and see two options, some for around $35 and two others for about $225.

trying to fix the airbag light that has been on since I got the truck (aka forever). Noticed today that my cruise control didn’t work either (I never tried using it before). This sent me down a wormhole and I downloaded the upgrade OBD package for my scanner tool. It gave me access to the airbag reader and I have code B1801.

Hopefully a new clock spring fixes this for me

 

I would never use a non-OEM part on something that critical to the air bag system myself. A salvaged one might be a better bet though.

 

I'll drink both, but the ultras are cause I'm getting fat(ter).I'm down 5 lbs since I've started actually taking my thyroid meds. And my ADD meds probably have something to do with it.

 

Yup, I am. I can't handle caffeine well enough to drink more than a couple of cups each morning, but that coffee, and assorted rituals, are high points of my day.

I'm sorry for your broken carafe; glad Mom got you set up again.

 

Any of y'all early first gen owners that added fog lights still have an extra oval blank laying around? To clarify no switch just the blank oval. I'm considering using a blank to hold a switch but don't want to ruin mine without a replacement. Hate to make a WTB thread for something so small and simple.
Only person I think of is @Vallejo206 from a past thread who bought the whole panel for a switch but he hasn't been on in a little while.

 

@NickB_01TRD I have a factory switch and an aftermarket switch. I will look for it tomorrow

update, I had photos on my phone

 

I appreciate it but I need the blank, no switch, just the oval of nothing.

 

I think I have two blank ovals.

 

Let me do some looking today and see if I have any other options for location, not wanting to go crazy with a switch panel or anything. If you're willing to part with one I could shoot a few bucks your way. I'll let you know tomorrow hopefully. Thanks

 

Yeah, I got you. At one point one was earmarked for Tundra2 I think? I have one in the truck right now but it’ll get ditched for either seat heat or mirror heat. Gotta get moving forward on my switch-pros too someday, then maybe ditch the fog circuit entirely.

 

And buying an older car when what you need is reliable transportation to go make sales calls is....risking it.

Amen, sister. I actually look forward to going to bed at night thinking about having coffee the next morning. We drink trash coffee made in a trash drip maker, but man, such an important ritual.

 

OEM. Go OEM. What Bill said above. And if you need any more convincing, read @w666's recent post. You don't want to be his PO. Guy probably sold the damn truck because of the "gremlin" he fixed by installing OEM vs. aftermarket.

 

I will go OEM on it. Everyone is right.
Thank you for sending that post btw

 

Hey anyone know the part no for this gasket at either side of the windshield? And are they supposed to sort of loose? Mine are noticeably loose and I’m ordering some oil filters and trying to get to the $75 for free shipping from Toyota and am guessing these could get me there. I pulled mine out a little extra so y’all could tell what I was talking about.

 

OBD2 reader is showing 14.9 volts most of the drive home but my truck is having trouble starting both this morning and just now. Seems like the classic weak battery. Is the alternator making it read normal while running? The Interstate battery will be 5 years old in January.

 

Need to check volts under load to determine if battery bad

 

Batterys have voltage and amperage. Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) are what drive starts. You can full voltage on all cells and still have virtuall no CCA.

Any LAPS will test the battery. Chances are it's bad, and you'll find it has a subpar CCA, like in the low double or single digits. You need to be strong in the triple digits.

 

Weird thing my batteries seem to last 7-8-9 years even. Last napa legend in our Civic was a 9years old. I don't do anything special to them. MI climate so they get pretty cold. Is it the Heat for you guys that kills them?

 

Yes, alternator puts out 14.4v, battery only puts out 12v.

 

Yes I think the heat is worse for them than the cold.

@Outbound , how old was that Toyota battery you had up there in your frozen hell?

 

Ready to go back to work tomorrow but now the nurse isn’t accepting the doctor’s note because he won’t quantify taking a small break if my arm/wrist movement makes my bursitis worse. On top of that my boss needs to approve the accommodation. WTF?

I don’t want to have to use my vacay time till this gets resolved. I’m pissed.

 

I think that it's the side molding. Part number 755330C030 for the right side (Pass side). This is for a double cab though.

 

I'd have to look back through my posts (not gonna) but I think it was around 10 years old, maybe 12. Methuselah in battery terms.

 

What a shit deal, they sure are splitting fkn hairs...
Sounds like your nurse C-an't U-understand N-ormal T-hinking

How are you doing man? Did they give you some answers yet?