Which Fuses to Tap? Drained my Battery on First Try :(

Hey Folks,

So I'm looking to hardwire a Viofo 129 Pro Plus into my 2015 1794 with fuse taps, unfortunately I tried BK/UP LP for constant and S/Roof for ACC but that just drained the battery instantly and scared me shitless for a few minutes.

Does anyone know what would be good taps for Constant Power and ACC on my fuse box? I appreciate any assistance!

 

Wouldn’t your OBD port be constant power? You’d have the option of a dongle as well if you wanted power for your dash cam. But it would only work when your mirror has power, which would be IGN.

 

So I tried the OBD port but that's not under constant power according to my MultiMeter, I'm guessing Mirror power would be MIR? This is way more complex than I was hoping fuse taps would be

 

No, your mirror is the 12 pin behind your auto dim mirror.

https://dongar.tech/products/12pin-tacoma

 

Ahh the mirror power attachment option, yeah I looked into those but from my understanding they don't provide constant power, only power when the vehicle is on. I'm looking for a hardwire solution for parking mode when the vehicle is off.

 

UPDATE

I tried the 15A Tail for Constant Power and the 15a CIG for ACC annnnd NOTHING, zip, nada, no power to the camera with the truck off or with it in on mode before ignition. I'm starting to think VIOFO sold me a faulty dongle.

 

I'm about to install my second Viofo. I installed a dashcam in my 06 Impala. Now I'm installing a Viofo A129 Plus Duo in my 2017 SR5 TRD. I didn't think it would be too big an issue until I started reading in these forums. Let me know how you got it to work correctly. Thanks

 

Why not run a wire from the battery for constant 12v?

 

I can. I just don't wanna. LOL


I can, but my reasoning is it would really be easier with the tap at the fuse block. Direct to the battery is what I did in the Impala.

 

Pretty much nothing in the truck is constant 12v due to parasitic drain.

 

Yeah. That and getting to the fuse block is a b***h.

 

Have you tried the Cargo Lamp?

 

I didn't consider that. The lamp by the front dash? Just in front of the rear view mirror?

 

I was referring to the light for the bed, but now that I think about it, that light and the dome lights which you're thinking about have power without having the key on but will eventually time out.

 

Good pick up. I forgot about the light timing out. There are a lot of threads on here about how to connect. What I didn't recall seeing is if I use the fuse block, which ones make sense for ACC and constant? One thread on here had a a use that was killing his battery connected to the two top ones.

But if he used the same kit I've used/will use, the adapter should have shut off at a certain voltage to avoid the issue.

I appreciate the help.

 

Brother the second I do y'all are going to be the first to know. I'm going to figure this out and make sure 2.5 gen Tundra owners have a solid answer here. The new dongle arrived today so if I have a second tonight I'll try again. I'm thinking about doing 20A Pwr No 3 which is the power windows for constant power and then 30A FR P/Seat LH for ACC, or maybe just stick with CIG.

I tested with a multi meter and the powered side of the fuses is on the steering wheel side of the fuse box so that's sorted at least, just need to find the ACC that works properly.

 

The windows don’t have constant power. The cargo lamp circuit towards the bottom is a better bet. Power seat circuit should work too.

 

But if you stick the key in the door and hold it in the lock position it rolls down all the windows. Does that switch the car to on somehow through the door lock to do that??

I was thinking Cargo, gotta test it with the Multi, I did kinda want them spread out as they taps are a bit bulky to have close together.

 

It does the sunroof too but you already proved that doesn’t work - right?

 

Nah I tried that for ACC the first time with the Backup LP as Constant. It's entirely possible that I was a dummy and installed the taps backwards as well, either way I have a fresh dongle to test with and now I know exactly which orientation to plug the taps.

 

My thought is if the windows or sunroof had constant power they’d work without the key. That’s typically the test.

 

I just checked the cargo lamp with the button on, not door, and it didn't time out after 15 minutes which was surprising. Not sure if it eventually will or not, but I figured it might to keep you from killing the battery in case you forget to shut it off.

 

I have a Rexing with an add-a-fuse harness for constant power. Looks like I used CIG fuse for ACC and replaced the 25A S/ROOF fuse with the 15A supplied. https://www.tundras.com/threads/yzeds-2017-mgm-sr5-build.14395/page-2#post-2260864 Looks like I checked each with a multi-meter and the sun roof must have had constant.

I have had no issues with camera not working or draining battery, and camera has worked while parked overnight to initiate recording before. Been almost 2.5 years.

 

Perfect. Thanks for the heads up. I'll start there.

 

ALRIGHT I've got it solved gents!

So I looked at doing 25A Sunroof for Constant Power and CIG for ACC but they're too close on mine to make it work with the cords coming off of these taps. Instead I did 25A Sunroof and 30A P Seat FH Left for ACC and it seems to work like a charm. It's super important to have the cord facing in the right direction as well!

 

Disregard my last, the power seats are also always on and this drained my battery. Now I've got it hooked up to the 30a seat fuse for constant power and cig for acc, we'll see if this works or if my battery is dead tomorrow!