Timing mark alignment

Sorry if I'm missing something, but is the truck running rough after, or have you not fired it up yet?

If the difference on one cam is less than one-third tooth, I think I'd probably just accept it and fire it up. But I'm not the expert, I haven't done the TB/WP on my 2UZ yet. Defer to input from others.

 

yeah that was my approach - I couldn't see how to get it any better so I fired it up. seems to run ok just idles rough. Haven't seen how the fuel consumption is yet though.

 

Was idle rough prior?

Is idle low, or just rough? If you tap the gas, does it smooth out?

Any unusual sounds?

Any codes pending or set?

 

Man, looking from your pictures your timing marks look beautiful. I mean pictures can be deceiving but it looks like you're less than 1/4 of a tooth off? It looks good. I would bet my money on something else. Re-trace, and re-re-trace everything you did when you did the timing belt and coils. I would not change anything else (at least, i would TELL you not to change anything else, but honestly i would fall for the same trap) until you can narrow it down. IIRC having just done a timing belt change, many of the vacuum lines that you take off are near the passenger side of the engine, make sure you've got all them accounted for.

 

Found this old picture from when I did mine. Angle is off a little but appears the marks are ever so slightly off on my right cam too. Mine runs great.

 

thanks Pnwtundy, I appreciate the feedback. Good to hear that those marks aren't standing out as a necessarily the problem.

 

appreciate you posting that, that is more evidence that I need to hunt down all other angles first.

 

If you're positive you've made it thru a relearn cycle, and you're not popping any codes, and it's idling chunky/low, the advice above about poring over (and potentially replacing) every vacuum line is worthwhile. Before that, put your hands on everything you touched, every connector, unplug, check for bent pins, re-plug. Make sure you properly secured the crank position sensor out of harm's way, since it's such a common mistake.

 

Just closing the loop on this thread for future posterity: I ended up making a smoke tester and didn't find any leaks. Was debating between buying a scan tool and seeing if I could find anything with fuel trims and taking it in to a pro. Took it into a great local shop the specializes in Toyotas and they found a misfire in cylinder 7 that was mild enough to not throw a code. They pulled the plug and found that the gap was too tight. Swapped it to another cylinder and the misfire followed. Replaced the plug, (or re-gapped, not sure) and all is well! I must have messed up the gap somehow when installing. Very happy that's all it was and thanks to everyone here for all your input!

 

9 times out 10. It’s something simple af

 

Thank you for posting the resolution!

 

Complexity bias is real