2002 SR5 Sequoia codes driving crazy

Hello everyone, new here and read a few threads that didn’t help me.
So three weeks ago I drove an hour away and back. Was running low on gas and stopped at some shady gas station and put a few gallons. On trip back it threw a p0430. Thought to myself oxygen sensor that I bought off Amazon didn’t last but two years. Well that code clear on its own, so I thought must have been bad gas. Well now I was driving all of sudden it starting shuddering like a transmission problem I thought what now, low fluid. Well I look down at dash and the cel is flashing, I’ve never seen a flashing cel. Limped it home checked the code and it was p0307. Ok easy enough I put a new coil pack and spark plug. Bam! Problem fixed. Well two weeks later I start her up and bingo it’s misfiring. Checked the code it’s P1330 and p0430. Turned it off and looked up that code. Ok loose wire or old wire. Fiddle with it started it it runs fine. A day later same code p1330, but no p0430. I’m stumped. Sorry for rambling on. Thanks for listening. Sorry for any spelling and grammar. I’m also going through posterior subcapsular cataracts, losing my site pretty fast. Rambling. Thanks againfor any help

 

Need more info.

How many miles?

When you popped the cat code, did you change sensor(s) on the passenger side or drivers side? Upstream, downstream, or both? What brand sensor did you buy? You know scAmazon is notorious for counterfeit parts, right? And weird symptoms like what others have found when using non-OEM (non-Denso) parts when replacing anything electrical.

When was the last timing belt change, and was it within Toyota's recommended 9yr/90k mile window?

When the timing belt was changed, did you also change the water pump? Tensioner and pulleys also?

Have you taken a 10mm to loosen one/both timing covers and check the condition of the belt, just to make sure it's not dicked up from oil pump or water pump throwing fluids on it? If you toss the belt at above-idle RPMs, your engine is almost guaranteed to transform into a boat anchor.

 

Like shifty' asked, what brand of parts did you use? These trucks are super finicky with certain aftermarket parts.

 

Okay. Don’t remember brand. Haven’t replaced yet since code went off. Miles = 263,600. Yes timing belt was done at Toyota before I purchased it. What baffles is once it warms up the code is gone. Can a bad o2 sensor make it throw p1330?

yes I bought the cheapest Amazon had when I replaced the o2 sensor and it was the downstream sensor.

 

THe O2 sensor could explain the cat code. Google isn't very helpful when it comes to the p1330 code, but some sites said it's cylinder 7 which is the misfire you got earlier. WHat brand of coil did you replace it with? Try moving the coil pack to a different cylinder and see what happens.

 

Denso # 673-1303 haven’t tried swapping will do that tonight

 

Do you like electrical issues? Because this is how you get electrical issues, using cheap, shit-made parts from online vendors whose storefronts are perforated with cheap knockoffs. Sadly, those cheap parts are cheap for a reason: They're low quality. The manufacturer didn't invest money in R&D so the part is inferior or straight-up stole the design by tearing apart someone else's and re-making it with the cheapest components possible. And they're also not paying for anyone to do quality control and QA testing on the parts, because that would cut into maximum profit margins.

At this point in time - not even just for our Toyotas - I won't buy anything except OEM parts in most cases, direct from a trusted vendor. You can't trust scAmazon, fleaBay, or any other online vendor who lets 3rd party unverified vendors sell. And you damn sure can't trust no-name parts, or name-brand parts that are re-badged from another source (Moog and NAPA.... I'm looking at you)

The funny thing is, Toyota's Field Service Manual doesn't even list this code in their diagnostics section that I can find. Which makes me very, very suspicious of the code reader used to pull the code, if the manufacturer doesn't even list the code in their service manual.

So I turned to online and looked here: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1330_toyota.html

It would appear, yes, a faulty coil pack could throw this code, but I'm not convinced, I don't think anyone here's had it in the 1st gen section in recent history, except for a specific timing problem caused by incorrectly managing a cam seal swap - they usually get a misfire if the coil pack goes bad.

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Swapped the (NEW) (DENSO) coil pack with 5 and no still same code. Toyota has the o2 sensor which I’ll replace tomorrow and continue to work on this.

 

Swap the coil pack with the known-working coil pack next to it. Clear codes. Does code still pop, stay the same?

Can you give us a picture of the entire engine bay?

Can you take a minute to pop off each coil pack’s connector, inspect the insides for corrosion, bent pins, burn marks?

I would also check all the engine bay grounds, and maybe for shits n giggles, run a temporary ground from the battery tot the engine block to see if the issue persists.

 

Here's a kernel of wisdom from that other site...upstream sensors.

 

Thanks. I read the thread, I did get a p0430 code, hasn’t come back. So I’m still at a loss.

 

Read Hewitt Tech's response in that thread again. You replaced upstream sensor with the cheapest possible one you could find online, right? Your own admission above.

Which upstream sensor did you replace? Try unplugging it, then clearing the codes, then drive. You'll throw a code for the "missing" O2, but do P133x code(s) continue? If not, your problem is ultimately the 1st sentence in reply #7. If yes, try unplugging the other upstream, then clear the code and drive. You'll throw a code for the other "missing" O2, but do P133x code(s) continue? If yes, it's probably not the upstream sensors causing electrical issues. If the codes stop with either, go to a legitimate source and buy the correct Denso O2 upstream part. Truth of the matter? You should really replace O2 sensors in pairs (upstream+downstream) at the same time so you're not expecting a new, fresh sensor to provide a proper delta with an old, tired sensor. That's another way to get bogus codes and P0430/P0420 codes.

 

The code was p0430 but hasn’t showed up again. Never said I replaced upstream sensor, per my “Own admission”. The code showed up once hasn’t showed up again, just the p1330. I’ll try unplugging and clearing the code.

 

I found this that might be helpful for you. It says that the P1330 is a "Igniter circuit malfunction #7. If DTC P1330 is displayed, check No.7 ignition coil with igniter circuit."

 

I read this,

But I still see this,

And I honestly don't know what to tell you. If you replaced an O2 sensor, upstream would be the most common with a P0430, is it not the case? You didn't pluralize, and downstream would be unusual, though changing both upstream and downstream on bank2 would be "correct" action to take for P0430 or P0420 unless you had other conditions that led to rich/dirty combustion for a long period of time.

You either bought a cheap, "cheapest possible", non-Denso O2 sensor off scAmazon or didn't. Which is it?

Hewitt, who engineers emissions bypass systems professionally, I think would know more about this topic than anyone. If they're saying there's a shared ground and backfeed from O2 sensors can lead to this P1330 code, and you're telling us you installed the "cheapest possible O2 sensor off scAmazon", and knowing O2 sensors are on the short list of parts these trucks are sensitive about, and it's super important to use legitimately-sourced OEM/Denso parts with, then ... I dunno what to tell you here, except, you may want to be looking at that as your culprit.

To rule out this being a coil pack problem, you can swap the coil on cylinder #7 (2nd from firewall, driver's side) with coil pack #6 (2nd from firewall, passenger side) and see if you still misfire. You'll want to check the pins on both, and I'd also swap the spark plugs from side to side also, not only to inspect, but to see if the P1330 changes to another code.

But at the end of the day, the info we have at hand:

• P0430 and P0420 is often caused by a bad upstream, sometimes a bad downstream O2 sensor
• These trucks are sensitive to aftermarket O2 sensors; Denso is OEM
• You should ideally change the upstream/downstream sensor with Denso's "exact-fit" part simultaneously on the affected bank (bank2/passenger in this case).
• Hewitt says backfeed from an O2 sensor can cause P1330, which you're seeing now
• It's suspicious you say you used a cheap O2 sensor and after, the cat code went away, but this P1330 started, given what Hewitt is saying

I'm not telling you to go out and buy new O2 sensors. I'm just laying it out there: If you replaced any O2 sensor on this truck with non-Denso brand parts, you should look long and hard at that being the problem.

You would NOT be the first (nor be the last) who installed non-Denso O2 sensors on a 1st Gen Tundra/Sequoia and regretted it, chased gremlins after, or had other problems as a result.

 

Never said P0420. P0430 Showed up once and has yet to code again. i don't remember if I mentioned, But I installed that "CHEAP o2 Sensor" three or so years ago.

As to the which is it, I already said I installed a cheap o2 sensor.. thanks for your help, but all pass on any other help from you. I don't need to be lectured ever other post from you. Noy everybody is flush with cash and can buy top dollar parts.

 

Correct, that's exactly what I said above too. I mention P0420 also, in case someone finds this post later via Search and actually wants to listen to solid advice. P0430 and P0420 are the same code, different engine banks.

2-3 years is the average maximum lifetime you should expect out of modern aftermarket parts. I'm actually surprised it lasted that long before shorting out. That's the problem with non-OEM parts. Your OEM sensors probably lasted you 15+ years. Because your OEM, Toyota, has invested a shitload of money in R&D and testing to ensure their replacement parts will last a "lifetime". Their name depends on it. However, OMGCHEAPPARTSBRAND on scAmazon... they just want your money, and to capitalize on "This is half as much! It can't be that bad, right?!" And 2-3 years from now, that store/brand has closed down. Local parts stores get around this by offering you a "lifetime warranty", free exchange at failure. I find that failure usually comes with 1-3 years.

It's not a top dollar part. OEM Denso brand from RockAuto.com is $31 for each downstream sensor if you're 4WD, and $50 for the upstream, @Rinko48. I'd say $165 to buy parts you won't need to replace for 10 years, and won't cause the issues you're having now is worth it, eh? It's cheaper than one hour of diagnostics from a licensed shop!

But you do you. If you can't handle direct feedback and advice from others, maybe asking for advice from strangers on the internet who've seen more crazy stuff with these trucks than you isn't a good choice for you personally.



Quick edit:

Using parts checker at www.densoautoparts.com, here's where the info above is sourced:

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Fixed! I yes, I should’ve checked the Denso coil pack on a different cylinder. Of course the new Denso coil pack was bad. Toyota replaced It. Runs like a champ!

I want to thank everybody that gave me help and suggested things, didn’t think of switching the new Denso coil pack with a different cylinder.

 

Glad it worked out!

 

Guy really says he doesn't want help from the most reasonable, helpful, knowledgeable, nice guy on the forum. Words are getting jumbled up in each post, everyone is trying to help out and are just trying to be on the same page. Glad your truck is lined out though.

 

Reasonable? Not the way I saw it. I didn’t come here to get lectured about the parts I used or what I did or didn’t do.

 

That's just it, it's not a lecture. I get it, it's your perspective, and I understand why you'd read it like it's a lecture, but look at it this way:

We have 1,000+ folks come to this forum looking for help every year, maybe more. Usually a couple per day, every day.

We've all seen some shit over the years, and have found repeatedly specific parts (type of parts) known to cause issues on the '00-'06 Tundra and up to '07 Sequoias. We've also found specific brands which are problematic. And we've also seen problems that traced back to people getting knockoff parts online, specifically from scAmazon and fleaBay. I'd ballpark about 1/3 of the problems we see could've been prevented if people just bought OEM brand parts (not dealership priced parts, but OEM brand parts like Denso or Aisin) from a legitimate source.

We've also seen - for example - about a two dozen trucks trashed already this year, either totalled, flipped, or otherwise destroyed because someone either didn't know, or didn't believe us when we told them, "Yo - ONLY use OEM lower balljoints, there's a known issue!" but they were, like, "Yeah right, them shits are EXPENSIVE, bro! Not gonna do it!". If you don't believe me ... here's some proof: , , link, link, link, link, link, link, link. All because people don't want to listen that "this is one of those parts you only buy OEM".

I've only been on here posting for about 3½ years, but lurked for a year or two before joining. I've been watching it unfold for about 5 years now, as long as I've owned my Tundra. I hate to think of what it must be like for dudes who signed up 7-10 years ago, watching people make the same mistakes over and over ......

But at the end of the day, it is what it is: We're on the internet. You're not being charged a dime for advice here, but we're going to stick with you until the problem is solved. We're also not getting paid to help you. If you have thin skin or are easily offenderd, that's a problem because some of us are gonna talk directly about stuff without any pleasantries, and probably going tell you some shit you don't want to hear, or make you feel "lectured" because we have no f'n clue how much you actually know mechanically, or what you know about classic problems we repeatedly see with these trucks given your specific symptoms.

It is what it is. Your problem is solved. Advice above for diagnostics provided by myself and at least one other person helped you solve it. You said thanks, which is more than most people do. Have a nice day.

 

Everyone new on here used to buy shit parts, and after hearing story after story of said shit parts failing, since have learned.

For the record, my Bro in Law has a failing O2 Senor right now, 06’ Sequoia, he replaced it with a cheap one from Amazon 4 months ago.

 

Have a nice day!