SPC uppers

So I put in the SPC uppers, and I get the whole adjustment part except for one thing. The top bolt has the ability to slide ( when loosened) towards truck or away from truck, as in pic. The SPC instructions don't actually mention this bolt or where to set it, aside from torque specs. In guessing since is slides, it's to due with alignment? If so, what would be a good preliminary spot to put it in?

 

I swear their instructions did for me, and suggested setting it close to center, and to clock the UBJ at a specific position, "D".

You need to be careful to torque that down to at least 100-125lbft to lock it in before putting vehicle weight on it, with a final on-the-ground torque of 150 so it doesn't shift when you lower the truck. And VERY sure the little star-holed rectangular piece under the arm which allows it to slide is FIRM in the slot.

Furthermore, double-check the torque and clocking position after alignment. Shops don't seem to know wtf to do with that thing.

 

Yea alright I'll put it closer to center, yea unfortunately I don't have a big enough torque wrench , I'll have to figure that out. Thanks!

 

Proof, and a warning about the star plate, and note the caster is mirrored from left to right, although the neutral setting "D" has the logo perfectly parallel to the door skins on each side:

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This is an excellent budget split-beam wrench. Doesn't require you setting torque to zero when done with use, and has ample length for great leverage.

$150 TEKTON 1/2" Drive 72-Tooth Split Beam Torque Wrench (40-250 ft.-lb.) TRQ62203

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B4BFXNJ9?ie=UTF8

You'll also need a 1-1/4" socket IIRC. You'll be using this in other places on your truck if your current wrench can't do 90+

 

Yea I've got the socket already, and kk I must have missed the center position thing , I'll check my instructions again, but I probably just missed it. Thanks!

 

Not trying to harp, but sometimes missing little details can really bite you in the ass later. I'm not a hardcore "RTFM" kinda guy, but when it involves something that could easily end my life or cost ample $$$$ if missed, well, I read it twice or thrice

During my coilover install, I actually read the instructions so hard I found a pretty signifcant typo in Toytec's instructions! I hope they've fixed that by now.

 

Haha yea fair enough no I definitely won't skimp on this one, I'll buy a torque wrench if I have to.

Question on alignment specs, I read the number as per this post:

Question on C or D, so if I understand correctly C got you closer to the number on the post, but D got you closer to OEM? Why would we aim for those different numbers VS OEM?

 

So here's the deal.

*In theory* if you clock the UBJ at 'D' and set the balljoint in the center of the slot, you'll probably end up in damn near back in alignment. I'd always take it to a shop to check, but I was damn near dead-nuts on after my CO and UCA install.

If you intend to hit @assassin10000's recommended high-caster numbers, especially if you go to a big-box shop who never deals with custom suspension/offroad suspension (therefore they will know fuckall about these SPC arms), I would personally clock the UBJ to 'C' on both sides - i.e. the flat face of the balljoint will rotate one notch toward the front bumper, SPC logo facing toward the bumper corner - then the shop can probably get away with their usual toe-and-go, and only manage minimal dial-in for camber/caster using the LCA cams.

I'm not the expert on this, I do not do this for a living, nor regularly. So you may want to hang around for a 2nd opinion.

 

Kk good to know . I'm also doing Lowers and can bolts and the old alignment was garbage, so I don't have a good starting spot... I think I'll leave it in D and see where it goes

 

If you haven't done the LCAs yet, You can mark all four positions on your cams with a paint marker to tag center and replicate with the new ones, it should get you pretty close.

Honestly, you can get any vehicle aligned 90% of the way there with a tape measure and a 3ft level. It's how I confirmed mine, the shadetree/goodnuff way

Tape measure to get the front edges of your tires as close as possible to the rear edge, but if you don't spin in/out your tie rods, you may find it's already OK. Use a section of 2x4 laying flat against the sidewall of both tires to get a good measurement.

Then use the level to set the camber vertically plomb.

So we're clear on those terms and what they mean... Camber set with level; toe set with TRE. Is it perfect? No. Good enough to drive 30mi to get a pro alignment? Totally.

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Yea exactly, I get the gist of how it works but I'm happy to pay a shop for this , I've also changed the tie rod ends. Everything is getting out back to what it was approximately before ( cam bolts going back to what they were before) so I'll be back to a shitty alignment like it was before, lol. Uppers were the only variance due to now being SPC.

Lowers are already out , cam bolts all cut. I couldn't do a good mark because of fluid film and rusty garbage, but I took pics of all of them so I'll get em close enough

 

I’m reading 32mm everywhere else. Will 1 1/4” work? Don’t want to get the wrong thing.

 

32mm is 1.259".

You'll be fine with either.

 

What Assassin said, but I’d just add, I’m coming from a lifetime of working on mostly GM vehicles, primarily trucks. Thus mostly standard tools when it comes to weirdly large sizes. Just so happens the conversion works here, similar to how 3/4” is a good sub for 19mm (.02” diff’ce)

 

Thanks man! I installed these recently and must've missed that line. Mine is closer to the outside edge, and it makes the steering knuckle sit REALLY close to the tire. Only a finger width between the two. I'll get this corrected over the weekend

 

Ahhhh...the good ol 32mm and 1-1/4”. My KTM 990R uses those sizes for the front axle nut, rear axle nut, counter sprocket nut, and clutch center nut. One size to rule them all! I went as far as to engrave the socket size (and torque spec) onto the nuts.

 

How much space is required or recommend? I think i have about 7/8 of a finger’s width of space between my tire and the stock UCA.

 

Not sure but it seemed awfully close. These are stock rims, though. I have a set if TRD rims that will go on soon, no tires on them yet. But the TRD's offset should push the tire away from the knuckle some

 

Actually, my instructions didn't include that line. They must've done a revision at some point. But also I haven't gotten around to adjusting anything yet since it's a project vehicle under construction

 

I thought all the Toyota wheels had the same offset, with the exception of the Rock Warriors.

 

That sheet is for the SPC 25470, which I believe is for Tacomas: https://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=25470
Instructions: https://www.spcalignment.com/instructions/25470-INS_WEB.pdf

The sheet I shared is for SPC 25485 which most of us used our Tundras (and is also sold by Eibach + one other company I won't mention): https://www.spcalignment.com/new-products/299-toyota-light-truck-ucas-25485
Instructions: https://www.spcalignment.com/instructions/25485-INS_WEB.pdf

I don't think I knew SPC was offering a new, maintenance-free (zerkless) upper balljoint for these. Interesting. I wonder what longevity of that BJ looks like compared with the greasable version?

 

Depends on which year and vehicle you're talking about. Some folks using newer Tacoma wheels have found different fitment than the 1st Gen OEM alloys

 

The steelies I had OEM are about 1"+ offset from the OEM starfish

 

My bad, didn’t realize this was the 1st Gen forum. In the 2nd Gen world, all OEM wheels have the same offset with the exception of Rock Warrior.