Blue Ribbon 4x4 Build Thread

Is that at least high beams????

 

Do high beams have cutoffs like that?

 

Geno does what Geno wants. I've learned to just watch and be in awe

 

The cutoff is super crisp. They will be adjusted below the retinas.

 

The way these projectors work is there’s a little metal flap that is the cutoff. Hit your high beams, and the flap moves, allowing the full projection. It’s just one light in the unit. It actually doesn’t get any brighter, just allows the light above the cutoff.

 

This is valid. LOL

It's all above my skills. I just like the show.

 

Zach and I wanted to show the difference between the 3” and 2-1/2” projectors. After looking at the specs more closely, I’m happy to go with the 2-1/2”. While the 3” are brighter, the output of the 2-1/2” is superb. The power draw is what I don’t like about the 3”, I don’t need anything getting too hot inside the headlamp.

2.5” projectors
6000K
20,000 lm
92W
7.7A

3” projectors
6000K
25,000 lm
140W
11.7A

 

Ok check it. I downloaded a light meter for my phone. I’m sure we all know these apps are kinda gimmicky, it’s not an actual light meter. But the lumens came pretty close to the rating given by the manufacturer.
The 2.5” was supposed to be at 20,000 lm, and my rating came out to 22,120 lux. Lumens and lux are somewhat the same numerical value, but I can’t describe the difference easily, which means I don’t fully understand it.
Basically lumens is the amount of light radiated from the LED, lux is the measurement of light concentrated on a specific spot. I measured 10ft from the lens, I’m curious to what 25ft looks like. 25ft is the measure from which to adjust the headlight to the proper height and angle.

 

And I already have a screw up. The supplied brackets for the angel eyes don’t fit the projectors, so I clipped them from the screw holes (the mistake) and taped them to the inside of the lens housing. With all the testing so far of the projectors, the heat has softened the adhesive and the tape let go of the housing. I’ve ordered new angel eyes, and I’ll be remounting them with a small screw on the inside of the housing. I’m glad it happened now instead of after sealing the headlights.

 

Installing the halos in the back of the shrouds. The halos have tiny eyelets to attach using small gauge wire. A few 1/16” holes drilled towards the rear of the shrouds and we’re in business. Just made sure the wire comes out the bottom to be routed to the rear when the projector gets mounted.

 

Those lights always remind me of the Goblin's pumpkin bombs.

 

My neighbor designed and built those for the studio! Well, that was his story. He builds all kinds of shit.

 

Really? That's pretty freakin' cool!

 

He worked for the studios building props. He told me all kinds of different items but those I remember specifically. He has crazy stuff. Like six wheeled Model Ts with snow tracks.

 

Well, tell him that it was an epic real world adaptation for something so unrealistic from my childhood. I salute his efforts, as that was the first iteration of the Green Goblin I actually liked in all my years as a fan of Spider-man.

 

I will definitely relay the message! I’m sure he’ll be thrilled to hear someone appreciating his efforts.

 

Those lights look amazing Geno great work!

 

Thanks Niko!

 

Ok, we’re advancing here.

I’m going 1K satin clear over Cobalt blue metallic. Once I open my current lights I’ll show what happened to the paint. It really seems no matter how much prep, the paint peels from the plastic when I use 2K clear. I attribute it to the heat in the desert and my truck gets a lot of sun time. For some reason I haven’t had any issues with the taillights.
Paint matching is useless with 1K clear, so going a little brighter blue to be more visible inside the headlight.

 

Been slacking off, really. Need to find a block of time that my current lights can be apart for a few days. Everything is wired up, harnesses are ready. Decided to do a two tone bezel again.

 

Showing the harnesses that go inside and outside of the headlight.
To start, I used some old secondary boots from old HID harnesses. If you trim the OEM boot, they fit nicely inside and make a tight seal.

The projector came with a four lead harness that had to be cut to pass the wires through the secondary boot. I soldered them back together and used reversed two lead harnesses so they can’t be confused from each other. One is for the LED and one is for the fan. The top double lead with the red plug is the angel eye and the bottom double black/red & white is the high beam.
Wiring up this way allows all wires and harnesses to be removed before going in the oven.
I’ve already rewired the grille light to accommodate two more leads to go to the angel eyes. All that is left wiring-wise is to solder the last harnesses and wrap up the external wires. Then everything will be plug and play.

 

Got the grille lights hooked up to the rock lights. Looks like the grille needs two more lights in the center to even out the light.

 

Full transparency time. My oven stopped working. Figured out it was the thermostat. Got the part, installed it, made a pizza. Pizza came out great...because it gets cooked at 450°. I didn’t check the actual thermostat function. So the headlight went in at 200° (perfect temperature). 5 minutes later and a smoke filled kitchen it came out blazing hot. Threw a thermometer in there and it was at 350°. So if you’re cooking headlights, please make sure your oven works. We can’t all be astronauts.
Housing melted and the lens warped.

 

Sorry Geno. I know that has to suck

 

Yep. But I do have another set of headlights to use. Unfortunately this was a brand new headlight. Came off a new truck a few years ago when he upgraded.

 

So this wasn't the newly painted headlight?

 

No. I’m replacing the lenses, and needed the side marker lenses since I don’t want painted ones anymore. So this was gonna be a base.

 

Replacing the lights in the grille and some insight on how I make electrical connections.

These lights came with connections to be able to lengthen the light strip. I just threw a shrink tube on there and pinched the tip when hot so it melts together.


The top strip can be zip tied to the grille since you can’t see the ties with the hood down. The adhesive on these things are notorious for being crap. The bottom strip used the adhesive strip then siliconed the edges to the grille.


I wired two strips to one harness. This is where the leads are soldered, to the left is a large shrink tube for the finish, to the right are the small shrink tubes for each lead, the braided jacket held by a small clip, and a medium shrink tube to hold the jacket at the end.


Both leads with the shrink tube.

The medium shrink tube, covering the braided jacket end so it doesn’t unravel.


The large shrink tube covering the two wires from the lights and the medium shrink tube.


Done! I’ll get night pics later today. Retrofits are on their way!!

 

Tried something with the turn signal. Might grow on me. First impression is I kinda don’t like it. I also included a photo of no modification to the turn.
Also got that night shot of the grille light.