UCA bolt not budging

Arg. Is there a trick or am I just not strong enough to break this thing loose? I've hit with Liquid Wrench and heat. The nut is not moving. With the brake lines right next to the nut, there isn't a whole lot of space. Ideas welcome.

 

Cheater bar, if you have a long hollow tube, throw it over the breaker bar or ratchet and you should be good.

 

Would love to but I can't get the bar to fit in there with the socket.

 

Have you tried the other end? Sometimes the bolt head is easier than the nut

 

When I changed out my UCA, I had to use a cheater bar on my breaker bar to get the nut loose. Ended up using the arm from the floor jack as my cheater bar. That nut was on crazy tight, even my impact wouldn't budge it.

 

Yea. It moved a tiny bit. Working on it.

 

Seriously? You're awesome.

 

Dammit Sean. I want a shirt.

 

Gotta love this forum huh? So many good people willing to lend a hand!

 

Changed mine recently - 2nd Gen
Sprayed liquid wrench overnight and again next morning.
I used a 22mm 6-point closed wrench. Then used another large wrench to lock into the open end. Then slowly break nut.

 

I have a long used catheter tube you can borrow.

 

Got the nuts removed on both sides. Now, how do I get the bolt out? I'm stymied as there doesn't seem to be much room and I'm not sure what can be moved. The Haynes manual I have is zero help.

 

Pull the bolt out towards the battery (I think you have to remove it first) it's a long and aggravating sumbitch, but it can be done

 

Drivers side = remove battery, and loosen battery wire that is bolted to side (i think)
Passenger side = thread through the hoses, helps with two people, or wiggle/push to try to get movement.

The driver side was much easier than passenger for me.

 

See my link

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-to-install-adjustable-uca-25490-help.15214/

 

Got passenger side. Working on driver side. Thanks for the input. Finally feel like I'm making progress this morning.

 

Post a pic of what you working with.......

 

Well. Shit. I think the driver side nut is either stripped or super stuck. It keeps bouncing between the third and fourth thread. Now what?

Camburg Kinetik UCAs and King coilovers with remote resis. I think I need to go find a spring compressor to get these in there.

 

Your bolt is stripped between those threads.

 

I thought you got both nuts out, and were just working on the bolts? If you have a friend, use a bar to pry the LCA down and align the shock, it takes a bit of finesse to get everything aligned. I did it w/ a breaker bar and my knee. Took me probably 5-6 tries to get the lower shock bolt aligned and in. I tightened the top almost all the way before attempting the bottom.

 

Yea. So did I. It was moving when I typed and I get overly ambitious.

Been trying the break bar method. Can't get the LCA to drop low enough. Disconnected the seay bar link as well. Top of the shock gets about halfway into the tower and no more.

 

Do the top first. I tried both methods, and bolting the top was the only way I could get the coilover to position correctly. Also, make sure that the unbolted sway bar isn't hitting the bottom of the coilover, this also caused me issues when trying to get my setup bolted in. I had to totally push it out of the way, check the photo below.

 

Cutting it off. Advance Auto down the street has a replacement bolt. Camburg included new nuts with the arms. Running up to get new blades for the SawzAll then to pick up the bolt and spring compressor. The rears better be a breeze after this. Hope I didn't just jinx myself...

Btw, you guys are awesome. Thanks for all the help. Virtual or by phone. Much appreciated. Drinks on me.