2000-2006 Tundra big brake upgrade kit (14WA calipers)

@Hard_Knox_Blount I removed mine.

 

Thanks for the reply. Im going to do the same but was just curious if you retained yours. Thanks!

 

I just ordered the calipers and had them sent over to Jim's. What rotors and pads you going with? Im thinking Advics and pads???

 

You can go OEM and you would be looking for either a 2014-2019 (I believe) Lexus GX460 or 2014-2017 Toyota 4Runner rotors and brakes.


I choose these because they look cooler.

$311 Power Stop Brake Kit For 2010-2022 Lexus GX460 Toyota 4Runner - Front Z36 Truck & Tow Brake Kit with Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads and Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors Replacement, K5873-36

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6QJSVQ?ie=UTF8

 

Hey Lou,

Your in my old stomping grounds, the good ol LBC! I miss that place, I had a house in Lakewood for a good while!
Those power stops do look Cool BTW!

 

No way! I actually live in Lakewood. I just put LBC because nobody knows where Lakewood is.

 

Yessir! Its been a minute, I left in 2005. My son went to Stephen Foster, it's a small World. Man is Micasa still in business? I still Dream of their Mexican food! Also used to be a Chinese spot off Bellflower Blvd. called Mings! Damn I miss the food in California! SUPERMEX, I remember when the first restaurant was off of 3rd street. When I left they had like 11 restaurants. Man, time flies by.....seems like another life ago.

 

Mi Case is still there and Mings is gone. I've been living in Lakewood since 1992 and things haven't really changed, just more traffic.

 

Everywhere my brother, at times it seems like the Earths population doubled. I got to Texas about 11 years ago (I HATE IT BTW) and the traffic is ridiculous. The Highway here is like a backroad back home, the infrastructure here is a joke! They blame it all on the Californians, everything wrong with the State is California's fault. Oh well....

Regarding the brake upgrade, do you feel it was worth the trouble and expense?

 

This is not sustainable

 

Years ago I read "The Hot Zone" about the emergence of the Ebola Virus. It suggested that it had the potential to become a species threatening event, resulting in the deaths of a billion or more humans. My thoughts on this were "yeah...so?"

 

From my personal experience, yes. It definitely stops a lot better than stock. I know some people get the mushy brake pedal feel but I never got that. Most people who have good experiences are double cab guys and I don't know why.

 

Heed this ^^ @rrod

It's almost always the DC guys who rave about this upgrade. At least two AC owners have bitched about mushy feeling brakes after. Your later-model AC with the 13WL calipers is considered an "upgrade" for the earlier model AC/RC trucks that came with 13WA calipers. We've also noticed that it seems like DC owners with VSC complain the most about horrible braking experience, I don't see a lot of RC or AC guys (later model at least) saying their brakes suck ass. We see more ABS engagement complaints than anything, and those are usually issues with the ABS/WSS sensors.

I gotta say: I'm very happy with my brake response in my '06 AC using the stock 13WL calipers. Sometimes I feel like I'm the only one who appreciates the stock brakes. But recently, when I lifted, I realized why, the hard way: Your brakes are only as good as the rears and the LSPV are adjusted, and if you don't have a functional parking brake, you're fucked on rear adjustment. I lifted the rear, which threw the LSPV out of whack and re-proportioned too much braking to the front. After relocating the LSPV up 2" to match my lift, it was like magic, my braking was suddenly whole again. But it's worth noting, my LSPV had previously been adjusted upward to make the rears engage a bit more. There's a super easy trick to fool your LSPV into thinking you're carrying a load, redirecting more braking to the rears and that definitely will improve your braking experience, see here.

 

Yep. Another DC here... '06, non-VSC... and I couldn't be happier with how much better the truck stops with the GX460 brakes up front. (I also have SOS rear disc kit as well which made it even better.) The truck responds really well now to brake pedal.

 

Did you leave the LSPV or replace it with a different proportioning valve?

 

Still have the LSPV in place. It's been totally fine for every day driving.

However, I could feel quite a big difference in bias towards the rear when I was pulling my travel trailer around. After a 500 mile round-trip, the rear pads had worn significantly. So tongue weight is just pulling the rear of the truck down a bit (even with 3-leaf AAL kit in. but no overload leaf in). I cranked the LSPV sensor bar a good bit further down to avoid the heavy rear bias and I also added air bags. After same 500 mile round trip with the trailer, experience has been much better.

However, feels like it's not quite the right setup still with the LSPV and my setup and usage, so I plan to put in a wilwood manual prop valve that other guys have done. I would like to eventually do archive garage rear leafs as well.

 

Still doing these? I see in the original post they were like $350 painted I think. I have to assume the pricing has changed since 2020

 

I saw an FB post where he was sending people to Jim Smola to get these. I had mine done by Jim Smola and they've worked out great the past few months.

 

I recently did this upgrade on my 2006 Access Cab and love the improved braking feel. The setup also uses drilled and slotted rotors, EBC green pads and ATE SL6 brake fluid.

There is a slight increase in pedal travel due to the larger pistons on the 14WB calipers vs. stock. My next step is to upgrade the master cylinder to the sequoia master cylinder, it is larger in diameter and will deliver more fluid with less pedal travel. Access cabs use a 13/16" piston in the master cylinder, Sequoias (and double cabs) use a 15/16" piston.

Jim Smola performed the machining on the calipers, I recommend his services.

 

Finally got this done on my 05 DC with VSC and it is a huge improvement over stock. I used all OEM components + Stoptech SS lines and Jim Smola did the machining on my calipers. I removed the brake shields and had to bend the hard lines slightly to fit the new calipers but other than that it was a standard swap.

I can't speak for other DC w/VSC guys who had problems but I gravity bled the front after install then used the bleeding procedure from the FSM and I have a nice firm pedal with less pedal travel than stock. The truck takes way less pedal effort for normal stops and stops much quicker than before when braking hard.

 

Everyone that has had the work done by Jim Smola had nothing but positive things to say. I've seen at least 20 positive reviews between here and Meta.

 

I had him do new spindles with gussets and new bearings for me he does great work and super nice to deal with. I was only about a 2 hour drive from him and he actually installed them for me which I’m sure he would do for the breaks also definitely recommend him.

 

Thinking about doing the WA upgrade due to my WL rotors being warped slight pulse when breaking. My only concern would be having the WA upgrade than a caliper fail in the bush. The Sequoia is our designated adventure vehicle. Finding a replacement wouldn't be as easy as an off the shelf caliper due to the machine work. Any updates on those who have used WA calipers? How many miles, towing, overlanding?

 

Caliper pistons and seals are relatively easy to change out, if that's what goes wrong. If you have on-board air, you could likely push them out. If I was on the trail, I'd probably cap/pinch the line and drop it in low gear until I get to either a parts store to change it, or a campsite where you're out of the way (if you have the parts). Worst case, pick up some 13WL stuff for just one side and run that to get you home. (I don't have 14WAs, but I did catastrophically lose my brakes once and drove over an hour across the desert until I reached civilization...)

 

Carrying extra brake parts isn't something I really want to do. What failed on you? How our the WL holding up with the larger tires and gear?

 

Yep, hence why it took me so long to get back to civilization. RockAuto carries the pistons and seals, but no clue about a local store like Napa or AutoZone.

Never had a catastrophic failure on my fronts. But on my rear I have a rear disc conversion that is very similar to your rear brakes on the Sequoia. I had some hardware randomly back out and it sheared the caliper off it. It took the line with it, drained my fluid, and screwed up one of the caliper pistons and rotor. Since then, I spent extra coin on all that hardware and purchased grade 8 ARP hardware and torqued it to spec with red loc-tite.

The rear brake bleeder on the Sequoias is M10X1.0 and will serve as a plug for some female brake connections. Nice to have some of those in your tool bag instead of straight bolts so it's easier to remember to replace them or put them back once you get home.

I'm fairly happy with my brakes currently and they've done most everything I've asked of them once I have worked out the kinks. I recently did 4.88 gears, so that is affecting how often/much I need to brake too.

I would like 14WAs, but I do not need them with my current setup. I don't have 17" wheels currently, but if I do move up to 17s, my upgrade path will be 14WAs, then a 1-ton hydroboost master cylinder, then a big brake in the rear. All out yo.

 

Questions:
1. Best measurement to machine the calipers. I've seen both 3 and 3.5mm. I found a good local machine shop that will do the set for $90.
2. Best pads for heavy duty use, primarily towing performance. I've seen EBC "yellow Stuff" recommended. How about Powerstop 36 Towing pads? (I can get them in a kit with rotors,

$311 Power Stop Brake Kit For 2010-2022 Lexus GX460 Toyota 4Runner - Front Z36 Truck & Tow Brake Kit with Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads and Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors Replacement, K5873-36

K5873-36).
3. Anybody had problems with Powerstop calipers? If I could find good used OEM, I'd rebuild them, but haven't found a good set so far.

Looking forward to improved braking performance!

Thanks for your help.

 

There a yard with a 2016 4r with 14wb caliper I might pick up. They quoted me $150 for the pair.

 

Dropped my calipers off a local machine shop to get ears machined. Going 3.25mm. Should have them back by end of next week. Went with Powerstop for calipers, rotors and -36 pads.

For right now, I have my LSPV “manually” adjusted for max proportion to rear (spring rod is unbolted from axle and zip tied to underside of bed) - seems to be working OK. Pretty sure my LSPV is functioning as both it and the rear cylinders bled ok. I’ll readjust after new calipers and rotors are on. I think I can rig something up on the LSPV, maybe with an eyebolt or threaded rod (to screw adjust), so that this isn’t quite so redneck.

If I swap a Wilwood valve for the LSPV, I’ll install it up by the master cylinder. The Wilwood #260-8419 has npt ports, for which you can readily find npt to inverted flare adapters, so with a couple of short new brake lines (inverted flare both ends) and a plug for return line disconnect, installation can be easily accomplished. Installing the Wilwood valve under the hood will make it much more accessible and protected and allow much easier adjustment.

To delete LSPV, reconfigure steel brake lines: disconnect, remove and discard line between lspv and flex hose; disconnect pressure supply to lspv and reroute and connect to flex hose (which goes to axle); disconnect return line at lspv and remove/discard or “abandon in place”.

I’ll advise what I think about performance when I complete.