What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I want to avoid regearing and cutting. 33s will do. I’ll likely have to do some clearancing or additional lift in the front.

 

I priced some @bmf4069 pizza cutters (255/85/16) and damn. They high.

 

What's high? I'm not sure if you saw my post a few weeks ago but I went back and looked at my tire receipt from 2019. In 4 years the same tire has gone up in price 70%. It's bullshit. From $180/tire to over $300 now. Whatever we buy is going to hurt.

 

Day three of hauling Dad's old tractor WI to ID. The 20 yr old Tundra with 245K mikes ran perfectly over 4K miles, about 1,700 hauling a 5K lb trailer. Old Tundras inspire confidence.

I've been using the Gaia maps app for planning/recording various trips. It's especially helpful for hikes, bike rides, etc. but it helped on this trip in looking for the route with the least elevation gain. It's $40/year which is steep but I haven't found a map app that works well for less. Map app recommendations welcomed!

MPH and elevation across 28 hours of driving:


Average speed of 57.9 miles when moving, 21,499 ft of elevation gain (19,913 ft lost):


Unloading the huge mower, 7'3" wide, at home:

 

Yeah, my at3 xlt’s I got used for 600 feel like a deal right now. Hard to find decent condition used big meat these days. And 1200 is a lot to swallow.

 

at least $40 more per tire than the 285s. But cheaper 285s with no 255 equivalent can be had.

 

It was $1500 out the door for Cooper st maxx 255x85xr16. Equates to 33x10x16.

 

I ran these for about 6 years and felt they were very noisy



So I switched to these and have been much happier

 

But I want the fun ones at the top.

 

Sitrep fellers.

1. First of all thanks to @assassin10000 for the LH buttons. Arrived last night while I was at work and were extremely well packaged.

2. I was going to take the guts out and put them in the Chinesium control's plastic housing. There were some differences in the button contacts so I decided against it. I installed them as is.

3. I reset the

$63 ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface

ASWC-1 for the umpteenth time and let it program the radio and buttons again and still no go. The buttons still didn't all work and only a couple worked and not as they are labeled. Shit.

4. I popped open the iDatalink SW interface packaging, plugged it in to my desktop and flashed it for my year truck and Kenwood head unit.

5. Wired it in after removing the Metra interface and voila, worked from the first key on. Volume buttons, track buttons, and Mode button. I programmed only 2 Hold options. Press/hold Volume down to mute and press/hold Mode button to activate Google Voice assistant. Works like a charm.

I have working steering buttons. The RH side buttons are just a place holder now and we're completely left disconnected. The ribbon cable from the Chinesium buttons doesn't jive with the LH OEM buttons. No biggie. I accomplished what I wanted.

The Metra interface will be packaged up and shipped back for a refund. Thanks to all that provided guidance and help.

Onto the next project. I added a multi switch stalk today that has the fog switch built-in. I noticed I had the fog wiring taped up behind the bumper cover when I was dealing with the headlights a while back. I also purchased the fog relay but alas today I was unable to find the spot for it in my under hood fuse/relay boxes. I do have a 15amp fog fuse in the interior fuse panel beneath the driver's knee dash cover. None of my under hood fuse panels have a spot for the fog relay though.

Also I noticed that my DRL amber LED bulbs are not powering up when I'm in drive. I recall they used to at one point. I looked between the battery and inner fender to make sure I hadn't disconnected the plug but it too is missing in action. I don't have that plug in that area. I did notice a spot for the DRL RELAY in one of the fuse boxes under the hood but I can clearly see the pins aren't in the plastic plug where the relay would plug in so not sure what is up with that.


Edit. Just found a thread with info on that fog light relay location. The relay I ordered is not the right size from the pictures I just saw. Damn.

 

Had the AT52 tires on my Tahoe. I ran them at various pressures and they always looked like they were low. The sidewall must've been weak or something. They rode comfortable though and wore well.

 

The do wear well. After 6 years still had plenty of tread, but boy were they noisy. The ATs are a night and day difference.

 

Here's them pics. You can see the difference between the newer paint on the drivers side fender and the older paint on the hood.

Sun fade

 

Sitrep 2. Fogs are done. I managed to steal a rectangular relay from the tiny trailer and towing fuse panel under hood and managed to squeeze my hand up behind the interior fuse panel and got the relay plugged in. I even managed to plug in the LED fog light bulbs the right way around on the first time. Lol. Fogs now working. They turn off with high beam as intended. I may look into finding a way to keep them on with high beams like on my Ferd. All in all, a productive day with the Tundra. Gonna drive her to work tonight.

 

Goddamn whoever gapped the fenders did a fucking horrible job, must've been high af. The gaps are so uneven along the hoods it's silly. Too wide at the headlight on the pass side, almost so tight it'll scrape paint on the driver's side. Driver's fender is also sitting about 1/4" low, look at how it transitions into the a-pillar, and how high the hood sits above it.

 

Sounds about right. I paid $1,500 on my Mickeys with Denso sensors, install, mount, balance, and TPMS reprogramming.

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So weird, I'm almost positive @912 said he's also using the

$63 ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface

ASWC-1. Surely there must be something different about the wiring between the two of you or something? There must be a reasonable explanation here ...

 

The shop should have blended that hood, too. That color flop wouldn't be as noticable.

 

@Tantal here's that poke thread. 17x9 with 4.5 BS in reply # 30. 17x8.5 with 4.75 BS in reply # 37. This link will jump you straight to reply 30: https://www.tundras.com/threads/let-me-see-your-wheels.126855/#post-3322742

 

Not sure what the problem was. I followed his post regarding the pin connections. It's only 3 wires to the

$63 ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface

ASWC-1 along with ground and power and then just one wire from it to the stereo. Weird indeed. Anyway, iDatalink came thru with flying colors. Worked correctly on the first key on. I'm satisfied.

 

Anybody got a bulb number type for the rear license plate light on an 02 Tundra I can pick up at Autozone for a few bucks?

 

T10
Edit: it’s the same size as the door panel, 3 of the HVAC panel and I think 4 of the cluster

 

Thank you, sir!

 

Thanks. Mine are 4.5" backspacing with -6 offset. Should be fine, but worst case scenario is that I go more vertical on my lift if necessary.

 

That the same as a 194? That’s what I recall putting in mine.

 

Yes, interchangeable per Bubba in another post the other day.

 

Spot on, and I think they are in the Cargo light too aren't they, swear I threw 3 LEDs in there. 194/T10

$11 Marsauto 194 LED Bulb 6000K White 168 T10 2825 W5W 5SMD Replacement Bulbs for Car Dome Map Door Courtesy Side Marker Reading Glove Box License Plate Lights (Pack of 10)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079L3WBDN?ie=UTF8&th=1