ALL RESOLVED: Pop and lock wiring & blown fuses

so I have the installation done other than connecting to the correct wires apparently

their diagram says to connect to the red wire with black, and the black wire with red. This is behind the drivers kick panel on the wires going to the driver’s door

while we have not eliminated that the motor is not working I believe they feel it’s just a matter of connecting to the right wires. Thus far their tech-support and I’ve only traded Voicemails

anyone had this problem on a 06 Tundra DC?

 

Sometimes the wire colors do not match what’s expected. They do not stop the assembly line if they run out of a color. There are also multiple bundles of wires that may share the same color wire. Best to get a light tester or multimeter and test these wires for the appropriate action when locking and unlocking.

 

Thanks. I wasn’t sure what tool I would need.

I dang sure am not gonna randomly go through that entire wiring harness especially with those little connectors in that tight spot

 

Got a 9v battery?

If so, use it to test the motor. Back in the days of shaved handles, we used to setup a hidden 9v terminal somewhere on a vehicle that would let you pop the doors in case of dead battery. Similar concept. Tap off the wires to the motor accordingly. Does it pop?

 

I actually had one in my hand earlier and was going to try that but I thought I need to stop and be sure that would not cause any damage


so yes, just tested the motor does pop. Not enough to flip the switch but the motor is working

on a sidenote, I was dreading if I had the wires reversed because they said to then swap the male connectors by the panel which meant dealing with those annoying snaps again

but DOH - so much easier just to reverse the connectors where the wires from the motor in the tailgate connect to the wires leading out of the tailgate. Snap on snap off

 

didn’t even think about a light tester - so simple.

little bit out of the swing, but hopefully I’m catching back up quickly

 

While testing today I created a short and now I’m trying to track down which fuse. The airbag light stays on and I’m not sure if this is a coincidence but the key fob doesn’t work and the driver side power lock is not working when the key is off

I was also working in the door, replacing the power window motor and regulator but I’m pretty sure all of that was working correctly before I started back testing for the pop and lock


on a sidenote, I’m sure I will love this product, but it is not ready for prime time. I have traded voice messages for several days with the tech-support. I finally hear back from him today and I can barely understand him because the connection is so choppy on his end. He gave me a completely different set of wires other than what is in the instructions. And a better connection point between the two doors and my double cab, so that I don’t have to go to the kick panel where there are so many wires

 

Also the cabin lights do not come on when you open up the door.

It’s got to be a fuse inside the cab does it not? i swear I looked at all of those

 

At least one line (maybe two?) coming into the cab is fused at the engine bay fuse/relay box. If you have a multi-circuit failure across the cabin and beyond, you probably popped something there.

 

I checked all of those unless it is one of those large fuses that are different from the rest

I noticed it was enough to reset my clock

 

I would double check fuses in cab for sure but the only 2 showing up for "Illumination, Door Lock....etc" for a DC are the 2 below, one in Eng Bay, other in cab. May have blown both given it screwed with clock and airbag on/off light. Lessoned learned I hope, unhooking battery is a good practice !

 

Thanks much I’ll check on those

the problem was I was having to test wires because the pop and lock documentation was wrong so I could not disconnect the battery

 

How were you testing the wires and blew a fuse? Light tester shouldn’t cause that.

 

Understand....I'll be semi surprised if you don't find other fuses blown that haven't shown themselves yet.

 

When I was moving the handheld from one connection to another I was apparently slightly careless and connected across two wires

there was a good spark

 

That stinks. There are under hood fuses for some of the inside stuff too.

 

it should not been a problem. That’s on me. But it was frustrating - trying to get in touch with tech-support for three days and then them giving you totally different wires than what was on the instructions

 

What does this product even do? Remotely lock/unlock your tailgate handle? Generic door lock actuator should've worked perfectly fine for that, and only required a relay, switch, and actuator. Not dissimilar from what @The Black Mamba used to add power door locks in his truck recently.

 

Yes


I kept reading post after post where folks said that was the best add-on they ever did. I wondered about just using an actuator but didn’t see where anyone had tried that.

 

I checked all three of the 7 1/2 amp fuses inside the cabin and they all appeared fine

I wasn’t sure which one it was in the engine bay but I did test the cigarette lighter, the auto light shut off (assuming we’re speaking of headlights, but it could’ve been cabin lights) and the tail lights since they were all listed for the 140 amp fuse and they were all working

I will recheck all fuses in the interior in the morning with better lighting,

 

The other thing you can do also is get a larger fuse than normal, and unplug/plug into each slot as you go, just in case your eyes suck like mine. Or take a multimeter and set to test for continuity, then test each fuse in the inner panel, before moving to the engine bay panel

There's a fuse popped ... somewhere. Something shorted. You just need to figure out what.

 

That’s a good idea.

That’s the most frustrating part now of working on my truck, especially with the tiny little parts. at 62 the doc says my eyes are correctable to 2020 and I am wearing the glasses. but still they’re certainly not what they used to be no matter what he says

 

If you indeed have a meter, all of the little fuses can be checked by hooking meter black lead to gnd and touching the pos lead to the metal piece on each side of a fuses rating….should see 12vdc on both sides. Saves from having to pull them in case you can’t see em good.

 

I did have this meter from many years ago and it is still working. Trying to read up on the proper settings, but everything so far is for a different type of test

 

it did turn out to be one of the 7.5 amp fuses, but it was under the hood not in the cabin

 

You may know already but put red lead on other side where it says V. Turn knob CW to the black 20 black V which is a DC symbol.Then you can read any DC voltage under 20vdc

 

I never would’ve seen that this fuse was blown until the test confirmed it. Then I could see the smallest break without any black

 

Yeah, any time you see multiple circuits out from the cabin rearward, it's quite often under the hood IME. Especially if it came after one sparky event.