2021 Tundra Battery completely drained, now stalls right after starting

My truck sat for months waiting to go into the body shop, and the battery drained completely over that time. I've replaced the battery and it cranks and starts, gets to about 1400 RPM, then stalls and dies. I've double checked all the connections, everything seems fine. The only code that comes up is P1603, for TCM/ECM communications error. And then after trying to start, code P1604 for Rough Idle. If you clear everything, P1603 always returns immediately. Looking up that code and it could be any of 100 different things causing the issue.

After the wreck in March, the truck sat until May when I was able to drive it to the body shop. I also drove it back home June 2nd. Then it sat untouched until mid August, where this issue arrived.

Seems to be a ton of related issues to this when I searched, but all of them could still drive the truck before it stalls. No me. See attached youtube vid.

I'm going to try and order a techstream to connect, see if that brings up anything the Autel is missing...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmFrIZgDBTo

 

In the video are you giving it gas or is the truck doing all that by itself?

 

In that vid, no gas. I have another vid I'll link below where I gave it gas, it revs and then dies. I can actually floor it and get the revs up to 4k RPM, but it does the same stalling and dies few seconds after starting.

https://youtu.be/u_bPfvjoJpQ?si=2nhnHIqHQWI2ckAk

 

Those vids were taken before the new battery. Now the gauges move right away without the delay, but still stalls and dies

 

Sounds like another bad battery. I’d suggest having it load tested or monitor the voltage while cranking. Checking for codes wouldn’t hurt.

 

I'll take the voltmeter up there tomorrow, but the battery did seem fine. It cranks and starts straight away. Even did the procedure I read about the immobilizer, putting the truck in On position either for 15 minutes while key sits in truck, but same results

 

Like you said, this could unfortunately be a lot of things... if you bring it to Toyota is bet they will say it's the ECM and you need a new one simply based on the code.

Let's go back to the basics with some awful internet diagnosis! It does run, even briefly so it got some fuel, air and spark. The fluctuations in RPMs before dying pushes me away from spark or electrical, unless it's truly a bad ECM. It almost feels to me like the truck is trying to find air and the computer tries to compensate before shutting off.

If it was my truck, I would start with some simple things first. Check the MAF connectors, clean your MAF and look for any air leaks in the intake as well as any related vacuum lines.

 

Just ordered a techstream and should be here tomorrow.

Shop guy and I also thought vacuum/air issue. While I didn't clean the maf, we did pull it and it looks basically new. I'll bring some cleaner with me tomorrow to rule that out.

Link has a lot of troubleshooting info for my code. But requires techstream

https://www.ttundra.com/863/engine_stall_history_p1603_p1605_.html

 

I should also note that I added 14 gallons to make sure it had fuel. Also pulled the connector off the fuel rail to confirm it had pressure

 

If I remember correctly a surge idle like the 1st vid may be an oxygen sensor. I've seen it on the early 2000s Celica, my 90's SC had a similar issue, but that was the coolant being low. Check your MAF sensor to ensure is snapped in all the way double check the fuel rail connector to ensure it's also good. Can also be the battery.. What you can do, is hold the gas at about 1.5k and watch the RPMs, because it will die. It may take about 20 minutes just watching that idle needle. Anything below 500 you will need to give it gas until it holds a steady idle. I would also second a bad battery as I've been down this path a few times, just not the surge idle. Was the accident towards the front or rear?

 

I did check the o2 sensors and they were plugged in. Truck only has 10k miles on it.

I'm leaning towards the Immobilizer being the issue after the baterry drained. But I'm going to have to wait till tomorrow and check things out with the techstream. Hopefully I can get that running on the laptop without issue.

 

If it was the immobilizer, I don't think it will let you turn it over, but I may be wrong.

 

And you should get the security light flashing.

 

I believe the Tundra immobilizer of that year disconnects the fuel pump so it would turn over. However, there should be a lock indicator on the dash if it activated.

 

The lock indicator flashes but only when truck is turned off. It goes away when turned on/starting

 

Not sure if it still works, but for grins once you get your stuff together turn the alarm off.. Way back in 07 you would insert the key in the ignition and turn it to ACC and back off 3 times quickly (5 seconds) and it would disable the system. Again, I doubt that's what it is, but it's worth a try. I would assume something electrical is drawing from the system killing the battery.

 

Also more backstory, the hit was to the bed side of the vehicle.

I removed the supercharger and reinstalled the stock intake manifold immediately after. I drove it to and from one shop in June, about 15-20 minutes each way and it was fine. The rear drivers side door wouldn't close all the way and I left the baterry connected for the next few months. It hasn't run since

 

I wonder if a grounding point was damaged for the fuel pump. Your surge may be like also stated fuel pump cutting off as it grounds itself out.

 

Another thing to add to the list. I've read people having issues with a grounding point, and I did remove and reattach a few with the supercharger install. The fuel pump was also replaced during that install with a high flow pump. Said pump is still in truck.

I just keep coming back to it running after me uninstalling supercharger. But didn't run after truck sat and battery drained

 

Bruh, this is just compounding. lol

 

Also rent out the truck on Turo

/s

 

anyway a rodent got under the hood and did some damage to wiring? presume your SC required a flash tune and you flashed back to stock after de-install. Maybe try reflash back to stock again and see if the ECU takes the flash. Hope you get it figured out.

 

Not impossible. Wires all looked fine on top side. But I'll make a list of tools to bring with me tomorrow I guess lol

I did revert the tune back to stock. Between hptuners dongle and techstream hopefully I get some more info out of the truck tomorrow

Headlamp
Extendable mirrors
Techstream
Laptop
Hptunes

 

Good idea. Easy way to tell if the ECM is working properly.

 

Had this happen on my wife's Camry when I was disconnecting the battery to clean the terminals. Just had to relearn the idle.

Recreated the issue exactly when I went and cleaned the terminals on my Tundra as well.

 

Was going to say this too... at this point, OP should be double checking everything he removed to ensure nothing was left out. Anything broken in relation to the accident that was broken during the reinstall, should be left out and considered collateral damage from the wreck and replaced free99.

 

Can you post a pic of your engine bay? Maybe someone here will spot something from your supercharger removal that was overlooked...

 

Monitoring AFR would be ideal too considering the intake was removed and diff fuel pump. I usually see around 14 for reference.

 

Check the throttle body plate and make sure it is clean. My 2013 had high idle and surging on start. The plate was filthy and slightly gummed up. Once I cleaned it the issue was solved. You have low miles but the fuel system can gum up from sitting.

 

I searched a ton but couldn't find the procedure for a Push Start buttoned tundra. Only the older key to start version. Normally it relearns during a drive. But ya, can't find the procedure for throttle position sensor relearn on 2019-2021 button push start vehicles. Tried some old methods that didn't do anythinf