What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I've been spraying lithium grease on everything to try and isolate the sound. Could be that or t case fluid

 

Send a white zip tie down in there like a dip stick.

 

Should weep a little once you crack the fill plug (if full), but the finger test is always more fun.

 

I'm gonna redirect convo back to your thread, since (with videos and all) this would probably help someone else down the road if kept in one place, not buried in the WHYDTY1GT thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/transfer-case-squealing-anyone-else-have-this-problem.131100/

 

I checked on them.. there’s 0 in the country.

 

If it has fluid, remove the driveshaft from the t-case and spin the t-case flange, that'll help you isolate the noise.

 

Oh, good to know thanks

 

I had a similar sound when my driveshaft center bearing needed replacing…

 

driveshaft and center bearing is all new within past 1000 miles so hopefully thats not it

 

I haven't done anything to my truck today besides fill it up and spend $128 doing it. But to make me feel better, I just discovered the crotch vent directly under the steering wheel. This must be why these trucks are so highly regarded. I've never seen a vehicle with this, and I love that it works on the regular fan setting, not just the feet. Made my day!

 

That's the Turbo Goochcooler 9000. Only on a Best Gen. Well, that and my dad's old 77 chevy had one too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOYpCZzpbiI

 

Aka the cock cooler aka the koochie cooler

 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CvIh7UFtW1z/

 

Is the new center bearing OEM?

 

negative, whatever was on the replacement. debating returning the driveshaft to o reallys because its been a source of noise and vibration since install and rebuilding my rusted out one

 

Had this issue when they 1st used an aftermarket center bearing when I replaced mine. Lasted about a month. Changed out for OEM.

Prob wanna follow what Brent said about disconnecting your drive shaft from pumpkin to know where the sound is coming from.

 

damn just a month, that sucks ass. and thats the plan tomorrow, disconnect and spin more shit

 

We had one on the 1972 Chrysler Wagon. Just offset to the left a bit.

 

Speicher makes the OEM carrier bearing.

 

I thought it was Spicer

 

Spicier than what

 

Bummer news, dudes. The struts from Toytec aren't coming in until mid November. Thought it was just going to be a couple weeks out, but I knew better, so I'm not mad...just disappointed.

Worst part is, I need new tires soon. Was hoping to have the extra lift before tires/wheel, but maybe I can stuff the tires in there and wait it out.

 

I fit 275/60r20 on stock worn out suspension but i was extra gentle through tight turns like parking lots. They're kinda worn out, so maybe 32's instead of 33's. Those wheels are +18 offset, and rubbed the uca's a hair, but not when jacked up off the ground...not enough to rub the paint off.

 

Thanks @Mr.bee. My current set up basically leveled the truck (1.75" lift) and I do have aftermarket UCA's, so maybe stuffing the 285/70/17's I want won't be too bad after all.

I'll just take it nice and easy on those turns, too.

 

Is it pos or neg offset that pokes the wheels out further? The sequoia that those wheels/tires were on was lifted & had spacers.

 

Negative offset makes the wheels stick out further. I think I have 265/70's on right now... things that make you go "hmm".

 

With offset being variable based on wheel width, maybe better to say "lower backspace = more poke" or something. At 8" width w/0 offset you'd have the same poke I had on 17x9" w/-12 offset.

More-universal may be to say ~4.5" backspace is roughly flush with fender flares at 8.5-9" width, 4.75" BS is tucked just inside fender flares at 8.5-9" width, stock is 5.0" at 7.5" width.

I'm just talking aloud, not criticizing.

 

No no! That's perfect info, @shifty`

I know almost nothing when it comes to wheels and what they do...besides tires go on them so the truck can roll lol.

 

I always hafta go back and re-learn this crap every time I buy new wheels. It's aggravating as hell. The info makes sense once I get back into it, then 2, 3, 4 years later when I need another set of wheels for a project, I realize I lost it all again.

And y'all probably saw what happened to me this last time. I ended up buying two sets of wheels. And that is gonna cost me too... Already getting yelled at for eating up space in the house with those and my OEM wheels.