Ahmed hates metal oil filter cannisters

and spin-on filter modifications.
All agree?

EDIT - a plea to ignore the thread if you find it annoying. Better for you, better for participants. Some of us still find things to learn about it.
Also, the two things I have not seen discussed so far is a) he makes a lot of mention of the bypass spring tension and that the Dorman etc metal cannisters may not have the correct pressure. It is a defined spec that is being ignored. The spring may have tension that is too light (opens too early) or tight (does not open when needed) and b) if you pull the center tube off, in order to swap it out etc, it somehow weakens the parts and it should all be tossed.
Thank you-

https://youtu.be/G_vl2AYe7Yg?si=D3KwURGnz1z3NzMR

 

Been posted in many threads. Its common knowledge that the only reason people started buying the metal one and cannibalizing it to work was because they broke their plastic one but the only reason the plastic one breaks is because it torqued too much to begin with. When used properly the plastic one doesn't have any issues. Im at almost 50,000 miles with 8+ oil changes, no issues because no one has touched it but me.

 

I’ve switched both of mine - no issue. I’m not a fan of wrenching plastic.

 

What about the people that aren't able to change their own oil and have to get it done at Jiffy Lube or the Dealership ? This talking point that its somehow "cannibalizing" the original system has been debunked here multiple times, its the same exact housing except its metal with the same pressure relief valve when swapped over. Not sure why you continue to try to scare people when there's no evidence of any problems with the swap.

 

I have yet to read a post about someone having a shop break their oil filter housing, just people on here breaking thier own. If a shop breaks it, chances are they are going to also replace it. Also have seen posts on here with people installing the housing with the wrong tube, no tube, the tube not being connected ect. If you did yours and your happy with it, thats totally fine. I just try to spread factual first hand information about my own filter housing and the words of the Toyota master mechanic telling you not to do it either.

 

I can't speak for those who can't follow even basic instructions on something this simple, we try to direct them in the right direction here. As far as trusting one Tech for all the decisions you make, that's on you.

 

I think hes a wealth of knowledge. Personally I decided to keep my plastic housing before he made the video, Ive had my truck since 2019, he just put that video out recently. I actually had the metal can in my cart to order for awhile but after a couple oil changes seen no reason to. If it works why fix it.

 

I've said multiple times, do what makes you happy, its all good.

 

potayto, potahto

The aluminum one was originally a Lexus-spec'd part for the same engine. I swapped the one on my 2008 within a few thousand miles of buying it and ran it with the metal one for just shy of 300,000 miles without issue. I did the same on my 2021 once I was done with the "Toyota Care" oil changes and started doing my own, and now have several changes behind me with the same lack of issues.

You do you, and I'll do me.

 

Curious which model lexus?

 

I’m sure it fits a ton of models but the ES 350 uses the same part. Any Lexus with a 3.5.

Looks like ES, RX, NX, RC and some LS models.

 

This thread again?

If you don't care/don't want to spend the money - leave the plastic one.

If you want an aluminum one, buy an aluminum one. (Be sure to swap the metal tube for length and holds the proper bypass spring)

This really is not worth debating further.

 

From what I can find part number (15620-31060) fits Avalon, Camry, Highlander, RAV4, Sienna, Venza. Obviously none of those had a 3URFE V8. So if there was a lexus with the 3UR and a metal housing it had to be a different part number and would likely have the correct size tube, definitely would be great if you had that info. @RainMan_PNW


https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-engine-oil-filter-housing-1562031060

 

https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus__/CAP-ASSEMBLY---OIL-FILTER/62914429/1562031060.html

 

Look on a Lexus parts site. That helps.

 

Still not seeing where it was used on the same engine. Found part number 156500S010 for the LX570 which had the same engine but a search shows that also had a plastic cap. If there was another lexus with a 3UR I am unaware but intrigued because if there was actually a lexus 5.7 with a metal cap then it should be a direct swap with out any tube swapping. Im not actually targeting you, it was @RainMan_PNW that said it came from a lexus with the same engine.

 

5w30

 

Quite agree.

When Car Care Legume said 0W-20 is killing your engine, there was mass compliance and endless referencing. To question was to be a heretic.

Car Care Legume says use the plastic canister.


Do it now. Do not question. Do not debate. Do not interpret.




Comply.

 

I agree, lets not discuss this anymore...lets talk about how shitty the gas mileage is. Just pretending to give a shit. People its a 3 ton brick, what the hell do you expect, my window sticker clearly states 14 mpg, what the hell is so hard to understand?

 

*cough cough…. Mine is a 3.6 ton brick, thank you very much!

Part of the extra weight is no doubt from the aluminum mini van filter housing.

Some folks just need to be right, and can’t pass up a good opportunity to just shut up. Part of forum life…

 

I don't need to be right, I just am. I don't do it on purpose, I was just born that way. Some people are born with athleticism, some are good at math, etc. I was born with being right all the time. I wish people would just accept me for who I am.

 

Ok well now this has me worried; i literally just swapped mine out for the aluminum housing this weekend. Anyone know the part number of the oem plastic one?

 

Stop playing into the rhetoric, lot more things to worry about. Let it be.......................

 

Someone here will trade you for your aluminum one. And neither one of you will have any problems!

 

EDIT - a plea to ignore the thread if you find it annoying.
Better for you, better for participants.
Some of us still find things to learn about it.
Thank you

Also, the two things I have not seen discussed so far is a) he makes a lot of mention of the bypass spring tension and that the Dorman etc metal cannisters may not have the correct pressure. It is a defined spec that is being ignored. The spring may have tension that is too light (opens too early) or tight (does not open when needed) and b) if you pull the center tube off, in order to swap it out etc, it somehow weakens the parts and it should all be tossed.

Also, I pulled my 4R cannister off after the dealer had changed the oil 5K mi before and as usual they had torqued it to 120ft-lbs. Even accounting for stiction, there is no way they torqued it properly. Removing it cracked the plastic housing and I was in a bind so I ran to the parts store and installed a non-OEM metal one. Now I see Ahmed's video, was worried for a while but I'm over it.

 

So you're saying that you swapped yours out with the Dorman aftermarket and haven't had any issues? If so that makes me feel better......

 

This is the case.
However, I have no way of knowing if the spring is allowing bypass when it is needed.
I suppose if the filter is exceedingly clean next change, I might think it was always open.
Not sure what I will do. I might still swap it for an OEM. Ahmed has some very good info usually.

 

I will do the same - I have my original plastic one so may swap it if the filter is exceptionally clean.....

 

So all this got me thinking - I KNOW I put 8.5 quarts of 0w-20 in……checked the dipstick this morning and it looks like is is reading a little high. Truck has been sitting overnight on level surface. Should I drain a half a quart?