Undercoating ?

I use a self-made formula, learned about this from a person that worked for a state road grew. They used it on all their salt trucks and it keep them rust free for years. I had a 2002 Tundra that I purchased new, started using the formula once the truck was 4 years old, just sold it with 200,000+ miles of WI winter roads (22 year old truck), body & frame were rust free. Measurement 1/4 diesel fuel to 3/4 used motor oil, use a oil/air siphon hose and undercoat your cool truck. Don't stray any part that will get hot.

 

The local to me shop uses Berkebile PFC Undercoating. I had my last truck coated by them. The stuff does get everywhere under the truck. if you need to work on anything under the truck you will get it on you. But it held up well over 4 years. They suggest you go back every year for a touch up, but I always forgot until it was well into winter. I will probably be going the same route with this truck. I will call for a quote tomorrow when they are open.

 

I have been a Krown user for about 25 years. It works well but it is susceptible to wash off on the undercarriage. I plan on doing my 2021 for the first time this year (it was never winter driven by the first owner). Since it has never been done before I will likely bring it back in the spring for a touch up on the undercarriage. It might be overkill, but I find you need to get a good base before it really protects and sticks well on the undercarriage. Plus the area I live in is very hard on vehicles. After a few years you won't need nearly as much.

Dropping the spare is a good idea as well as the skid plate if you have one.

The one thing negative I will say about Krown is the quality of the work is very dealer dependant. Some do a poor job. So make sure your dealer has a good rep and check their work to make sure thy got the vulnerable spots. I switched dealers because my old one was doing terrible quality work.

 

If I can add to this (you’re bang on about dealer dependent). There’s 2 types of rustcheck or krown people.

1. Auto body/transmission shop/garage that does rustproofing “on the side”

2. Krown only guy.

try and pick #2. My experience is they are more in tune with what they do (I.e they know what cars, and models/years have problem areas and will give attention accordingly).

 

Blaster surface shield is very good stuff. No drifting whatsoever to paint etc.

 

They are very good too. I have used it for touch-ups. The issue is that more often than not Canadian Tire is the only place that sprays it and the quality of the work is suspect. I have family members who have used Corrosion Free from dedicated dealers and it has been good. Despite the military test, it doesn't seem to work any better than real world than the competitors. IMO, Krown, Corrosion Free, Fluid Film, and the like all work well when applied properly on an annual basis.

 

Noxudol 700 cavity wax inside channels and hard to reach areas, 1600 everywhere else. Did it while truck was brand new and haven't seen winter yet, reapplied 4 years later. I offroad regularly and scrape everything on the frame from time to time. Also pressure washing the frame takes a bit of protection, I started to see bare frame recently, so decided to reapply. Otherwise it barely needs any maintaining.

Did that combo on wife's brand new Sequoia while it was new and rust-free.

Noxudol is Swedish stuff, I trust them more, they know how to protect metal.

 

I think this could work too with one exception.... Dont part in a spot where you care about the ground under you.
The drips will last for awhile.

We can start a new topic... Best cleaners to remove oil out of concrete.

 

Oil Eater, brush and power washer. Oil Eater only if concrete is sealed.