Tundra not running, now won't start

A couple weeks ago, my 2000 Tundra (Limited with the 4.7 v8) battery went bad. After I replaced the battery, the truck would start, then immediately die. I could get the truck to run if I gave it some gas when it started, but then as soon as I let off the gas it would die again.

The truck was not showing any codes. I replaced the MAF sensor and the fuel filter during trouble shooting. Then I ordered a new fuel pump and replaced it yesterday. Now the truck won't start at all, just turns and turns, and it is now showing codes p0100 and p0110 (MAF Sensor Circuit and Air Intake Tempurature Circuit).

A buddy of mine is now recommending I replace the crankshaft position sensor.

Please help. Thanks in advance.

 

How do your battery cables look? Someone went through this recently and that was the cause. Post some pictures.

Also, what brand MAF sensor did you go with?

 

Put the stock maf back on and clean your throttle body.

 

Cable aren't in any particularly rough shape. Seem fine to me.

I don't remember the brand of the MAF sensor, but probably Import Direct. I got it from O'Reilly.

I'm also noticing now that every time I try to crank it, the 15A PWR OUTLET 2 fuse blows.

 

I don't have the stock MAF sensor anymore but I sprayed a can of intake cleaner into the throttle body and that does seem to be helping. It started and tried to run for a second before dieing. So I'm wondering if it isn't a fuel delivery issue still since it will start with the flammable intake cleaner, but then if I give it any throttle it dies again..

 

According to what condition a persons air/fuel parts are in, replacing a battery or unhooking a battery, the system will have initial issues because when a battery is unplugged, some settings will be reset in the ecu....in particular fuel trim.
The system has to relearn fuel trims, shift points....etc. Try keeping it running and if successful give it about 50 miles to relearn.

If you have not performed good maintenance....air filter, good throttle body cleaning, plugs, vacuum lines, now would be a good time to consider that.

I personally do not suggest changing the crank sensor but I do suggest getting a proper MAF sensor first chance you get....not flebay nor am zon, only OEM.

As for you Pwr Outlet fuse, it is not part of your underhood issues but curious if you have anything plugged into your outlets ?

 

Agreed on the MAF. Hitachi is the way to go on that. I wouldn't trust one from O Reilly.

 

I've tried to be good about maintenance since I've had the truck. I got it from my brother who had it from 2012-2022, and I would confidently say he did not perform optimal maintenance during that period... I am about to try to clean the injectors etc.. to see if that will help to keep it running after it fires up.

The only things plugged into any of the accessory outlets were phone chargers and I never had any issues with that until now.

 

I can never make heads or tails of what powers what, but (1) throwing codes for MAF and IAT sensor circuits and (2) blowing the 15a fuse for PWR OUTLET 2 consistently are unusually unique symptoms.

Did you check all the fuses?

We've had plenty of folks on here have their trucks die in similar fashion (right after start) after disco of the battery after cleaning the throttle body. Bubba gave the rundown on why.

 

Hitachi is the provider for Toyota?

 

Yep. PHM figured it out. I bought one too.


https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-82#post-1749691

 

The fuel pump was the issue. I had a mechanic from down the street helping me work on the truck, and I caught covid and since this truck is my primary vehicle, I went ahead and have him put the new pump in for me, but he didn't plug the thing in after he installed it... so I got it plugged in and now it's running fine.

I will look into getting a quality MAF sensor back in the truck, and I'm not too worried about my cigarret lighter having a short or whatever.

Thank you all for the help and suggestions. At the end of the day, problem solved, and I work on my truck on my own moving forward lol

 

For future reference hang on to the parts you pull off until you know they are bad. The OEM MAF is better than what you put on it and now it's gone.

 

Hopefully the mechanic used a Denso pump too, and not something from the parts store. That’s a bitch of a part to get to, and OEM will actually last just as long as what was in there. If I had a dollar for every time I saw new parts store fuel pump fail after a year, I’d never pay for lunch again.