1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Some would agree....

 

When I talked to the guy there, before I could throw out numbers, his guy gave him the numbers he'd be aiming for, and they were so close to what @assassin10000 recommends that I figured it was safe to let them run with their own. That was actually the thing that sold me on this specific shop.

I assume the concern with the OL is exactly what I pointed out prior on this forum, and when I dropped off the truck: The icon AAL kit has a riveted clamp on the side facing the cab of the truck. That rivet, with any load in the rear, will come in contact with the OL prematurely, and you don't want a very-hard, pointed thing being mashed down into steel with lots of weight over it. You really have two options: I suppose I could drill a relief hole in the OL where the rivet would come in contact, or cut the OL 1/4" shy of where the spring clamp would hit it. They wanted to pull the OL and swap out with a 1.5" block so no adjustment was required on the coilover and I could eek out another 1/5" or so of rake.

I was told, "It's just not right, and my guys are going to cut it loose after alignment and wheels/tires, and we'll pull the 'overland tuning' item ($269) off the quote/SOW". Which is fine. I hadn't had a chance to get the LSPV bracket in, and also hadn't gotten time to deal with the OL situation either, I'm sure the guys in the shop think I'm a hack but ... I guess idgaf? I dunno. It'll get dealt with.

Thing is, I kinda want the OL in there. I still do haul shit with my truck, it's 50% of why I've got the damn thing. So I guess I'll just start looking at spring packs.

 

Without that OL spring you'll lose any lift you gained. If you want any forward rake you were smart to leave it in.

 

ever ridden a chopper like that? Garbage. Even in a straight line.

but my phones level says the minibike has 30* of rake, but the forks are parrallel to the neck.

 

Overland tuning

 

Like custom bikes today, they’re only meant to ride and show off around town.

It shouldn’t be treated as a cruising bike.

 

Yup. On a motorcycle, more rake equals lazier turn in. Sport bikes have very little rake to make them turn sharp. Many of the stretched out choppers are also rigids, so yeah. They don't turn worth a shit and don't ride worth a shit.

 

Yup, hope you don't need to turn. Like, unless you like 20-point turns.

I didn't take a caliper to it, but it looks like I'd lose about 1/2" - 3/4" which would be about 35-45% of my rear lift, which would leave me with reverse rake.

It's a gimmicky term. This is more of a white-glove shop catering to people who can't wrench. And their guys know their stuff, for sure. But effectively it's just "we're gonna dial adjust the way our guys would do on their own, lube everything, confirm torque on every bolt, dial-in everything for the right stance, verify alignment, and generally look everything over". I think the price is fair for what it is: Unbiased eyes and hands going over your stuff to adjust and call out whatever they see. For me, the glaring issue was entirely revolving around the rear suspension and brakes, and my unwillingness to address it left them in a situation where they didn't want liability, thus didn't want to put their name on that specific work. I get it, and not faulting them for it.

I also know I'm not gonna pay someone $1k+ to pull my overload and install a 1.5" block. If I had any intention of doing that, I'd just drop $750 on a nice leaf pack and spend the 2 hours installing it myself.

 

FWIW, for Hulk's long-travel suspension, this is true. Also helps tires clear the body mount, backing up at full lock. Drives great too.

 

I'm always skeptical of this. I wonder if employees are actually looking up torque specs on every bolt. Is there a master database for all vehicles? The only shop I've seen use a torque wrench is Discount Tire. Pretty sure the rest just go by feel or ugga dugga.

 

Costco too.

 

I left the FSM torque specs highlighting every bolt I touched in the passenger seat for them with the lug nuts, TPMS sensors, AAL and CO instructions, etc. Highlighted the torque specs in the AAL and CO instructions too so they didn't need to scan the whole damn sheet to find stuff.

I try to set everyone up for success, even when I'm paying them to do the work. I've already checked my work twice, with two separate torque wrenches. I'm satisfied with my work.

 

I don't know what you said, but I'm happy you're happy.

 

I think the analogy here would be you finding some unique part to the SHO in some swap meet that only SHO owners know about. Either that or the nuisances of dishwasher technology to clean those parts.

 

@bmf4069
Have you looked at the newer GTOs? That’s what my cousin got after the SHO (pretty sure he still has the SHO too…). I only drove the GTO once, but it was pretty sweet, pretty sure he said he was around 400whp with light mods.
This is just the first one that popped up in TX:
https://austin.craigslist.org/ctd/d/austin-2004-pontiac-gto-speed-manual/7665306015.html

 

Here's some of what I've been doing lately:

 

I was wondering if you were going to post about this, was wondering what had a happened and how they got you out. Glad you're okay man, those edges are no joke...

I'll keep an eye out on the junkyards near me for those parts for you

Also why didn't you call me? You know I'm in the area and could've fast tracked some help to you

 

Yeah, but none have popped up in my searches. Granted, I mainly just use autotempest. Everything I find on Meta and murderlist is ragged out junk most of the time. I would love to find a G8 GT or an SS.

 

Nobody wants help from a pre-tacoma.

 

Looks like old clay sewer pipe.

 

They need to get some cable trays in that building. That’s some spaghetti there.

 

Pre-Tacoma is way better than a Chevy Colorado

 

The guy in the Colorado smells better than you

 

Whole lotta smurfin' going on in those pics!

 

@shifty` I'll be following your leaf pack search. Like we derailed talking about on the 1GT photo thread - I'm trying to figure that out too.

The ATS HD leaf pack seems like a good deal, but a little worried it'll be firm for a DC truck with just a toolbox and I may even take that off.

What is the issue with blocks under a standard leaf pack? Seems like if you want to get 1" or 1.5" of lift without sacrificing ride and you don't haul/off road heavily, it shouldn't be a problem??? But maybe I'm wrong there.

 

Leaf packs: ATS has a special, right now, 12% off on their "HD" springs, the 90-221HD @ $205/ea side, which has given members with DC and AC a lift of 1.5"-2" on average. Link: https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com...vy-duty-rear-leaf-spring-both-sides-90-221hd/

Comes with poly bushings, it seems. This is by far the best price I could find. If you search this subforum for the phrase "90-221hd" you'll find several people giving feedback, all positive, I haven't seen any negative yet. Had I known the price in advance, I would've just ordered those instead. Easier to install than AAL honestly. The only thing easier would be blocks, and I'm sorry, I'm just not a fan of blocks.

 

They are sweet. A buddy of mine had one in college. They're just so ugly

 

axle wrap. The lift blocks change the leverage against the spring causing the axle to move forward or backward. Especially when pulling a trailer.

 

Is the ATS the Archive Garage leaf pack?
AG was running a sale recently and they have two leaf packs for our trucks.

 

I linked the site, I forget what the ATS acronym stands for but it's not Archive, maybe Archive uses their packs? Dunno, but the last Archive pack (pair) I looked at was north of $1100. Possibly north of $1400, I forget. Unless I'm confusing them with Alcan? Too many gd "A" names in leaf springs.