General Supercharger Thread

Same here, at the advice of a buddy who runs a tuning/race shop back east, I went with the Ballenger Motorsports unit. Supposed to have a good warmup circuit and be "easy" on sensors, although not cheap.

 

Congrats!

The OTT SoCal rep works with Bajarex now that I connected them. They can get your tune sorted and install that blower if you want.

 

Thanks. I found it on the FS post for the stage 3 supercharger a few weeks ago. the guy mentioned that he had it and I dm'd him.

Thanks! Yup, having the new one would be cool but I've always wanted this one. and I don't think I'll look to push run anything more boost than what the stock blower does so it works out. Quite a bit cheaper than getting a new Magnuson unit too.

I figured monitoring both banks would be better. I've run HKS on other projects and it's a reputable Japanese company. It's what I am used to dealing with.

I will definitely get a tune. I'm just not sure what to look for since I've always done a stand alone ECU for other projects.

I'll look into it. Thanks for the suggestion

Is it Quoc Pham? I made a post on the Boosted Tundra's FB group and he replied and he is in Orange Country just like Bajarex. But thank you for the recommendation. I will reach out to them.

 

Yep that's correct tell him Rey/Henry sent you

 

Has anyone checked if the URD fuel pressure rail tap will fit? I'm guessing the bolt spacing is correct as Denso is pretty standard, but unsure on extra flex on the return line. If noone has, I'll get one coming to test fit with my Harrop.


https://urdusa.com/urd-fuel-rail-tap/

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/232025197690



If you need one that has a 6an, I used this one.

 

Good find, but I'm just looking for a port to put a small gage inline with the Harrop/Denso FPR.

 

It fits and works fine, no problem with return line length without a supercharger. Machining had a few rough spots that I cleaned up. Easier to install if you put the tap and regulator in the freezer for awhile, install tap into fuel rail and let warm up, then install the regulator. Sending unit for remote gauge fits, mounting a gauge directly to the tap will need a fitting/extended to clear the regulator.

 

Awesome! I'll get one ordered tomorrow.

 

@Vizsla the Denso looks more robust than the AN style I used. Plus with the SC you'll have a bit more room.

 

It was a perfect 55 degrees this morning in Maryland, the boost gauge hit 11.7

 

Boost season!

 

man i need more boost. I only saw 7.5 this morning

 

No worries, I don't have headers yet, I'm sure once they are install my numbers will drop.

 

What pulley you running?

 

Right now the 2.3, going to a 2.2, and installing long tube headers and a rear differential next week.

 

Hell yeah! If you’re going with a built motor later anyway, might as well see what abuse the stock one can take lol.

 

Drove to L.A. this morning, saw 10.

 

I ran at 11.5psi for over a year with no issues. Running a 2.345 SC pulley and the ASP overdrive pulley with JBA headers and full dual 3 inch exhaust with 2 200 cell cats in 2015. If you keep the stock cats you may not lose much if any psi. I'm at 9.62psi now with same setup but with only one 200 cell cat. My AFR's were usually 10.5 to 11.4 with the BD tune back in 2015. Now have @snivilous HP tuned and runs great!

 

OK. Who's running a Harrop on a truck with a factory transmission cooler? I'm working to wedge it all in now, but even with the cooler deflector removed, I'm not quite sure if I can find enough room for it all. Maybe a photo of the prybar you used?

Going on my '07, not sure if 2.5's with trans coolers were different.

 

They are different, since the trans cooler is a section of the AC condenser on the newer ones. Maybe @nobodyintexas has some insight since he put a setrab on his I believe.

 

yup

I’d snap pix if I had the truck , but it’s installed just like the directions

 

Looking at your post history, looks like you're not running the factory trans cooler anymore? Also while digging into other manuals, I appear to have a intercooler radiator bracket for a LX570 in my kit and the actual intercooler pump bracket is MIA. Already left a message w/ Harrop, but going into the weekend, I'll hear something Tuesday I guess. Luckily I wasn't planning to install the whole thing this weekend, just some ancillary parts (charge cooler radiator and fuel pump)

Now to put it back together enough to tow our trailer tomorrow. Here's my temp fix, should be relatively easy to move the pump orientation 90 and run it with the motor pointing backward. With trim a ton of the cooler housing/deflector or just leave it as is.

Mostly frustrated that this was a "bolt on kit" with this overlooked.

 

I added the oem cooler to my Sequoia, I had to put the intercooler between the radiator support & bumper core.

 

More boost! Arrived sooner than expected.

 

Nice! I think that’s gonna be a sweet spot for boost. Should be like a 2.2 on a 1900. This is where I’d love a 77.5mm on the Harrop to fill that void. An 80 to 75 is a big jump. Any one else with a Harrop feel the same way? A 77.5mm would be about 5300cc/rev on a Harrop. The 80mm is about 5133cc/rev. The 3.375 on a Whipple is 5241cc/rev which is close to a 2.2” on a 1900, at at 5,268cc/min. Good for a consistent 10-11 psi at sea level based on Snivs chart he made for his pulleys.

 

That’s a big jump. I feel like @snivilous can whip something up. I’m guessing 9.5 on my setup with the big intake and freed up exhaust. We shall see

 

Get Sniv to make a 77.5 for us Harrop guys

 

<raising my hand for the 77.5 harrop>

 

I’ll be down for a 77.5