1st gen:4.7 Long tube headers interest thread

Got pics coming? Option for stepped piping? A coating would be nice. High-heat paint didnt work on my cheap jeep header.

Merge collector?

 

think OP said sometime around nov/dec is when we’d see some progress on this

 

Interested!
Been scouring the internet looking for some long tubes for my 2004, glad to have come across this thread

 

I'm definitely interested. Any updates?

 

Yes will be using merge collectors. All the metal is in , flaged need a little massaging. Prob looking at xmas time realistically. My friends shop is swamped with R8 builds. Which obvy take presedence over my old tundra which I had to twist his arm to do these lol. He said he has ceramic coating and some nasa shit he uses on his rs3's that would be option. I have haf zero time to pester him recently. Soon as life allows I will update everone. Just based on tone of our engine. The intake side seems to be real restriction. I might tried to source some old heads just to play with. See how the valve bowls and factory ports look. This is way down the pole as priority though. Headers first. Does anybody remember how much the Doug Thorley's were new $ wise. The drivers side is tight.

 

I don’t know shit about metalworking or welding, but I seen even enough shitty welds that I would bet that’s clean as fukkkkk

 

Your right. They need to be carefully made. Its tight getting collector in there with good spacing from steering components. Good chance they will be pricy. I would prob only recomend to people who plan on keeping their tundy long term. Otherwise i would say just get jba shorties. I would love to know how much power is to be gained with 05/06 plastic intake manifold. The better heat dissipation alone has to help.

 

Yup, his guys can weld for sure. And let me tell you, the way they lay dimes welding aluminum and titanium....these wont be hard. Just time. Thats why im curious what old long tubes went for new. Im going with:

321 SS Or maybe 18-8

I can ask if they will do a batch in 304 to save a few $$ . 304 or 321 SS you cant go wrong.

 

I bought Doug Thorleys about 3 years ago for my non-vvti Tundra for $581 but that was a pretty stellar deal at the time.

 

Count me interested. Also in Montana like another interested mentioned.

 

Just a heads up ...wont be able to offer pricing that low. Assuming he sold these in decent volume.

 

Was there a ballpark price range that was given that I missed or not yet? First round sale discount?

Also is your guy planning on doing more of these depending on the volume of buyers or just a one time thing?

 

Prob just a low volume. I will have to edit origial post to see if I can get a count of amount of people who are seriously interested. Ill work on getting pricing ball park. 05-07 trucks will prob be a hair more expensive.

 

Do you think doing some sort of pre-order would help determine the actual amount if buyers? Once the first prigress pics get posted I'd be willing to put down a small amount of cash to show that I'm serious about it

 

Consider me interested from the start for a 01 non-vvti model…. but tbh I won’t be able to commit further than that until we get a solid price point going.

 

I wouldn’t care about pricing since no one makes them anymore, fitment is the key here, shits tight where it needs to be routed

 

I will have a better idea $$ for you guys in a bit. Its not going to be in three $$$ figures though.

 

@BluegrapeVr6 curious if you had any kind of update on these, I am interested.

 

Not awful lot. I have twelve flanges CNC and two collectors sitting at shop. Show season is ending soon so hoping to have knocked out around x- mas time. Still need to update post to see if I can get headcount so next batch of materials -lower cost.

 

@BluegrapeVr6 any update on the fab progress?

 

Unfortunately, they will not fit. I’ve tried.

 

Luckily, there’s still small American companies making long tubes.

 

There’s ways to make it work.

 

That’s the general ‘theory’ that I’ve read about everywhere too. But in reality, it’s the primary tube length that matters more than anything else. For example:

BAmufflers long tube headers makes way more low end torque than the Stans Tri Y did.

but on the other hand, S&S tri y headers made more low end Torque than BAnufflers 4into1

the S&S headers had longer primaries and the Tri Y was just the collector. There’s wasn’t really and ‘secondary’ tube to speak of. It was really a 2into1 merge into another 2into1 merge.

 

Can’t confirm or deny this allegation

 

Have you taken them off to see the black trail getting past the gasket? If you can pin point exactly where the leak is I could help with a solution. Would just need to see pics of the header off the truck and at the flange where the leak is.

 

There’s a better way to do this now. If you really don’t want a HewittTech bypass then you could weld a small tube with flange to the rear most primary tube. By connecting this one tube to the air injection the system would sense the pulses of the engine running and it wouldn’t throw a check engine light.

all that said, it is waaay more beneficial to shut off the system with the HewittTech bypass. The system has a 100% failure rate. Eventually, yours will fail. If it fails with the valve open or the pump fails you have to pay big money to repair it or limp mode occurs. At that point, you have to pay for the repair, before you shut down the system.

even if you don’t have headers, shut off that failure of a system asap. Don’t take chances.

 

The Toyota gaskets don’t fit the raised port on the JBA flange. Lay them on top of the JBA and you’ll see this like a sore thumb. You have to use JBA gaskets or Fel pro gaskets. They’re better than mls for that header even if the Toyota gasket worked. A headers is never as ‘perfect’ as a OEm manifold.

 

I’ve confirmed these parts will not work on a tundra.