1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

These 15w0s make it hard to breathe on some songs. I've already lost an AC knob, rattled my mirror off, and my rear slider and rear window won't stay shut. It's so retarded. I love it!

I think I need new amps though. My daughter spilled something on the 300/4 so the mids/highs go out every once in a while. The 1000/1 makes the subs make weird noises when nothing is playing and the radio is on.

 

I'm on my Android phone. Using IG app

 

Bummer on the 300/4

You may want to pop the cover/heatsink off, and douse really well with a good contact cleaner, then hit it with an air compressor to blow out anything under the components. We have a pretty awesome PCB + contact cleaner at work with an integrated brush in the head, we either buy it from DigiKey or Mouser or the other one 'I'm not thinking of.

And the 1000/1, what kinda noise?

 

The 300 is getting better. I'm gonna run with it and see what happens.

The 1000 makes almost what I'd call "road noise". The subs kinda rumble real low with occasional big pops. It doesn't do it constantly, and it'll pop when you hit bumps. I jacked with the RCAs a little and that makes em go crazy. Sucks cause when you're messing with the amps, the subs are inches from your head.

 

I think I have a spare 300/4. Got refurbed from JL many years ago and unused since.

 

Dammit Dave! You know I'm an amp hoarder! Why are you tempting me?

 

See if twisting the RCA on their receptacle generates noise. If it does, I'd be double-checking the ground for that amp, both where the ground enters the amp to check for frays and strays (may as well check power also) and double-double check where it terminates to chassis.

 

Good quality RCAs? I find some of the nice, but lower end ones don't make the best contact with the amp RCA inputs.

 

That's another thing too, you can always swap RCA at the back of the HU and between the 300 and 1000, see if the sound transfers. If it does, you know it's in the amp. Or run a new, temporary pair of RCA of known-quality.

 

@Mr.bee. No excuses

 

Yeah, I’m thinking about it but I probably won’t. The car doesn’t have an alternator, and the 12v battery charges from a DC-DC converter that’s contained in the battery pack unit, so I’d have to do custom stuff to get the 12v battery to charge. Plus it could still be functional in the future and only weighs 70lbs.

Yeah, as cool as they are, it isn’t really worth it if it needs major stuff like that, and if you’re commute is anything but constant speed 45-85mph. The only reason it’ll work well for me in college is 98% of the driving I’ll be doing is on the highway.

 

They're the ones that came in the kit shifty recommended:



I'll check some things out when it's not hot(October) outside. Or under my shade tree one Friday morning.

 

what will get the glue from a wind guard/bud deflector off the paint above the window?

 

I recommended the Kicker package. That looks like the Kicker kit, but I don't see any of the expected logos. Did Sonix Electronix fulfill on it? If so, I trust it. If not ...

 

Either get a "detailing eraser" (3M makes the best I've found) or Turtle Wax's label and adhesive remover has always worked well for me when combined with plastic flat razors. You can buy the blue/orange plastic flat razor kits on scAmazon.

 

Yeah, I bought it straight from them. The kicker one was on Crutchfield for almost $200.

 

thank you.... ive spent the past 2 days trying different things w a plastic knife and no luck.

 

Well, if I can do this with the Turtle Wax sticker and adhesive remover and plastic razor kit, I think you can get your glue off - BUT I will warn you - two things, first being the Turtle Wax product I'm referencing, which is at any big box automotive store, explicitly says to avoid black rubber/plastics with the product, and second being, some have complained about it temporarily softening up clearcoats so if you have a metallic truck, I'd test in an inconspicuous place first, using a method similar to what I just linked.

This is the eraser wheel, which most local big box auto stores should have too. I trust the 3M product, you have a name who will stand behind you if it were to do damage. I don't trust the generic ones you find on scAmazon, only because, who the hell is going to cough up compensation if it did any damage? Anyway, don't believe it works? Look up videos on YouTube. It's a good tool to have in the toolbox, but steep buy-in price. This video may help explain why...

NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO, WAX THE PAINT AFTERWARD!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Y_2DYBwoTU​

 

We got around to warshin our 300$ fridge.







I wish I'd taken some before and afters of the inside. Sum bitch is brand new now.

 

Make sure you clean out the icemaker real good.

Real good, minus the dings in the door, but it's how the inside works that matters. You probably got it for 1/3rd the new price.

 

We cleaned all the inside removable bits with dawn and fabulouso.

I cleaned all the non removable bits with dawn and bleach and elbow grease.

We were real thorough this time and will clean it again when we get to our place.

 

Here's the critter
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Whirlpool-...gerprint-Resistant-Stainless-Steel/1000422565

 

gonna get the 3m eraser wheel! would rather go w someone who has established a name for themselves.

 

How expensive and difficult to replace the battery? Chris fix has a couple of videos on replacing Toyota Prius batteries and it's not difficult. Not sure how this compares though.

 

Seller says $300 at a JY to replace, but it may just need maintenance like @FiatRunner mentioned. And I think you may be hard pressed to find an '02 Insight at a JY anywhere near me.

 

Yall should have seen all the spilt sweet tea and whatnot inside the bottom of this bitch.

 

Put some LED's in it.

 

Throw some D's on that b*tch
https://youtu.be/vpWoenI7wRs

 

It already HAS LEDS in it. LOL


There's two little cool white LEDs in the small circles and a long horizontal one in the big circle

 

Throw some cheese in that b*tch