4.7L oil pressure issue

What would stop oil pressure in using a mechanical gauge? I attached a gauge in place of the OE sensor at the oil filter housing.

 

Not sure, but that might throw a code. And you have to let the rest of the air out of that little oil line. Dont nick that hose on anything. Had a mechanical oil gauge spray the inside of my nova with hot oil in high school.

 

Are you looking at the gauge face or just the flow of oil in the line?

 

I’m not impressed with the clear tubing, but it should flow to the gauge. Nothing seems to be helping get a pressure reading.
Also I took many precautions to keep oil line rupture from happening.

 

Not if there is air in the line which BTW, shouldn't matter. Pressure is pressure whether it's air or oil. What does the gauge read?

 

Pneumatic and hydraulic pressure are not the same. Having air in the lines will affect the pressure expressed by the gauge. It’s why we bleed the air out of brake lines. Air is compressible, fluid not so much. Not sure why OP is trying to use a mechanical gauge, but you gotta get the air out of the line if you wanna measure pressure that way.

 

Gauge didn't show any pressure, nor did the new oil pressure tester before this.
Each time removing something, there is oil coming out when removed.
The clear tubing is proof the oil is not flowing to cause pressure.

I removed the oil filter last night and will be changing brand names of filter to see if anything helps.
Also, the filter housing has three holes, the other two are plugged.

Anyone have experience with the plugged holes being alternate areas for pressure?

 

If you took the gauge off of the clear tuning and oil didn’t flow out of the tubing, that would be better “proof”. But I’m not positive you can just hook anything up to the factory hole and get a reliable pressure measurement. Do you genuinely think you have no oil pressure? Or are you convinced only that the factory gauge isn’t working? Give us your trucks story and we could better help you here. I highly doubt any of us are running a mechanical oil pressure gauge, or that any one on here has ever needed to.

 

After no oil pressure to the dash with an OE style unit, I was just checking to see if a mechanical gauge would work.
ANY OE gauge can be replaced with a mechanical gauge.

After showing a video of this to my shops service manager this morning, he's suggesting a few shots of air in the housing hole or just removing the housing and checking for any buildup that can be causing blockage.

 

My skidplate is on, you're gonna have to show us the 3 ports. Take the hose off the gauge, once the hose is full, reinstall. Do it with a rag & you might just be able to bleed it without making a mess. Everything up to temp & rpm when checking? Still thing the ecu is going to wanna see an oil pressure signal.

 

This ^^

If this were me, I'd be using a T, female-male. Thread the male end into the block, thread the gauge into the T, then use the bib on the T to attach the tube for your gauge.

But ideally, tapping and threading a separate hole in an appropriate place is obviously the less-janky way.

 

Here is an example I found on the internet.

 

The 2 side x side plugs? Was there anything inside those? Like a spring for a pressure regulator or something?

 

I'll be pulling my housing off tonight. I need to know if there's kit for housing.

 

What do you mean, "kit"?

 

On my OE parts website, this diagram calls the part between the filter and the housing, an oil cooler.
Just an FYI,

Part #1571050030
Engine Oil Cooler
Brand: Toyota
List Price: $1,405.11

 

Shifty; I wonder if in the housing there are springs and a diaphragm?

 

The oil filter adapter double o-ring is like $1.15 at rockauto.

 

No clue. But @Tundra2 had to replace his, and got one from a junkyard. He took several pics of his in the 'crackhead resurrection' thread.

 

I won't deal with Rock Auto personally, but Toyota is 1.72 list, part #1569250020

 

I'll be pulling the oil filter housing for inspection tonight. I found the seal at o'reilly auto parts under $4.

Here is a youtube video on the process

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeWAQzcqhPo

 

Note that some members have complained when trying to replace that figure-8 gasket. There's a tricky bolt on some model/styles that is a bitch to contend with, some have found you either need to loosen or unbolt the A/C compressor. There are threads around here on it with advice.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/when-you-can’t-find-that-pesky-oil-leak.87265/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/oil-cooler-leaking.114924/#post-2957385

 

I'm hoping by this video, that my 2wd is easier than most. Thanks!

 

Not sure what thread you are working with there. But on the 5.7 it's a British pipe thread for the sending unit and I got a "T" from Yotashop.com.

 

Exactly what I'm talking about. I'd prefer it was brass, but I'm guessing that'd be more $$

 

The ECU does not receive a signal regarding oil pressure.
Whether one has an oil pressure switch(w/o tach) or oil pressure sender(w/ tach), there's only one conductor and it goes to the combination meter only for the oil gauge(w/ tach) or oil light(w/o tach).

 

Probably zinc or plated brass. Stainless would be pricier.

 

I ended up using compressed air and blowing into oil port. I reinstalled the Beck Arnley oil pressure sensor and I now have some gauge reading but only when accelerating. I'm still going to buy a used filter housing adapter and take it apart to see what's inside.

 

The factory oil gauge shows very little pressure outside of startup or acceleration. Common complaint here.