Is my Tundra suitable for towing a camper?

Yep whole family not including me (because I was in the truck when I weighed it is 340lbs 3yr -5yr -7yr and my wife, I will ad to that number to allow more room as the kids grow.

 

I don't know that this is totally true. There are some allowances put in the SAE tow rating to account for some things.

Here is a generic summary that I have found on several sites. Yes, it assumes a "mostly unloaded" truck but it does allow for 300 pounds of passengers as well as up to 70 pounds for the hitch.

New calculations for trailer weight ratings: In addition to the performance standards, SAE J2807 also uses a specific set of assumptions to calculate maximum trailer weight ratings:

• For light-duty full-size pickups (GVWR < 8,500 lbs.), SAE J2807 assumes that the tow vehicle includes any options with higher than 33 percent penetration;
• It assumes there is both a driver and passenger in the vehicle, each weighing 150 pounds;
• It assumes that tow vehicles also include up to 70 pounds of aftermarket hitch equipment (where applicable); and
• For conventional trailer towing, SAE J2807 assumes that 10 percent of the trailer weight is on the tongue.

Here is a good summary of most of the requirement:

https://explorerrvclub.com/blog/sae-tow-ratings-system/

My experience tells me that these trucks are capable of towing a lot. The biggest thing that you will need to get over is the fact that your truck will look like it is towing a lot. It will squat. I have made two big towing mistakes over the years with my Tundras.

1. I put too much distribution in my hitch. I was looking to minimize squat and I did. The truck was level or about 2" of deflection in the rear. This was when I went out west so we were loaded to the max. We were about 15,500 combined and had about 900 pounds on the tongue. My axle ratings were great and I successfully moved a lot of the weight to my front axle. I had about 1" of deflection in the front after hooking up the trailer. I had one bar fail on the way out, replaced the hitch with a new one and ended up adjusting it twice on the trip. As it turned out I had too much WD dialed in and permanently deflected the hitch on the truck. The bumper started to contact the box. Toyota replaced my hitch but recommended that I do something different with my distribution.

2. After this, I went to airbags to reduce squat. This works great but the truck rides the crap when empty (I had the ride rite bags). I know that there are things that can be done to help most of my concerns here but that is not the point. In an effort to improve the ride empty I went to Sumo Springs. These are an excellent passive solution. However my rear axle weights were always too high. The truck would squat about 1.5" with no deflection of the front suspension (same height before hooking up the trailer as after). The rear axle was overloaded. Here are the numbers:

Steer Axle: 3480
Drive Axle: 4320 (fiberglass cap of ~200 was on this truck and not on the PRO below)
Trailer Axles: 6460

Then I got my PRO. I set this one up with the front axle in mind. The goal was no deflection before vs. after. This gives me about 2" of deflection in the rear suspension and great looking axle weights. Yup, it looks loaded but it rides great and tows great while being within the numbers. I successfully moved weight from the rear to the front AND back to the trailer by removing the Sumo Springs. Here they are:

Unloaded Truck Weight (full tank and me inside): 6100
Trailer published weight: 5500 with 700 tongue weight.

Steer Axle: 3620
Drive Axle: 3780 (Add ~200 for a fiberglass cap and I am knocking on my rear axle rating)
Trailer Axles: 6540

That is 7840 in trailer, people and camping gear. I am ~ 2,000 below the Gross Combined. I am under both axle weights. This was a lighter trip and I typically take some additional stuff. But, based on these numbers I have very little overhead.

 

I’m still a bit confused, even with what everyone has said, with the calculations and the weights I’ve gotten, my truck should have no problem towing the camper size I originally asked about…I understand peoples comfort levels are different and some people may not “want” to. But from a capability and safety factor, as long as safe driving practices are observed I should be more than good. Now I’m still deciding but I feel this camper is definitely still an option.

 

Take a look at what I just posted. IMO, you can pull this trailer as it is very nearly identical to what I am towing. However, you will need to set your WDH up right and you are very likely maxed. I am.

 

Heres my plan for what it’s worth…I’m going to load up my truck, family, hitch, and our camping bins (things we typically take) fully tank of gas and I’m going to go weigh my truck…then when I buy a camper, I’m going to load the camper, weigh the tongue weight unhooked for the tundra…then load the truck the same as before….Weigh the truck and trailer together and adjust the WD hitch to be sure the front axle weight is the same weight with and with out the camper and my other weights are with in the ranges specs…might be over kill but I kinda enjoy this stuff

 

That is excellent. Keep in mind that you will take less bins with you because it will be in the camper
Keep in mind that you can get 99% of the way there by simply measuring the height of the front fender. This will tell you how much weight is on the front axle. Add weight and it goes down, take it away and it goes up

 

Oh hey I like that! I will measure that as well thanks

 

Hello, How does the Pro do in the sag department with our softer suspension? Airbags needed? I’m looking at a 22ft TT box <26ft overall length <6500# as I want to tow wherever/whenever in my retirement… thx,

 

Sent Lance an email on one of their published hitch weights (maybe the 1985?) as it was like 900# unloaded? I like the lower profile of the Lance but some of their hitch weights look a bit off compared to others around the same size/weight?

 

The PRO does great. The rear suspension is exactly the same as the normal Tundra in the spring department. The shocks are different but that does not affect the sag/squat.
The front suspension is softer and as a result the front end will lift higher when weight is added to the hitch. This is easily combatted by setting up a Weight Distribution hitch properly.
The squat will also look worse on the PRO because the truck is level from the factory.
Yes the truck will look squatted while towing. This doe not bother me because I like the look and the ride when it is not.
Like my previous post stated, I have had more problems with airbags etc than they have eliminated. The ONLY advantage to airbags or Sumo Springs while towing was the look of the truck. Now, if I was hauling a lot of weight in the box an wanted a more level ride, then hands down they would be helpful.

 

Ok. Thanks! I need to print this off and show it to my wife because she wants me to get a 3/4 ton and I told her the only way I’m replacing my Tundra is if we get a fifth wheel… thx again,

 

So there's a 1985 and a 1995 which are the same size but with different layouts.

The 1985 is known as being tongue heavy while the 1995 is just the opposite. Has to do with the location of the axles on the frame.

The 900 lbs. sounds more like a loaded TW though. The Lance trailers have gotten heavier since I bought mine, as they're making some things standard that used to be options.

If you're looking at Lance trailers (I love mine) you should get on LOA and search the threads, there's a BUNCH on tongue weights.

https://community.lanceowners.org/

You can make a free account, or it's only $35 for a lifetime membership that will open it up to all sub-forums. (There's a few that the free membership can't see)

I joined LOA before I even bought the trailer so I could research to make an informed decision on whether or not to buy one.

Much like here there's some pretty smart cookies on just about ANY subject, and everyone is very welcoming.

 

Weigh your truck, then hook it up and weigh it together. The rest is math. I don't want to be the guy in line behind you while you unhitch your trailer on the scale. Spend your time reweighing for WDH adjustment.

As you pointed out, you want the WDH to bring the front axle back to unhitched weight. Setting up a wdh boils down to a few outputs
- The hitch is assembled correctly
- Trailer is level or ever so slightly nose down
- Front Tundra axle is back to unhitched weight.
All the other factors and measurements are noise. Those that tell you the front and the back axles should settle the same are full of garbage. Your front axle should be about the same height measurement - confirm same weight with scale.

I tow a 6800# (weighed when loaded and fresh tank full), 30ft Jayco on 6-8 trips each summer. I need to get it back to the scales as new trailer suspension, axles, and tires have lifted it 2-3" which screws up all WDH geometry. I also flipped my bar brackets on the frame to compensate for the Jayco underslung hitch. Tape measure shows I'm back to unhitched ride height on the front, but the scale is piece of mind.

 

So…still haven’t found the right camper…but was going to pick up and install a set of rear bags just to level things out when towing. I’ve seen lots of suggestions on other forums…any one have experience and or recommendations? I have no issues installing myself just looking for good functionality and ease off install! I understand that bags don’t increase capacity and all that!

 

Don’t forget to account for towing during windy conditions (or other weather conditions) and towing a load up & down hills or mountains. You’ll want control while on the road. & don’t forget that your kids will grow. You can always go with a smaller camper & use a tent for the living room.

 

Take a good look at SumoSprings before you pull the trigger on air bags. They are great for the occasional tow.

 

Awesome I’ll check them out! Thanks

 

Haha great not w I can’t decide if I want sumo springs or air bags hahaha

 

Look at the GrandDesign Imagine 15BH. That unit would pull just perfect for the Tundra

 

My vote is SumoSprings. My TT is 7000# loaded and with Black Sumos and my WDH setup, the rear drops just shy of 2". My truck sits about level when loaded for camping.

 

That’s great info thanks, if you don’t mind me asking what’s to benefit over the bags? Just ease of use?

 

I had bags and went to Sumo Springs. Bag never rode good empty. At least not as they came stock. I had the Ride Rite. Supposedly you can by different cradles that help with this but I never went that route. Sumo Springs are mostly transparent and require nothing more than putting them on the first time. They are there when you need them and when you don't you hardly know they are there. There is a small penalty in empty ride but it is small.
All that to say, I haven't put anything on my PRO. I am OK with the suspension squatting a little when the truck is working. That is why I have suspension.

 

Thanks!! the kids already really enjoy the tent and we set one up for them when we rent RVs The issues with room comes when’s it 100 degrees and they can’t sleep outside or it 40 degrees and same problem. We don’t “need” a lot of room as we don’t spend much time inside the camper but when the weather doesn’t cooperate and we’re all inside it’s nice not to be shoulder to shoulder!

I’ve settled on a max dry weight 5800 and a length of 28 feet or below. I’ll set the truck up as described above. I know I don’t “need” bags or helper springs but I want to offer myself the most comfortable and safest ride I can, within the spec ranges I’ve already decided on. Plus I like buying things for my truck haha. I haven’t even bought the camper yet and I have air pressure sensors, back up and side cameras, slid out supports and towing mirrors hahaha what can I say.

sounds like the sumo springs might be the tickets, but I’m gonna do a bit more research! Thank all the information has been awesome!

Happy to hear anyone else’s experience with the springs or bags or setting up their tundra to tow!

 

No apologies, sorry I didn’t mean it like that! I love all the info that’s the point!

 

I like that you can install them and forget about them. There is no risk of leaking. You don't have to mess with compressed air every time you want to hitch up.

What do you do when you are at the campsite and want to take the family exploring? The unloaded ride with bags is harsh unless you air them down. Then you have to find air to tow home.

As far as a trailer goes. I think bunkhouse models is where it's at for kids.

 

Follow up thought: I believe air bags are better at what they do. Performance wise, they are superior.

However, for me, Sumos are good enough and they have a huge plus in the convenience column.

 

I think I’d bring a little 12 volt compressor with me to adjust when we leave. Or I maybe install one permanently, Grand scheme they aren’t to expensive m. I like the set it and forget it….but I also like to tinker…haha

 

We are actually looking at an image today. I have a 2018 Tundra SR$ TRD 4x4 Package (not pro). https://www.marktugglervcenter.com/...-IBEX-Mark-Tuggle-RV-Center-13696347?ref=list

and after posting that i realized it was an ibex, but i hope my tundra can handle it. 7200 GVWR