Head removal with crashed valves?

2006 4.7l. 200,000km. Recently bought from a mechanic that had done new head gaskets. First long road trip, the engine just quit while running smooth at 2000 rpm. No noise, no vibration. Tried starting but sounded out of time for three chugs and then it locked.

It has a broken intake valve on #6 jambing and the other is bent. I pulled 1/2 a valve seat out of #7

How do I go about removing the heads when I can’t turn them to the safe angle?

 

Do you mean rotating the camshafts to a safe angle so you don't snap them while removing the camshaft caps?

 

Here might be a good video on how to disassemble. I've used his vids to take apart other engines.
https://youtu.be/99hQ8AowTig

 

Thanks. I have watched his videos before. I was so hoping there would be no damage like his video.
I got the cams out slowly without damage. The right head is ruined beyond repair. The left hasn’t come out yet but engine is turning freely now
I will start a thread with photos. Maybe someone can figure out the chain of events because I’m stumped

 

Was there no warranty from the mechanic on his work?

 

No, it was an 'as-is' sale of a beater restoration project. It was his personal truck

 

When a mechanic won't even stand behind his own work. Sad days.

 

He was very young; just starting out. It shows as I tore into it that it was a cheap fix. He reused gaskets, there are washers missing, didn't change out water pump or cam seals while in there (both weeping). He told me that it blew a head gasket while towing too heavy a trailer on a steep grade. There must have been heat damage to the heads that wasnt fixed.

 

Perfect candidate for an LS swap.

 

Never considered that. Is it a thing?
I’ll look into it

 

https://youtu.be/ZIAMFW2F_HI

 

That intake setup is really clever, but I'm still trying to figure out how he managed to have a radiator and intercooler both stuffed into the area below it. I see what I think is the intercooler through the lower damn, not seeing where radiator could be.

 

In case anyone in the future looks here for the answer...

On the locked right side, I had no choice but to unbolt it in the position it was in. I couldn't turn the engine or cams. There was only one set of lobes pressing springs so I figured that couldnt break that shaft. I very slowly released the caps making sure the upward pressure of the engaged spring didnt create a bending moment. Worked fine.

one the other bank, I rolled the cams to a position where the least amount of spring pressure was engaged. Slowly released caps and it worked fine.

I couldnt install the service bolt in the vvt gear as fsm directs. I dont think it mattered?

 

This entire 23 pages thread exists because someone forgot to install the service bolt: https://www.tundras.com/threads/multiple-misfires-after-rebuild-fixed.110071/

However, he was finally able to fix by setting position properly, then installing service bolt, then setting timing as you'll see in the last couple of pages.

 

I had read that service manual instruction 10 times and couldn't wrap my head around the purpose of it. After taking all apart I still don't understand it... If the split gear needed to be preloaded, i could understand the bolt holding it in place. But it seems to say that we want the split gear in its relaxed state with no spring tension against it. The travel between relaxed and full tension is one full tooth. I have a couple weeks to figure it out....

 

Honestly, I don't fully understand it, but there are three guys I can think of who may be able to help explain. @EvilMilkshake @Brynden29 @empty_lord and I'd toss in @dbittle also, I can't recall if this is up his alley or not.

There was another thread where some discussion of it happened but I just yoinked the link to the thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/2006-tundra-sequoia-camshaft-seals.109297/

It was from another member w/the '05-'06 VVTi 2UZ-FE who was working on his leaky cam seals. Something you'll replace I'm sure, or should while in there if you hadn't planned on it.

You'll see in the last 2-3 pages of that other thread I linked, what happens if the timing is correct and you don't use the service bolt - Brynden29's cams ended up rotated and were off by 2 teeth, causing bizarro misfires. Pro mech was unable to figure it out, he finally did.

 

The service bolt is purely to keep the tension on the scissor gear. Without it you will need to re-preload it