Alpine ILX-F511. Game Changer

I think it would be up to you if the tradeoff is worth it. Would you rather have the look of the Tesla, but the problems/bugs that come with it (if any, as I don't have first hand experience with them)? Or would you rather have the Alpine, but with the functionality and reliability of the Alpine?

 

I have the 411 Alpine and replacing with the 511. I trust Alpine will work much better then the Tesla style but if you like screwing with things then go for it.

 

I don’t like the climate controls being part of a radio. I live near the sun and if that Fs up I’ll be pissed

 

That's my fear. I like everything to work as expected.

 

Since the question of SWC came up, here are some additional items you may need for the stereo install (from Crutchfield, based on a 2021 with JBL stereo).


You can source these items from other sites though.

Dash kit - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120998252/Metra-99-8252-Dash-Kit-Silver-Black.html
You could probably use a TO2, but Crutchfield is recommending a TO3. - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794HR...ADS-MRR-or-ADS-MRR2-module-also-required.html
Antenna adapter - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_12040LX11/Metra-40-LX11-Antenna-Adapter.html
Headunit adapter to T harness - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794HUALP1/iDatalink-ACC-HU-ALP1.html
If your truck has USB input - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794USBTO3/iDatalink-UTO3-USB-Adapter.html
SWC RR - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794ADSMRR/iDatalink-Maestro-RR-Interface-Module.html
Something for the boomers, a wireless volume/subwoofer level controller knob - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500RUXH02/Alpine-RUX-H02.html


Good luck with the install and don't lose any plastic clips behind the dash.

 

Let’s not forget the most important piece Crutchfeild says nothing about.

PAC TR-4 Remote Turn-on Module ,...

$18 PAC TR-4 Remote Turn-on Module , Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J22BE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

It disables the parking brake BS so you can actually use the radio when you want to. You are all adults don’t blame me if you crash watching parks and rec while driving

 

Most the install is very easy. I advise setting up and wiring everything inside. This will take a hour or two. Then go after the install in the truck.

 

Poor damn OP on this thread. Hopefully you just buy the BB one and return for $1000 back

 

That wireless button is Bluetooth keep in mind you will have to “wake” it up everytime you get into the truck.

 

Some of us like to work in the garage in 100 degree weather...

 

Get solder seal butt connectors and heat shrink for the install.

 

In AZ that’s cool weather

 

Or have a shop install with part of the $900 you save. Remember you still need $300 in other shit to do the install properly

 

Well this forum got me again…. But I did tell myself if I could get an 10” plus screen with SWC for under $1k I would do it lol. $801.24 all in for:

• Alpine Halo11 iLX-F511 @Bestbuy
• iDatalink Maestro RR Interface Module ADS MRR
• iDatalink HRN-HRR-TO1
• iDatalink ACC-HU-ALP1
  
• $14 Metra AX-TOYUSB-2 2010-Up Toyota USB Adaptor
  Metra AX-TOYUSB-2 USB Port Cable
• Metra 99-8220-HG Dash Kit
  
• Axxess by pass module AX-TRIG1

 

Boom!

 

Considering this is normally a 2k install that’s a hell of a deal

 

Can’t wait for my 2nd gen to get a face lift inside and look similar to this.

 

Yep. Big upgrade. I installed a Kenwood in the 07 FJ it has apple carplay. When I got my tundra back from dealership jail I realized it didn’t have carplay from factory. So this was a big fix to that.

 

Now you sound like my wife: 'I really didn't need this new purse, but it's like 60% off plus an additional 10% right now.... I'm actually saving or even making you money'

 

My wife’s purses are never marked down consider ur self lucky

 

In a hot debate with the basin bois I'm certain that the TR-4 is the wrong module for the job. Alpine has been using double negative pulses on the parking brake input wire (and some models with foot brake positive wire as well) for decades, usually the automated bypass is using TR1 or TR7's as they can perform the necessary on/off pulses to emulate human operation. At least that is what I did for nearly a thousand alpine head unit installs in my previous life.

Can you verify the part used and where you're connecting to?

-JS

 

I have no clue man. I installed what they gave me and it worked. If it doesn’t work for someone else…..well that sucks.

 

I found this on ebay. I can't confirm it works, but it says it does. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2847847471...31ZqsqrR1q&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Buy reputable parts PAC TR1 (might be discontinued in favor of programable TR7), or Metra AX-TRIG1.

 

Thanks for the find. Just ordered one of these.

 

TR1 is gone... so TR7 it is.

Second Bullet - Alpine video bypass.



Also lower cost single purpose unit...

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-125837-Axxess-AX-TRIG1.html



-JS

 

Too late for me. I already ordered the ebay one. I have used his bypasses for Pioneer in the past. Never had an issue. So, we'll see, haha.

 

to be fair probably the same timer and transistor under the heat shrink. so low risk situation. My personal belief is safety 1st, I've seen too many no name electronics come in from customers where the components have failed and cause damage to the aftermarket equipment and/or OEM equipment. This is my most of my "overly-complicated" electrical projects are well isolated from the systems they interconnect with.

just my 2 cents...

 

Im gonna have to look into this. Tacoma has a decade old Pioneer nav unit in it that is starting to reboot increasingly often, locks up if I plug my phone in when it is booting and barely fits in the dash (pops the bezel loose when I hit bumps).

Then the wife is gonna want one for her truck.... Sigh, looks like I might be installing some headunits.