(Should I buy?) 2004 V8 crew cab 187+ trying to join the 1 gen ranks

one more for the road shifty?

Moving my search down south now.. suprising not hitting a lot of viable 4wds down here in FL.

 

Y'all have been getting after it on this thread today but to that point I meant a truck that hasn't had the frame done yet but is eligible. I got mine back with a fresh frame and fluid filmed it immediately and don't drive it in salt ever (so far). If you're the one to get the fresh frame and take care of it then you're set.

 

4WD isn't as popular in the south. Florida is full of 2WD pavement queens.

I was asleep when you posted. Meds had me wonky. That frame looks like it's been coated with Fluid Film or similar. Wouldn't be surprised if it was a southern truck, moved up north, but actually treated with anti-rust treatment so you might find very little rust. You'll know if it has fluid film based on how it feels, I think.

It's at Toyota's recommended change time for timing belt (90k miles). You can probably fudge another 10k miles or even 15k out of it but knowing that's an achilles heel for these engines, I'm not sure if it's fair to pay $8,500 on a truck that's going to need $1.2k average in maintenance in the next 10-15k miles; maybe I'm a stickler. While the miles are high, I get the sneaky suspicion it was hwy miles, seller would need to confirm. Interior and exterior confirm that, although suspicious there's no shots of the front leathers, bet they're ripped on driver side

Truck is very nicely optioned. I think the truck is worth looking at, honestly. I'd prefer that number was closer to $8k (based on options, V8, 4WD, condition) and would ask the seller to meet me in the middle on the soon-to-be-due timing belt if you feel it runs and drives well, "middle" being somewhere between $500-$700 from each of you, i.e. target price $7800-8000. But that's only if it runs and drives well, and doesn't have clear signs of rust everywhere.

Obviously, if the cap came with it, it may be worth asking price if in great shape. Is it local to you?

 

Its effectively like an hour away . Yeah I was thinking about checking it out, and if everything checks out based on your teachings , I was gonna suggest dropping it down to 7900 or 8000 to split the timing kit difference. If he doesn't budge on that, I was gonna counter with that being more of a reason to let me get a PPI done to know exactly what would cost me in repairs in the following year.



I did find this one overnight, around the same mileage, its also pretty close, and honestly, im getting some good vibes from it. Fresh frame (wow night and day, i see now) on it and looks like a typically family run vehicle that hasnt been pushed to its limits. I would have to carfax, but I dont see any immediate signs of damage or body work needed, and i can't tell if the paint in the hood/front is faded or if thats just the silver reflecting. Engine bay looks alright, better than I expected considering the frame is prob the newest thing on it.

Honestly that bothers me until i know more is that its 6 years older and the forefront of the 1 gen (idk is 2000 considered a good model or is it worth the 6 years in improvements for the 2006. Doesn't usually the first ones come with a bunch of issues that get fixed?) and obviously the damn tape on the steering wheel lol... hopefully its a driving aid and if not, id have to add one to my amazonn list. Obviously significantly cheaper then my other choices.

Right now while I deepen my search, these two seem like the best in my neck of the woods.

 

I mean ... that one in W.DC ... if in good shape is a pretty solid deal, it's a base truck, with about the same mileage, same drivetrain. It's almost emissions exempt in my state (25 years). Frame replacements are like $2k-$3k on average for guys on here, out of pocket, and if that's already done ...

There's definitely cosmetic stuff to be done with that W.DC truck, not just replacing the steering wheel, the missing HAZARD light button (it's a snap-on affair), the window trim that's flaking off to chrome at the bottom of the front door windows. I'm sure you'll find other stuff too. Whoever posted that, English isn't their first language, given the grammatical choices, I'm guessing Spanish is their primary. A lot of the Latin hombres in my area love the AC trucks for work trucks, but that doesn't look like it's seen much work, so ... who knows!

Both look like solid options though.

I really do wish there was an easy way to get the aluminum back to shiny in the engine bay on these things without a bunch of toil and pain.

 

Just called the D.C guy and apparently he’s basically like a independent small car dealer guy, got it from auction so def not a family situation like I thought.. not a red flag but putting on my tin foil hat. Sending me more pics and screenshots of the carfax.. idk if it’s the language barrier but it seems like when I probed about the frame replacement it wouldn’t show on the carfax, which I think is weird cause if it was done by Toyota wouldn’t it def show up???

saying brake lines and a whole bunch of stuff are new and that I’d see how good condition it is in person and that it’s in excellent shape (lol well see)

 

I've only seen frame replacements show up as a 'service campaign' in the Toyota Owner's website. But it looks like that frame is definitely new, and they definitely did them primarily on the first couple of years of manuf'er.

I wouldn't be too scared of the auction thing. If he'll give you the VIN, may be worth running. I'd just say though, what you're seeing between these last two trucks is really the difference $2,500 - $3,000 makes. Condition between the two is significantly different. I don't see you putting a ton of cosmetic work into the DC and it's pretty loaded on options, and you can talk to the owner that's had it the last 90k miles. The AC on the other hand, no real history, less options, less cab space, and no real history, but brand spankin' new frame, which is really the biggest killer of these trucks.

Tough call IMHO, but there's a distinction to be made. If I wanted a temporary fill-in, and to spend less (knowing I'm probably dropping another $1k-2k into it anyway), I'd maybe lean toward the AC in W.DC, but I'm partial to AC. If I wanted a vehicle I could be happy in today, and stick my family in comfortably, I'd definitely go with the DC in NJ.

 

hes sending me a ton of pictures rn, standby for the megaload lol

 

See pics below. Idk how to get these carfax screenshots to upload in a way where its consise and in order, but other than standard maintence stuff you see with these things, I included what stands out. Obviously its clear its been in a accident whiich carfax states "minor" which idk what that would mean. But no airbags are reported deployed which is good, and it seems like all necesssary bodywork for it has been done. Still... not good to see.

Maybe it would help if i nudge him to also split the difference for a new timing belt installation, and obvious no brainer PPI for this one. Yeah, i think in the long run saving a couple grand is not the end all, but in this economy a couple thousand go a long way.. Like so if this frame is like 9/10 on the rust factor scale, what would you compare it to on the double cab one at first glance? Would I be fine in just fluid filming or surface shielding the existing frame and go from there, or would i need to strip it and start the protective process from scratch?

 

It's tough to say. I still think the DC in NJ is the better buy personally.

One big thing I notice on the AC in W.DC, other than corrosion on everything aluminum in the engine bay (which isn't a huge deal)... you're probably going to need to eventually fork out for a new rear axle housing (or clean house and/or assembly from a JY). They don't replace it during frame swap. I'm seeing seepage, it could just be that there's enough superficial rust on the housing that the crush washer (I'm pretty sure the top fill plug uses a crush) isn't seating and it's leaking out. You may just be able to hit the whole thing with a wire wheel and rattle can w/Rustoleum satin finish black.

Is the DC in NJ guy gonna shoot you some frame pics?

 

Lol in true NJ fashion, hes taking his time on responding and reading chats.

..Or prob just fb marketplace in general. Ill post any pics/reports once I get them.

I do like the DC in NJ too, but just asking again, is the amount of rust present on the DC something where I can just keep it protected and go from there, or does it need any shopwork done to it to make it last until my future children need it. Basically from what you said, i think the DC will be my main choice if the two frames are within ballpark range of each other in terms of years servicable.

 

I'm saying, I'd have a hard time saying for sure. I'd want to see a pic of the backside of the rear axle housing. I'd want to see pics of where the spare tire X-crossmember meet the frame, and some shots taken around the leaf spring mounts and a couple of long cab mount shots. Doesn't need to shoot each one individually. I think this should give you an idea on the frame.

You see how eaten up the spare tire is on the AC? I'm sure that's probably not the original spare, and it'll give you an idea of how eaten up the frame probably was.

 

I think it just needs the washer, IMHO

 

Gotcha makes sense, yeah I'll prob request NJ guy to do just that and get me those juicy pics. I'll put the brakes on the WD.C until I know more about the DC one.

Side note. I feel like at this point whichever one I find im entitled to write "shifty" on the title xD, lol in his name we trust.

 

I like the DC truck, however...

1. I hope you've got lot's of time on your hands because you'll always be maintaining/reconditioning something, and
2. I'd like it a lot better if it were under $5K

 

Don't gimme that credit, you don't want my nickname on your stuff. Stamp it with your own seal of approval!

 

3: it's in Washington DC.

 

You might to drive and see @shifty` and have him bless your truck for you, get an autograph or something attached to the frame for safekeeping....
What else am I missing?

 

Custom emblems?


shifty' edition

 

So am I!

 

Lol wanna go take a peek for all of us?

I’m in agreement of a “shifty approved” sticker to slap on the frame

 

~ 30 miles each way from me, but if it becomes your final choice I may be able to help you out. It all depends on when...

 

Here you go, @atomicnugget : https://www.tundras.com/threads/1-18-per-mile.128025/

 

I'll keep you in mind if I need the reinforcements, thanks Lt.

 

LOL! and I thought 67k was a low mileage unicorn.. what did the guy do hide it in an ice cave somewhere?
Even if I were to consider that one, it is above my price budget for my liking, plus, I'm not trying to be a forum sniper and steal a deal from people actually considering them.

 

I generally would look for a low-mileage car if it is either A) a 3-5 year old car, max 7 years or B) rare and/or luxury car.
Otherwise, I would hope they get driven, can fall below the national average mileage, but 20K miles for a 20 year truck is just too little, wasted away for whatever the reason is.

 

Or this guy is pretty lucky, The grandpa is low-key the predecessor of all of us and knew what he had and kept it pristine in his garage like a pokemon card or a ferrari knowing there would be forums about this legendary vehicle 20 years in the future, to pass it on to his grandson like any man should, only to find out that he wants a tacoma instead.

 

shhh.... you know too much!

 

I've got the stickers ready to go!

 

You poor, poor soul.