(Should I buy?) 2004 V8 crew cab 187+ trying to join the 1 gen ranks

LOL, HAI SENSEI!!



yea, and im pretty set on a truck bed but ill keep that in mind.

 

I havent really looked into the ones with mid 200K mileage as much, idk why, just seems that much higher

 

IMHO, you may already have seen this, but 125k-175k is honestly the break-in period for the 1st Gens. I mean, I'd buy anything in the 75k-100k range, even with all the issues with mine buying in 2018-2019(ish, I forget) at 62k-63k miles.

I used Cars.com, TrueCar, CarGuru, and at least one other site. Setup automated search alerts on 1st gens that were V8 and anything from 0-190k miles. Every day I'd wake up to new trucks in my inbox, and I further refined the searches based on things showing up. What I'll say is, sometimes they don't have pics or include the # of doors or tell you what package it is. Sometimes you need to run the VIN yourself to find out details (free check here that's sometimes helpful to see registration/ownership states, sometimes). If you're on the Toyota Owners website already, if you can get VIN, you can plug it in there and look up the build sheet, although sometimes the interior/seating info isn't correct. There's a lot of ways to research it.

I had a pretty strict search. V8. 4WD. Access Cab only. 0-190k miles. Being sold within 150 miles, that's the farthest I was willing to drive for a vehicle, but no reason you couldn't go 500 miles, or within X miles of Y zip code, I guess.

But patience was really the key.

 

Truth. Go to where they don’t rust; they are probably cheaper there, too, because there are probably more of them around, because they don’t die from rusting away like they do in the rust belt states. A thousand bucks in plane ticket, gas, hotels and meals is easily the least expensive way to get a solid truck.

 

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/1926848b-9bea-4a2a-bd4c-4150c4ef6f08/?aff=atempest&CMP=atempest

Im liking this one, but hmm its based from iowa, so its pink on the rust map from earlier... why cant dealers just be honest and post undercarrage pictures arghh..

Edit> actually it looks like it made its start in KY. good signs?

 

That's because the dealers don't want to miss out on a chance for a sale. And a lot of times you gotta look closely at those pics if taken, because the ones who DO know, are usually slapping lipstick on a pig with paint and undercoatings. If you see black overspray on anything under the truck, run. They're trying to hide shit.

 

Here it is from the beginning, but not a lot of the trucks that I stalk are actually for sale...

 

Yeah I heard about the break in period and the black overspray. def keeping a eye out for that along with a mechanic cheking the lower ball joints, timing belt, etc.

 

I was just recently on the hunt here in Texas for my first gen. Not many rust issues on native trucks here, but I still had to watch close for months and jump on a 5 hour road trip at short notice to get mine. I live in the Dallas metroplex and the good options were few and far between. Most of the good ones I saw pop up were in Arkansas, Oklahoma, and San Antonio - all of which are a 4-5 hour drive for me. But once I got it, I was glad I waited for the right one. Unfortunately, a road trip may be in the cards for you if you want rust free. Seems like the southeast/south central us of a is the sweet spot for rust and cost.

 

It's a pain in the ass to determine for sure a truck is eligible but if you can find the right 00-02 access cab it is still eligible for the frame recall. My KY truck was rusty but I got a brand new frame under it in 21 and it doesn't have a spec of rust on it. You just have to do some research to figure out if it's on the list.

 

But I'd add to this also, you're still going to have rusty shit and rusty fasteners and rust-through on certain things. @Bmktw2 can probably speak more to that than anyone.

 

Looks like a basket case. I wouldn't pay more than $3,500 for it

 

Don't mean to be rude about it but with so many other options it just is what it is.

 

no worries! plus blunt honesty is rare to find nowadays in a world full of liars and hypocrisy..

I’ve also decided not to go any further in buying this one and have started to look around for better options.

I’m wondering too what the upper limit on what I should spent on these things should be, I see some examples of everything perfect (low mileage, early years in TX, not too far away, and no immediate warning signs), but it seems overpriced, like 5K more than it’s competitors.

Wait for better price, or worth it in the long run?

Also looks like it’s due for a timing belt is the one thing, so maybe I could argue for a lower price? Prob not in this market

 

I know @shifty` will comment on the above, but I would not be too focused on "low mileage" truck(s)
You are looking at a possible 20 year old truck, low mileage would mean it sat there for a prolong time, not used, and even in the Southern weather, heat is always a killer for all things plastic/rubber.
Ideally, if first gen is a must, look at something around 100K miles, that should indicate the truck has been used, and of course, all other rust/TB//WP issues apply also.

 

Yeah I keep reminding myself that haha it’s hard when I been trained to get the newest and nicest thing out there

was just curious cause I saw a 06 70k 1 owner from mostly OH with very little rust being sold at a premium and didn’t know if that was a unicorn must buy for todays standards.

You made a good point about it standing idle which may change my view on a lot if these

*tips hat in gratitude

 

Trust me, a lot of people are in the same boat, see a "look nice" car/truck, old but super low mileage and it is easy to go nuts over how "low miles" it is....
I mean, some Ferrari get maybe 200 miles a year if that, but they change oil and stuff on the clock and is in tip-top shape because what it is worth....
Now, Tundra is/was a work truck, so pristine up-keep is gonna be, hard.....
Not saying impossible, but hard. Besides, what's a truck if it doesn't get used? I know granpa don't drive much but if the truck hasn't moved its wheels since 2003 then I would pass on that too....
Barn finds are money pit to get it back to running conditions most of the time, and that is even with most capable wrench hands. I am not....

 

Basically, he doesn't want to be me. Or maybe he's a masochist and does wanna be me, I dunno. i.e. Find truck from someone who isn't a grandpa, but first 50k-55k miles are this bank exec dude driving short trips to his small-town bank in the morning, and back home at night, using it as a "company vehicle". 5 days a week.

I legitimately think 2nd owner who had it before me for 7k-10k miles was probably sick and tired of having it in the shop for work, stuff that dried out. Cam seals leaking. Valve covers leaking. Bushings dry-rotted. Lots of cake and varnish on the heads from the short-trip driving. I can tell someone was in the valve covers, and in the rear brakes too.

It really isn't worth it. I mean, the peace of mind of knowing there weren't "a lot of cooks in the kitchen" with the truck, and I can tell it was optioned enough I didn't hafta lookout for electrical hackery (choppy trailer wiring, dicked up stereo wiring, etc.) was comforting, but in hindsight, I'd have rather repaired wiring hacks than, for example, replace cam seals or even the valve cover gaskets. It wasn't a fun job.

I'm just eternally grateful the 4WD was working. Holy crap if you confirm anything is working, make sure it shifts (at least) into 4HI without flashing incessantly.

 

To piggy-back on @shifty`, you also mentioned you are automotive white belt, I am taking a stab at it, most of your work is gonna get done by the shop/someone other than you, that means more money for labor on top of parts.
Honestly, I would just take time to find the good fit, or (i know Shifty will hate me for saying this) get a 2nd gen with earlier years that might be in better shape and roll with it, but that's me....

 

Lol thank you for your sacrifice in saying that about the second gen I feel like you might get crucified saying that in these neck of the woods on the tundra forums, jk.

No I’m unfortunately a pretty regretful guy, and I know driving around in a second gen I’d always wish I found a 1 gen just based on everything I’ve learned so far.

I feel like its a sole duty for all grandpas in the word to announce when they have trucks/cars available, just to make the world a little bit simpler (perfect app idea for the next billionaire)

Any problem in posting some potential candidates for scrutiny or is that deserving of a seperate post section?

 

I don't disagree, the earlier 2nd gens aren't bad at all. Some known small issues but reliable.

Honestly, I think the one thing the 2nd gen can't fulfill is size. Let's face it: The 1st gen is basically Tacoma-sized with a V8. From a time before having hood bulge somehow meant you had a bigger dick or something. A time before the grille of your truck wasn't taller than your tailgate. 2.5 gen or turd gen? I wouldn't think of it. But I don't have a lot of disrespect for early 2nd gen owners. Even if my 2UZ V8 is more reliable.

 

IIRC, I think that's what we did with one of the Texas fellas that may've replied in this thread already.

 

I will show myself out to next door forum......lol
But yea, I think you nailed your own prediction, then all I can say is, wait for the right truck. Rushing it or 2nd gen ain't gonna cut it and you will be back to square one sooner than jack rabbit and wasting more money in the process.... wish you best of luck finding the truck.

 

https://dotcomauto.net/vdp/20201228...Access-Cab-4WD-for-sale-in-Chantilly-VA-20152

https://dotcomauto.net/vdp/19978106...Double-Cab-4WD-for-sale-in-Chantilly-VA-20152

https://lititzmotorcar.com/inventory/2004-toyota-tundra-double-cab-sr5/

Out of these three, which one seems like the best option? Each of the links have a carfax available.

All three seem like their due soon for timing belt kit which I could maybe argue for a drop in price by a grand if they are nice enough $$.

waiting on the dealership (prob never) to send pics of the undercarriage back which I know trumps any other considerations, but in the meanwhile…

I know there’s a ton more better fish in the sea, just trying to sort my options here before moving on to the upper 200k bracket in my search.

 

I will let expert weight in on that.
But dang.... 8-track player.... gotta miss that from my dad's old Renault 5.....

 

Lol yeah I can’t wait to blow some of these gen z kids minds with my awesome technology and non touch screen toggles/switches

 

Nah, you guys are always welcome here. Just don't stir the pot with any of that "BUT MAH 5.7!"

 

This is interesting because I see almost ZERO rust anywhere under the hood, normally in salty states you'll see rust everywhere - on all the hose clamps, every exposed bolt head, etc. There are some on the latches and surface rust on the ground bits, but ... If it's close to you, I'd check it out, or ask for frame pics. The ~3 month owner from Minnesota is a bit concerning - why so short? Was it a dealer that had it, or a private buyer? It looks like it bounced a lot with dealers/auctions the last year or two. Maybe it does have something seriously wrong... I'd want to see the frame.

Something hinky af about that one brake line routing between the MC and ABS squid. Definitely had some brake issues; I see under the MC, the engine bay sheet metal is rusted out. Brake fluid is pretty corrosive. Obviously, this truck had (and may still have) brake issues. I'd want to see the frame

Frame has been touched up. Significantly. Bail.

I mean, I guess out of the 3, I'd check the 1st one first? But it's an AC truck, which doesn't fit the family motif you described.

 

Man y’all opinions are gold, I feel like y’all should get paid for this…..

yeah I was mostly interested in the black one out of all. Interesting on the rust comment, I agree that a undercarriage pic will tell the full picture.

Id have to double check, hard to multitask on my phone, but I think that was the one that had two timing belt changes in like a span of 20k miles? Kinda made no sense to me unless the shop replaced just the belt and did the rest of the kit later that got labeled wrong.

luckily (jk) I don’t have kids yet, but we got a suv on standby when the time comes. While I prefer DC I’m also fine with a AC, was just trying to check all boxes if possible.

Ill post the underside pics when I get them, I’ll hassle them again for them, and have a feeling that will make or break this one

 

You owe @shifty` a couple of rounds if you ever meet him, haha....
On the family part, and to back up on you saying you will regret if you don't, I would say try DC than AC as that may fit the family better....